Was using my max every week last fall and it seemed to run fine. Had some tire problems this year so just got to put some miles on it besides warming it up and going around the block. Went for a 20 mile ride last week for the first time this year coming back at 75 mph on interstate all good. By the time I got to my house the overflow tank was bubbling like super hot. Has never done this before. I took cooling system all apart and everything is nice. Coolant is good, Thermostat opens, Why would it get so hot? Has anyone tried one of these 150 degree thermostats? It's summer and hot days but it never did this before.
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The Beekeeper
Well-Known Member
I would swap out the T-stat anyway, also you could have a weak pressure cap on the cooling system, where was your temp guage running?.............Partially plugged radiator?........................Keep us informed.......................Tom.
Radiator lets full garden hose run thru easily. It doesn't seem clogged at all. Haven't thought about cap yet. It's such a pain taking apart that I am going to try the cooler thermostat on e-bay. Might do cap also. Thanks
alorio1
Well-Known Member
I removed my thermostat 25 yrs ago when my Vmax was new with no ill effects...........
VMike
Well-Known Member
I'm still learning about the V Max engine but I've seen coolant reservoirs and radiators on cars do this when a head gasket goes bad.Not sure about config of the water jacket on a Max engine and a lot of the time it will show up as emulsified oil in the crank case. Hopefully not that but just throwing it out. Keep us posted on the out come please and good luck.
Mike
Mike
I switched to the lower temp Sentra fan sensor about a month ago. Temps were over 100degrees here this week, and my temp gauge never made it past the dot...all this in stop and go traffic during the hottest part of the day. Smartest $25 I've spent.
I like the Sentra tip. Also, the info to do the cap & thermostat is good advice since you found no restriction w/a garden hose thru it. The impeller for the water pump was OK?
If the system won't pressurize that could cause an increase in temp righht there. Cap! If the thermostat won't open, higher temps would also result. I suppose a removal of it could eliminate that as a possibility, I would also look at the hoses if you have an older bike, they may be ready for replacement. They can collapse & restrict flow if they are shot.
If the system won't pressurize that could cause an increase in temp righht there. Cap! If the thermostat won't open, higher temps would also result. I suppose a removal of it could eliminate that as a possibility, I would also look at the hoses if you have an older bike, they may be ready for replacement. They can collapse & restrict flow if they are shot.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
Start with the simplest and cheapest....replace the rad cap or get it tested. If the spring is weak it'll "pop" too easily and blow everything into the puke tank.
Otherwise, a gushing overflowing puke tank is usually a sign of a bad head gasket, the cylinder compression leaks into the coolant jackets and massively over-pressurizes the system, popping the cap and blowing coolant everywhere.
Was the temp gauge running hot when this happened?
You can put in a lower temp fan switch, or just wire a switch to the stock connector, have it when the switch closes it just shorts the two wires together. Just flip the switch whenever you get in traffic.
Otherwise, a gushing overflowing puke tank is usually a sign of a bad head gasket, the cylinder compression leaks into the coolant jackets and massively over-pressurizes the system, popping the cap and blowing coolant everywhere.
Was the temp gauge running hot when this happened?
You can put in a lower temp fan switch, or just wire a switch to the stock connector, have it when the switch closes it just shorts the two wires together. Just flip the switch whenever you get in traffic.
I did that w/my FZR1000 (just wire a switch to the stock connector, have it when the switch closes it just shorts the two wires together). It works fine, I used an illuminated switch in my line of sight so I can be aware it's on.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
Someone correct me if I am wrong please, but if the coolant drain plug located by the oil filter is turned to the wrong position you will not have flow to radiator, and if I am right this could be something to check.
Boy, that's one I haven't heard before, gonna check my Yamaha factory service manual for that one when I get home!
I do have a switch on my fan. Haven't drained oil yet, that is next step,but coolant didn't have any oil in it. Certainly hoping it's not a headgasket or I ride my FZ1 for the rest of the year. Will do the easiest things first- and hard things over the winter. Thanks to all- will proceed as soon as possible and let you know.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
My switch is on the left side plastic frame cover, and I often forget it's on until I catch a glimpse of the switch miles later still in the on position. I should get a 12v led and put it in the "blank" indicator slot in the dash for "fan on".
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
I also removed the TStat, 75,000 miles ago with no problems.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
When I remove my radiator cap , I see coolant flowing even at idle. I checked with some else about the coolant drain cock position and he also said if it is in the wrong position coolant will not flow thru the system.
Joe could be right,your coolant draincock could be in the wrong position.It should be in the off
position.U mite want to check it.........Rusty:biglaugh:
johnpclynch
Well-Known Member
I don't think that's true, the valve below the radiator is only used when draining the rad (to get all the coolant out) the main hose runs out above that straight to the thermostat valve
Full description of what the valve does here:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=999
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Also check your draincock valve position under the radiator. If it is in the "Drain" position you will overheat regardless of thermostat, fan, waterpump et al working. Before you begin to think head gasket look at the simple things like folks said. Also make sure your fan is turning on, I usually jumper the fan temp sensor connector to hotwire the fan. If it turns on the fan is good. You can check the sensor by putting it in a pot of boiling water and check the continuity. If it indicates an open (infinite resistance) your fan temp sensor is shot, this happened to a buddy of mine very recently, if it shows little to no resistance it is good. Same test can be done with the thermostat, but the cost of a replacement is so minimal it is just as easy to replace it.
