TT Air box mod

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Ah....thanks. Yeah it's tight in there, just a few mm's one way or another could make the difference.

I should have done a better job documenting the cutouts with some measurements, but I honestly never thought that so many people would be doing the modification. There is no going back and looking at it at this point, I no longer have the bike.....my current VMax has a sealed air box because it has a blower on it.
Blower ?!
 
Ah....thanks. Yeah it's tight in there, just a few mm's one way or another could make the difference.

I should have done a better job documenting the cutouts with some measurements, but I honestly never thought that so many people would be doing the modification. There is no going back and looking at it at this point, I no longer have the bike.....my current VMax has a sealed air box because it has a blower on it.


https://binged.it/32iHHLE
 
Thank you all for posting all of this. Ive always wanted to attempt this but couldnt because I never saved off the info from Starvmax before it went under. My bike came with the big air kit already on it but i do have the OEM airbox. Its just a matter (for me) of figuring out how the stock airbox went together with the intake trumpets etc since Ive never seen it stock on the bike. I dont drag race my bike so the increased midrange torque of the TT kit where I always ride is exactly what Im after vs the screaming top end of the big air kit.
 
Over the last couple of months, I have been in contact with DNA filters. After speaking with some people (that know more than I do), I ordered the Vmax DNA filter. Here are some pics showing the differences in it, and the spectre filter that I was running (main filter.....the filters on the sides are K&N) You can see below just in looking at the difference between the 2 filters. I am currently running a TT air box.

I have a PCV and an autotune. I took the bike out and ran it, and the autotune gave recommendations to add 1 or 2% fuel across the board. I changed to the DNA filter and ran it. In real time a difference of about 45 mins, same place, same way so virtually identical conditions. The autotune gave recommendations to add 8 to 12% fuel in some spots. Most spots were still 1-2%. I found it interesting that the autotune gave recommendations to add fuel, so I know the DNA filters flow better.

When I looked on the DNA website for the smaller filters for the TT airbox mod, they didnt have them, but they said that they would make them.

Here is the link. Are they higher than the K&N....yes. Do they flow better than the K&N, based on what I saw on the video....yes. It was a straight up comparison. I just ordered 2 filters to replace the K&N's on the side, and then I plan on dynoing the bike again.

https://www.dnafilters.com/us/produ...-1.2L-(06-08)-DNA-Air-Filter-PN:-P-RN12S20-01

 

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I just finished my TT mod and it was 100% successful, First of all,thank you Itgoes for everything really you are the best member in this website, you helped most of the us with very value informations, and thanks for Mr.Mike Gawley ( onequickpuck ) for his help and his advices and i’m very happy to deal with him for the light weight rotors and thanks for every one tried to help.
I just got my reflash back from Gurued, can't wait to knock out the TT mod. I've been studying this mod and educating myself with all the posts about it and yes, some measurements would've been nice (lol, lol). Looking at the pics from BOWALEED install, it appears to me that the 2 long/skinny K&N air filters are installed backwards. Is it just me or am I looking at these pics wrong? Please clarify.
 
I just got my reflash back from Gurued, can't wait to knock out the TT mod. I've been studying this mod and educating myself with all the posts about it and yes, some measurements would've been nice (lol, lol). Looking at the pics from BOWALEED install, it appears to me that the 2 long/skinny K&N air filters are installed backwards. Is it just me or am I looking at these pics wrong? Please clarify.

They are installed backward compared to how they are normally installed, BUT as long as the velocity stacks still are able to function, raise up and down, its not an issue.
 
Thanks for the clarification, is one direction better than the other pertaining to the filters? Will it fit if the filters are installed the proper air flow way?
 
I dont know if one direction is better than the other. I run DNA filters, and they stick out approx 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, and there is NO way they can be installed backwards. I do know of people that have installed and run the K&Ns backwards....and have not said there was a difference in how the bike ran....but....speaking with Tim Nash, if they velocity stacks dont move up and down, it will COST approx 10 hp up top, so after they are installed, I would put the airbox back together, and leave the main filter out (so you can see) and if the velocity stacks are moving up and down when you turn the key on and off. For me, even with grinding on the inner lip of the right DNA filter, the right front velocity stack would still catch just a tiny bit, so I had to grind perhaps a mm off the outer edge of that stack.

The velocity stacks are supposed to be able and move up and down approx 1/2 and inch. You can see if there is a difference with NO airbox on vs with the airbox on, and main filter out to see.
 
Thanks for the clarification, is one direction better than the other pertaining to the filters? Will it fit if the filters are installed the proper air flow way?
I doubt the K&Ns are 'directional' as far as airflow...obviously in the application for which they are intended they will go in one way or the other based upon the 'sealing surface' but I can't see how there'd be a difference since it's just oiled cotton.
 
I dont know if one direction is better than the other. I run DNA filters, and they stick out approx 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, and there is NO way they can be installed backwards. I do know of people that have installed and run the K&Ns backwards....and have not said there was a difference in how the bike ran....but....speaking with Tim Nash, if they velocity stacks dont move up and down, it will COST approx 10 hp up top, so after they are installed, I would put the airbox back together, and leave the main filter out (so you can see) and if the velocity stacks are moving up and down when you turn the key on and off. For me, even with grinding on the inner lip of the right DNA filter, the right front velocity stack would still catch just a tiny bit, so I had to grind perhaps a mm off the outer edge of that stack.

The velocity stacks are supposed to be able and move up and down approx 1/2 and inch. You can see if there is a difference with NO airbox on vs with the airbox on, and main filter out to see.

Hey there!

Sorry to rekindle an old thread, but by chance, do you have the part numbers for the air filter in the front ? I do not like running BMC (I have witnessed them deteriorating on other bikes). I am getting ready to do this mod and test on a dyno and will update everyone for future mods if they are interested in doing them.

Thank you for your time and information. It is greatly appreciated.

-Eric
 
Hey there!

Sorry to rekindle an old thread, but by chance, do you have the part numbers for the air filter in the front ? I do not like running BMC (I have witnessed them deteriorating on other bikes). I am getting ready to do this mod and test on a dyno and will update everyone for future mods if they are interested in doing them.

Thank you for your time and information. It is greatly appreciated.

-Eric
Here are the filters are the sides.

https://www.dnafilters.com/en/produ...1?id=5AE7CD61-4612-4A2B-B438-E21D954F6CC71489

Here is the filter for the back.

https://www.dnafilters.com/en/produ...r?id=71552BA1-54FA-4F9C-A76E-1D76C40925B31053

Hope this helps.
 

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