Trying to ID a part

Discussion in 'General VMax Questions' started by D-Max2012, May 21, 2019.

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  1. May 21, 2019 #1

    D-Max2012

    D-Max2012

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    While giving my 91 a well needed bath after the winter dust settled on her, I was washing in between the cylinders and I noticed a little bit of blue silicon gasket material. It looks like the previous owner put some sealer around that oblonged item that sits between the front and rear cylinders.. It has upside down screws (don't know why that is).. Also, I don't think I'll be able to remove the cap, to put real gasket material in there because of the screws, and no way to turn an Allen wrench. Anyway, deicded to take her for a little spin around the area and after shutting her down for about an hour (talking with some old buddies), i noticed there was some oil leaking from that area.. SOOOOO, I need to identify the part, in order to see if they even make a gasket for it. I have it circled in red on the attached photo.
     

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  2. May 21, 2019 #2

    Fire-medic

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    That's the oil breather, I believe. Oil mist condenses and gets back-into the engine.
     
  3. May 22, 2019 #3

    RempageR1

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  4. May 23, 2019 #4

    D-Max2012

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  5. May 24, 2019 #5

    MaxMidnight

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    Note that there are two seals, the one already mentioned and the one that goes between the two halve of the 'pencil box' - #52 (26H-12428-00) in the Radiator and Hose parts fische.
     
  6. Jun 5, 2019 #6

    D-Max2012

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    Hey guys, I finally got the two gaskets AND the proper name for that bump, that sits in between the front and rear sets of cylinders. From the Internet, its called the "Breather Cover" Yamaha Part #: 1FK-1246E-01-00 & 1FK-1246A-01-00. After Cleaning my bike, I noticed there was some blue gasket material hanging loose, and after a test ride, I noticed there was oil dripping from that area. (With all the other stuff I've discovered and repaired, it looks like the previous owner sill has surprises waiting for me). Now for the real question,, Has anyone ever repaired theirs, and if so, what would be involved.. Does the radiator have to be drained? what about the oil? any special things to look out for?? Thanks a bunch guys..
     
  7. Jun 5, 2019 #7

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

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  8. Jun 5, 2019 #8

    D-Max2012

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    WOW.. What a write up and great photos.. Thanks Mabdcmb. It sound like the guy who wrote that post experienced the exact same thing I did.. After washing the bike and taking it for a test run.. This is not going to be an easy task, as I have to work outside. Considering you have to drain the fluids and remove the carbs and V-boost assembly, which also means I have to re-sync the carbs again, once all is put back together, this also means I have to get some of that blue liquid for my carb tuner.. (that stuff dries up pretty quickly. :-( . I just changed that oil last November and barely got in much riding before putting it away for the winter. Oh Well, I guess I asked for it didn't I ? LOL!! Thanks again.
     
  9. Jun 6, 2019 #9

    D-Max2012

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    I have a little question about this procedure.. Let me hear your thoughts on it..
    We all know that we can see the oil level, in the sight glass.
    ALSO: Keep in mind, that the author of that article says "He thinks" it would be wise to drain these fluids (oil and coolant).
    Granted, I can see the coolant needing to be drained.
    The radiator sits mid-way in height to the Breather Cover, AND, coolant is normally filled to the rim of the thermostat, which sits way higher than that Breather Cover.
    BUT, Do you really think it's necessary to drain the oil?
    I mean, if the oil reached that high, on a non running engine, wouldn't the oil spill all over the place, if you simply removed the oil fill cap?. Remember, the oil fill cap sits way lower on the engine than that Breather Cover? What do you guys think??
     
  10. Jun 7, 2019 #10

    MaxMidnight

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    I agree with you that it isn't necessary to drain the oil.

    Also note that provided it isn't past its sell by date you can re-use the coolant. Also remember to drain the cylinders (covers on the side, bung is removed by screwing in the threaded end of a spark plug and pull).

    There is no need to replace the oil feed pipe bolts and it is unlikely the delivery pipe will be un-serviceable.

    If you are feeling particularly frugal the copper washers can be re-annealed.
     
  11. Jun 7, 2019 #11

    D-Max2012

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    "Also remember to drain the cylinders (covers on the side, bung is removed by screwing in the threaded end of a spark plug and pull)."

    I'm Not 100% sure of what you mean by this? I've never heard of draining the cylinders..
    I've heard of draining the carbs of gas from the float bowls before removing the carb rack, but those are little screws on each carb.
    Can you clarify this a bit more??
    Thanks a bunch.
     
  12. Jun 7, 2019 #12

    maleko89

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    If you remove the side cylinder covers (small squares held on my hex screw) you'll see a rubber plug with a threaded insert. Screw the end of a spark plug in there and pull to remove and the coolant jackets will be drained.

    Mark
     
  13. Jun 7, 2019 #13

    D-Max2012

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    Are you referring to these plates (yellow arrows on pic). If so, I've never had to go in there before. Maybe that's why I'm not familiar with the spark plug trick.
    Cylinder cover plates.jpg
     
  14. Jun 7, 2019 #14

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

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    Yes, that is what FM is talking about.
    Pull those plates off and you will find a little drain plug under each one. Screw a spark plug into the drain plug and pop it out.
    You could rebuild the breather housing without doing so but if you want to do a thorough flush of the cooling system, you should drain each water jacket.
     

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