Too Hot?

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redriderok

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Bought my first vmax a few weeks ago and have been commuting 30miles to work each way. I have been keeping an eye on the temp, because the first day I bought it, the temp needle ran right up to red and scared the crap out of me. The PO said he had just flushed the radiator and filled it with Cool Ice or some such stuff. He also mentioned installing a cooler thermostat, which I think he meant thermo switch, which I have since confirmed. This last week in OKlahoma it has been almost 100. I snapped a shot of my temp gauge after riding home from work, no stop & go, all highway running 70mph.
2696142115
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The needle stayed at this position for about the last 5 miles and never fully went into the red.
Is this too hot? In the last few weeks I've replaced the clutch, topped of the coolant resevoir which was almost empty, and changed the oil. What can I check to make sure the cooling system is in order?
 
The fans come on pretty early, but like I said it's all easy highway riding. I actually pulled over the other day to get gas and let it cool off. Today I decided to wait it out and see if the needle would actually sweep completely into the red. Never actually was in the red but pretty close. I'm thinking maybe the radiator needs to be vatted or the water pump maybe on it's last legs... Any ideas?
 
You have either an air bubble or maybe the dump valve has not been turned back to it's "run" spot. I would also suspect a bad thermostat.

It shouldn't get that high. Mine stays right at about the middle of the scale.
 
I'm not familiar with the 'dump valve'... I'll call K&N and go get a new thermostat today. I originally suspected an air bubble, but I've had that problem in other bikes and they will go straight to red no questions. This bike has been running ok until this recent hot spell in the 90's.
 
Check the anti-freeze. Anti-freeze is not a good coolant by itself. It should not read lower than -37C / -34F. If it is it's mixed too strong which will affect the cooling properties.

Trevor
 
The PO put in Engine Ice right? That's what I have in both my bikes with no issues.

The dump valve is above the oil filter and is turned when flushing but needs to be turned back when done. Make sure it's in the right position.
 
My money is on the thermostat. New thermostats don't necessarily work. Should always check them in heated water with a thermometer before they go in just to make sure. If the thermostat has been put in backwards this high reading will also happen.
 
That's pretty warm but not nevessarily too hot. The drain (dump) valve usually only makes warm up time take longer but it can sometimes effect cooling. A new T-stat won't hurt but I've never had to replace one myself. Make sure you get a new o-ring since they don't like being reused on that particular area. You may even want to get new o-rings for the water pump elbow and tube going into the t-stat housing. You'll pretty much have to take it out to get to the bolts holding the stat in.

Sean
 
I'm going with the thermostat as well, I have had new ones (in cars) that are bad. They aren't too expensive and if thats not the issue you have a spare. Let us know what you find out!.
 
Just putting the pieces together from your post.

Previous owner replaced thermostat and coolant.

Was this because they were experiencing cooling problems?

Did the radiator get flushed (did the whole system get flushed) prior to doing this.

Does the radiator (and coolant lines) have adequate coolant flow through the core?

Does the radiator have adequate air flow through the cooling fins (or is it filled up with a decades worth of dead bugs)?

You also topped up the overflow reservoir. Is the radiator cap giving a proper pressure seal?
 
Theres a guy on ebay out of Arizona that sells thermostates that kick on 20degress sooner than the stock ones. (cant remeber his name now) I installled one about 2 years ago and temp never even reaches 1/2 way
no matter how hard i ride or how hot it is out they cost about 60.00 delivered. And you might want to take offyour fill cap and let the bike run a while ( not the reserve cap) just to make sure you dont have a air traped in it.
 
Haven't rode the bike since my initial post, but finally replaced the thermostat today. Purchased the replacement from K&N, $60 seemed kinda pricey. Made sure to 'burp' the cooling system while replacing fluid. I also added back about half of the Blue Ice and the rest distilled water. All I can say is the temp needle still ran right up to red in just 20 minutes of highway riding and a few stoplights. I hate to keep replacing parts but would rather sell the thing than take into a cycle shop or dealer. Hard to tell, but the existing Tstat looked pretty new and I would bet the PO already went thru all this. Any other ideas? Like I said, it hasn't actually overheated but the needle runs right up the red and I decide to pull over.
 
I'm sure the PO experienced cooling problems. He either replaced the thermo switch or thermostat or both. Flushed the cooling system and switched to some fancy coolant. The radiator itself doesn't looked clogged, it has a screen in front of it that is bug-free. The resevoir is at the right level and the actual radiator cap had a good seal.
 
The gauges are not always accurate. You can try replacing the cap as well since it can cause overheating problems too (though I have not ever had to do one on a Vmax).

Sean
 
Since you've eliminated the thermostat, coolant, rad fan & thermo switch & the rad cap then that narrows it down to either the rad (poor flow internally), the water pump, or the gauge and/or gauge sensor switch.

Anyone have any suggestions for testing those items?
 
Do you have access to one of those infrared heat guns? I would verify the temperature. Mine did that and it turned out to be a dirty ground. The ground is fastened to coolant manifold.
 
Haven't rode the bike since my initial post, but finally replaced the thermostat today. Purchased the replacement from K&N, $60 seemed kinda pricey. Made sure to 'burp' the cooling system while replacing fluid. I also added back about half of the Blue Ice and the rest distilled water. All I can say is the temp needle still ran right up to red in just 20 minutes of highway riding and a few stoplights. I hate to keep replacing parts but would rather sell the thing than take into a cycle shop or dealer. Hard to tell, but the existing Tstat looked pretty new and I would bet the PO already went thru all this. Any other ideas? Like I said, it hasn't actually overheated but the needle runs right up the red and I decide to pull over.


Blue Ice ???
Are you using Engine Ice? It's blue also. And you are not suppose to mix that with water or any other coolant.
If you are using Engine Ice... You are supposed to use straight Engine Ice Only! Nothing mixed or added to it!

I use it and I'm pleased with it here in the extreme heat and Florida Traffic Every Day!
 
Do you have access to one of those infrared heat guns? I would verify the temperature. Mine did that and it turned out to be a dirty ground. The ground is fastened to coolant manifold.

Second that. I think you should make sure the temp you're seeing on the gauge is the actual coolant temp. and not a false reading caused by some electrical issue.

If you don't have access to an infrared heat gun this has worked for me on hydraulic lines before--insulate and tape a blacktop thermometer, or maybe a candy thermometer, to one of the radiator hoses and run it for awhile. That should give you a pretty good idea of the coolant temp. going through the lines.

I'm not sure what temp the max runs at but somebody here should know.

dan
 

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