Using new type CDI on 85 Max

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RempageR1

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Hi,

My `85 max has an issue with the CDI, below 2K RPM, there is no spark on both rear cylinders. Above 2K, no problem.

First, I will try and solder the unit again (fixed a timing issue the same way three years ago) but if that does not fix the problem, I would like to install a newer type.

The old ones have four pick-up coils, the new ones only have one. What do I need to swap to use the new unit? Do I need to get the new pick-up or can I use one of the channels of the old pick-ups? Also, do I need to swap flywheels?

Thank you,
RempageR1
 
Un fortuanatly its not just a simple swap. You have to change the wiring harness, pick up coils, flywheel & all your relays . I done it on mine but its not a real cheap thing to do. I probably have everything you need but like I said its not cheap.
 
Un fortuanatly its not just a simple swap. You have to change the wiring harness, pick up coils, flywheel & all your relays . I done it on mine but its not a real cheap thing to do. I probably have everything you need but like I said its not cheap.

Thank you for your reply. The relays and electrics aren't that big of a deal but the flywheel kind of kills it. If the CDI is declared dead I will probably be looking for the same type....

Edit: If I look here: http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-1FK-81450-10-00.html It seems the flywheel is actually used on the 2004 model with 1 pick-up... Do you know the difference between old and new flywheels?
 
The number of magnets is different for the 4 coil vs 1 coil pickups.

The pickup coils are not that bad to get at, remove the two left side engine covers and then two philips screws it comes off. The flywheel is in theory simple, it's right there after the stator cover is removed, but on some bikes they've proven very stubborn to remove. Mine wasn't bad and came off with a rental puller from autozone, but other people have snapped off bolts, broken pullers, ect trying to remove it.

If you're lucky you might find a Dyna 3000 ignition for the 85-89's floating around on ebay or local ads. They don't make them anymore but occasionally they pop up. The oem ignitions for those years tend to be unreliable, and you'd be replacing it with another 25 year old box that's prone to failure. The Dynas are a better option....be cheaper than replacing all the electronics in the bike.
 
Thank you for your reply. The relays and electrics aren't that big of a deal but the flywheel kind of kills it. If the CDI is declared dead I will probably be looking for the same type....

Edit: If I look here: http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-1FK-81450-10-00.html It seems the flywheel is actually used on the 2004 model with 1 pick-up... Do you know the difference between old and new flywheels?
I have a used flywheel but I get $ 200 bucks for them like RA said if you can find a dyna somewhere it would probably be your easiest & best bet with out a bunch of hassle.
 
As Kyle said it's not a CDI swap.

CDI, Flywheel, Sidestand Switch, All Relays (Starter, Fuel, Signal, Sidestand), Pickup Coils, Main Harness, and Harness to back of gauge cluster. Probably some other stuff I am not thinking about at the moment.

You can keep the main coils, stator, pressure sensor, speedo, fan sending unit, temp gauge and sender, neutral and oil switch.

We've got it all too including used CDI units. There is another aftermarket unit available in group buys on here too! Look up Dingy for it!

Sean
 
You can get awy with using your sidestand switch. Its been a whike since I done mine & I almost forgot about that(Thanks Sean) I just put a diffrent connector on mine since I did not have one at that time since its basically like an on off switch.
 
Hi,

My old CDI is now pronounced dead so need so look for an alternative. I will probably move to the Ignitech unit as I hear a lot of good things about them.

As for the wiring issue, that shouldn't be that hard looking at the 85 and 90 electrical diagrams:

The stuff that is the same:
Yellow, Orange, White, Grey : To coils
Black: Earth (in largest connector)
Red/Black, Yellow/Black: Ignition advance
Black: Earth for pick-up coils (in smallest connector)
Orange: Pick-up return.

The stuff that is different:
In 85, Red/White would supply the +12 via the kill swich. Same goes for the coils
In 90, Red/Black would supply the +12 via the kill switch, coils get +12 directly via the ignition fuse
- Nothing needs to be done here

In 85, Black/White comes from the sidestand relay to kill the ignition when the sidestand is out I think. In my bike, that doesn't work.
In 90, Blue/Yellow will do this. The sidestand will ground this wire, don't know if it is in up or down state.
- Maybe the side stand switch needs to be reversed, but since I do not care about this I can see when the engine would fire, with this wire on ground or left unconnected.

In 85, Red/White, Green/White and Grey are pick-up returns.
In 90, these aren't used anymore:
- Nothing needs to be done here.

So the only difference is the Black/White vs Blue/Yellow wire. Like stated by CaptainKyle, rewiring the side-stand wire would make the side-stand act like an on-off switch. That would mean you cannot start the bike while on the side-stand in neutral (do not know if that is normally possible as this circuit doesn't work on my bike). As stated before, I would just forget about this and see which way it would fire regardless of the side-stand.

Anyway, scrap that as I am going for the Ignitech as all that is a much more cost-effective way to go.

Thanks all.
 
Small addition: My Max doesn't have the side-stand relay, that`s why it doesn't switch off when the side-stand is extended :).
 
Small addition: My Max doesn't have the side-stand relay, that`s why it doesn't switch off when the side-stand is extended :).

The side stand relay is the odd-ball relay in the VMax/Venture group of relays.

All the other relays I am aware of have normally open contacts on them, which means when coil has voltage on it the contact passes current through it.

The side stand is a normally closed contact, which means when coil has voltage on it the contact does not passes current through it.

This the side stand switch closes a circuit which opens the contact in the side stand relay. When this contact opens, a ground connection is removed from an input to the TCI 'kill' circuit, allowing it to start the bike.

The same ground is removed from the TCI if the side stand relay is pulled out of its socket. Now the circuit running through the contact never is closed anymore and the ground is never on the TCI kill circuit.

This is a poor design as far as an electrical 'fail-safe' consideration.

Gary
 

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