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Throttle Cable Assy Install

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Mauidan

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The bad news: my 2009 Vmax was stolen last night.
The good news: I got it back today. (Still feel sick)

Can you tell me what’s all involved in replacing the throttle cable Assy/grips etc? (see pics)

How I found it..................

. Vmax recovery pic4.jpg

The way it was with end bar mirror

Vmax Recovery Pic Mirror.jpg

They also cut these wires, I have not identified it yet, they seem to run up to speedo cluster.
Do you know it?

Vmax recovery pic2.jpg

Vmax Recovery pic1 arrow.jpg
 
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Fire-medic

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I'm glad you recovered the bike. Did you find it down the block, after they butchered it and couldn't make it start? Amateurs. Pros would have winched it into a cargo van and been gone with it in less-than a minute, never to-be seen again. can't help with the wiring, why don't you look at the wire schematic in the factory manual you can find on-here, and determine what they service?
 

Mauidan

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Thanks man, so many questions:
I recovered it 50 yards from my place, I actually was making a police report when I saw it down the street!
Amateur's for sure. But, how did they know to bring the right size wrench and why did they remove the cable assy, and then cut it!
They took the grip and cable and mirror with them too, what the... I cant make any sense out of it. I do have night vision security footage.
 

Mauidan

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Thanks for the manual..
Tweakers, I think they pulled the loom thinking in was ignition, the wires were twisted together.
 

Fire-medic

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I had a co-worker on a construction crew who wired a ballast (he was the lead electrician) to his dirtbike, which he kept in a carport. At late night, he heard a crash and came out of the house to find a would-be thief out-cold lying next-to the bike. Boobytraps are very-illegal.

Here's another similar story, except this burglar died, no-charges per the grand jury. This is a famous case.

It had it-all, a FL State Attorney who later became the US Attorney General who ruled in many famous cases, a flamboyant legal defense attorney who was successful for defending the Miami shop owner who made the electrocution trap, and the weary shop-owner, a Vietnam veteran who had been burglarized so-many times, he decided to electrocute the next thief. Well, that worked, that-time.
 

one2dmax

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Remove the seat (two bolts at the rear when you open up the flip)
Remove the key
Remove the bolt holding the cluster cover aluminum part
Remove the faux cover (2 bolts in the key mount, 2 bolts in the cluster, 2 bolts up front facing forwardish, 1 bolt each side at the rear sides)
Remove the scoops (3 bolts each)
Pop the CDI box loose
Remove the two bolts holding the battery top cover and let that be loose and moveable
Remove the upper airbox assembly/filter
Remove the lower airbox assembly (2 bolts by each stack which will stay trapped in place - also pull the air fitting assembly from the left rear)

That gets you where you can access the connectors for the speedo/tach cluster as well as the throttle cables.
You have to take off the entire headlight assembly, lower support, side supports to get to the crown and gauge cluster. It runs through the crown and has multiple wire connections.
The connection doesn't come off easily from the tach assembly so if you can splice and repair your wiring that would be a lot easier then swapping out the harness (I think I have a good used Harness if you want one). I actually haven't removed the harness from the old gauge and think it would require removal of each pin separately.

Probably missed some steps but that should give you the jist of what's going on.
 

Mauidan

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Yeah, looks like I have my work cut out for me.
Thanks for taking the time to go through all that.

I appreciate the harness offer one2dmax, I might take you up on it. Splicing if at all possible is my thought.

I don't see the other end of the cut loom.
Check out this white connector, to me, it has the earmark of being freshly disconnected (no dirt on it).

If you have the loom handy, would you mind trying to identify this wire and that connection?
Thoughts?

Vmax recovery wire cut2.jpg

White connector

Vmax recovery wire.jpg

cut close up.jpg
Cut wire goes into grey plastic housing

Cut wires.jpg

3 wires in loom, they were twisted together. (guessing the tweaker thought it was the ignition)

speedo.jpg

Looks like all is firing. Cant check headlight (engine need to fire) but running light in the headlight assy also works.
 

Mauidan

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Remove the seat (two bolts at the rear when you open up the flip)
Remove the key
Remove the bolt holding the cluster cover aluminum part
Remove the faux cover (2 bolts in the key mount, 2 bolts in the cluster, 2 bolts up front facing forwardish, 1 bolt each side at the rear sides)
Remove the scoops (3 bolts each)
Pop the CDI box loose
Remove the two bolts holding the battery top cover and let that be loose and moveable
Remove the upper airbox assembly/filter
Remove the lower airbox assembly (2 bolts by each stack which will stay trapped in place - also pull the air fitting assembly from the left rear)

That gets you where you can access the connectors for the speedo/tach cluster as well as the throttle cables.
You have to take off the entire headlight assembly, lower support, side supports to get to the crown and gauge cluster. It runs through the crown and has multiple wire connections.
The connection doesn't come off easily from the tach assembly so if you can splice and repair your wiring that would be a lot easier then swapping out the harness (I think I have a good used Harness if you want one). I actually haven't removed the harness from the old gauge and think it would require removal of each pin separately.

Probably missed some steps but that should give you the jist of what's going on.
I removed headlight hardware and traced up to the Meter Control switch. The new switch should be wired with the male coupler, that's the good news, getting to the mounting screws looks like a bear!!
Meter cut.jpg

Merter Control Switch.jpg
 

one2dmax

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I MAY have one of those as well. Still probably take the same disassembly to get it off (except the headlight stuff should be able to stay on)
 

Mauidan

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I MAY have one of those as well. Still probably take the same disassembly to get it off (except the headlight stuff should be able to stay on)
Started Disassembly. I had just painted the scoops 2 months ago. But, have never removed this many components. I was going to price out and check availability on parts. Are you able to check for the meter switch, and do you possibly have the throttle cable?
 

Mauidan

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I MAY have one of those as well. Still probably take the same disassembly to get it off (except the headlight stuff should be able to stay on)
Update: I reconnected the meter control gauges this morn. Ordering the parts today for the throttle cable, etc.

Found a new throttle cable on Ebay!! Working on other Japan BO parts..
 
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Pighuntingpuppy

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Sorry to hear your bike got ripped off but happy you got it back. I have GPS locator units in my vehicles now. One stolen truck that I didnt get back made me consider them. Now they are stolen, dont gotta worry about the cops. No booby traps either. I show up and blow the person who has my property, away. I get my property and a thief gets what they deserve. And if nothing but a bullet of mine is there....there is practically 0 chance of connection to me to a murder. But thats me. I dont trust the justice system to do the right thing. Especially in my state. They turn em out again and again.

You will be riding again. Tons of help here and wiring splicing is fairly straight forward. Getting that wire may require contortionist acts.....but match color to color and its all down hill from there.
 

Mauidan

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Sorry to hear your bike got ripped off but happy you got it back. I have GPS locator units in my vehicles now. One stolen truck that I didnt get back made me consider them. Now they are stolen, dont gotta worry about the cops. No booby traps either. I show up and blow the person who has my property, away. I get my property and a thief gets what they deserve. And if nothing but a bullet of mine is there....there is practically 0 chance of connection to me to a murder. But thats me. I dont trust the justice system to do the right thing. Especially in my state. They turn em out again and again.

You will be riding again. Tons of help here and wiring splicing is fairly straight forward. Getting that wire may require contortionist acts.....but match color to color and its all down hill from there.
I hear ya, all good points.. I looked at trackers for the first time yesterday, I see they require a subscription (the ones I checked out anyways), what a racket they got going there! I successfully spliced the meter loom today. Found throttle cable on Ebay.. Thanks bro..
 
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Itgoes

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Sorry to hear your bike got ripped off but happy you got it back. I have GPS locator units in my vehicles now. One stolen truck that I didnt get back made me consider them. Now they are stolen, dont gotta worry about the cops. No booby traps either. I show up and blow the person who has my property, away. I get my property and a thief gets what they deserve. And if nothing but a bullet of mine is there....there is practically 0 chance of connection to me to a murder. But thats me. I dont trust the justice system to do the right thing. Especially in my state. They turn em out again and again.

You will be riding again. Tons of help here and wiring splicing is fairly straight forward. Getting that wire may require contortionist acts.....but match color to color and its all down hill from there.
I've got insurance on all my stuff. Saves me the trouble of having to murder somebody.
 

Pighuntingpuppy

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I hear ya, all good points.. I looked at trackers for the first time yesterday, I see they require a subscription (the ones I checked out anyways), what a racket they got going there! I successfully spliced the meter loom today. Found throttle cable on Ebay.. Thanks bro..
I dont have no stake in any company, but the company I use is GPS and Track. The one for my truck is a unit that cost $120 and came with a 2 year subscription included. After the 2 years, I can either purchase another unit or pay $20 for another 2 years.


This is the unit I have in my truck. They have smaller units, battery only units, hardwired units and so on. A flavor for almost any need. Again, I have no stake in this company. I, like you couldnt justify paying money per month for a cheap GPS unit. I find the $120 unit I have reasonable in price and service.

Included in the kit, they give you a link to set up your unit on their site. Then you can download an app to your phone where you can track and disable your vehicle. It will also send alerts to your phone if there is tampering going on, battery voltage drops or if its banged too hard. These are part of their package and I have not spent a dime over the initial cost of the unit.
Screenshot_20201117-111023.png

This is the app for my truck. You can look at your locations over the last 40 days and see how predictable you really are. Now this unit does not do live tracking. But for a bit more, you can get that particular unit if you wish. I went this route cause I just need to know where the truck ended up. And with a starter/ignition disable, its all I really need at the moment. Any other questions, just ask. I have had the unit nearly a year now and it hasnt adversely affected my vehicle.

As for the ones stating its not worth the trouble to shoot them....well....a thief in my opinion deserves no less. Especially since most courts will turn them back out in no time. My state is plagued with car thefts. And the justice system will release them shortly after booking cause they dont deem it a "violent" crime. I run with the mindset of shooting horse thieves. But thats just me and I am not offering legal advice, LOL.
 

Mauidan

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Remove the seat (two bolts at the rear when you open up the flip)
Remove the key
Remove the bolt holding the cluster cover aluminum part
Remove the faux cover (2 bolts in the key mount, 2 bolts in the cluster, 2 bolts up front facing forwardish, 1 bolt each side at the rear sides)
Remove the scoops (3 bolts each)
Pop the CDI box loose
Remove the two bolts holding the battery top cover and let that be loose and moveable
Remove the upper airbox assembly/filter
Remove the lower airbox assembly (2 bolts by each stack which will stay trapped in place - also pull the air fitting assembly from the left rear)

That gets you where you can access the connectors for the speedo/tach cluster as well as the throttle cables.
You have to take off the entire headlight assembly, lower support, side supports to get to the crown and gauge cluster. It runs through the crown and has multiple wire connections.
The connection doesn't come off easily from the tach assembly so if you can splice and repair your wiring that would be a lot easier then swapping out the harness (I think I have a good used Harness if you want one). I actually haven't removed the harness from the old gauge and think it would require removal of each pin separately.

Probably missed some steps but that should give you the jist of what's going on.
Hey Sean, do I Lube the Throttle cable?
 

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