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hubeerjw

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Useless / Non-Needed Electrical Components

I posted a few questions on my drag bike thread, but I don't know how many people view it so I though I would start a new one and see if I can get any expert advice. Here goes:

Can I simply unplug the side stand switch or do I need to ground or create a short between the two wires?

If I am not using the Vboost, what can I disconnect? (the servo motor, the controller, anything else?) But I still want a engine that I can start.

Can I remove the vacuume sensor/controller? I'm guessing I may not have the proper advance at the higher RPM's, but will the DYNA 3000 overcome this?

What other electronics can I remove to help simplify the electrical system, but still have a running engine? (besides the obvious, signals, horn, headlight, taillight, etc.)

My last question (for now) is what battery should I run? I'm guessing most of you don't know the weight of your batteries, but if anyone has theirs out to charge over the winter, I would be interested in knowing what battery you have and it's weight.

Thanks!
 
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Noxx72

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I posted a few questions on my drag bike thread, but I don't know how many people view it so I though I would start a new one and see if I can get any expert advice. Here goes:

Can I simply unplug the side stand switch or do I need to ground or create a short between the two wires?

The sidestand switch enables a relay under the left scoop. If you really want to clean it up, you can remove the switch body, the two conductors that feed it, and the relay. If you want to leave the relay in place (doesnt weigh anything) just run a jumper across the N/O poles.
 

lankeeyankee

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If I was building a VMAX just for the track here is what I would run..

Charging System.
Toggle Switch for the Ignition.
Tether Kill Cord.
Tachometer w Shiftlite
Vacumn advance unit.
Oil Pressure Gauge
Oil Temp Gauge.
Shit Can the Rest..
Tail Light is needed at all NHRA tracks and IHRA so they can see if you got off the end of track safely.. But I would shit can any Filiment style bulb and stick an LED blinker on the rear of the bike for safety.


Basically remove the complete OEM wiring harness and start wiring only the needed which mentioned above.. NO you dont need a kick stand switch and in all honesty.. I would remove the kickstand and make you a Triangle Stand to use at the track.

VBOOST Shit can it all together take it all off and sell it internationally for 350.00USD.
I would buy a small 12VDC battery and mount as low as possible maybe in the swingarm in front of the rear tire.
 

RagingMain

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I posted a few questions on my drag bike thread, but I don't know how many people view it so I though I would start a new one and see if I can get any expert advice. Here goes:

Can I simply unplug the side stand switch or do I need to ground or create a short between the two wires?

If I am not using the Vboost, what can I disconnect? (the servo motor, the controller, anything else?) But I still want a engine that I can start.

Can I remove the vacuume sensor/controller? I'm guessing I may not have the proper advance at the higher RPM's, but will the DYNA 3000 overcome this?

What other electronics can I remove to help simplify the electrical system, but still have a running engine? (besides the obvious, signals, horn, headlight, taillight, etc.)

My last question (for now) is what battery should I run? I'm guessing most of you don't know the weight of your batteries, but if anyone has theirs out to charge over the winter, I would be interested in knowing what battery you have and it's weight.

Thanks!

You will need your vacuum advancer, the Dyna 3000 uses it. If you look at their graphs you will see their advance is actually less than stock until you add the advance from our vacuum unit. I called them awhile back, when mine shit the bed, and asked them about their curves. The tech told me it is the curve plus what the vacuum advancer adds in.
 

hubeerjw

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You will need your vacuum advancer, the Dyna 3000 uses it. If you look at their graphs you will see their advance is actually less than stock until you add the advance from our vacuum unit. I called them awhile back, when mine shit the bed, and asked them about their curves. The tech told me it is the curve plus what the vacuum advancer adds in.

I may just leave the vacuum advancer off. Since I won't be running stock carbs later on, I'm just going to unplug it for now. Plus I will be running a turbo with a little funny gas, and I will want it retarded a little more anyway, so a little more shouldn't hurt right? Thanks Fargo... good stuff!
 

one2dmax

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keep in mind he is building a turbo bike and needs retard and not advance anyway.

Sean
 

hubeerjw

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If I was building a VMAX just for the track here is what I would run..

Charging System. Done
Toggle Switch for the Ignition. Any recommendations on brand or mounting locations?

Tether Kill Cord. - Have one

Tachometer w Shiftlite Need to get this... from you?

Vacumn advance unit. - Going to leave it off, see my previous post, I'm going to leave it retarded.

Oil Pressure Gauge - Any recommendations? I wouldn't mind a backlit gauge

Oil Temp Gauge. - Did we/you conclude that this is more important that an H20 temp gauge?

Shit Can the Rest..
Tail Light is needed at all NHRA tracks and IHRA so they can see if you got off the end of track safely.. But I would shit can any Filiment style bulb and stick an LED blinker on the rear of the bike for safety. - I was going to ask you about this, I thought I needed a taillight, but I don't need break lights or headlights right?


I would remove the kickstand and make you a Triangle Stand to use at the track.
I am planning on doing something like this, but for now, I'm going to leave the sidestand on it... though I could probably whittle away another pound off the frame if I do it now????

Thanks!
 

Birdoprey

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Jeff,

I believe you will wanna leave the vac sensor on the bike and hooked up electrically, BUT leave the vac hose off. The vac sensor tells the ecu to advance the timming when it sees vac. Leaving the vac line off will make the sensor think you are under heavy load (with no vac) and not add any additional timming. Then you will be able to use the Dyna 3000(whichever curve and also use the retard feature)w/o having to worry about the stk stuff adding anything on top of that when running boost.
I'm not sure if one can just leave the sensor completely removed. Dunno if it would make a difference to the TCU. Maybe someone else knows?
 

hubeerjw

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Jeff,

I believe you will wanna leave the vac sensor on the bike and hooked up electrically, BUT leave the vac hose off. The vac sensor tells the ecu to advance the timming when it sees vac. Leaving the vac line off will make the sensor think you are under heavy load (with no vac) and not add any additional timming. Then you will be able to use the Dyna 3000(whichever curve and also use the retard feature)w/o having to worry about the stk stuff adding anything on top of that when running boost.
I'm not sure if one can just leave the sensor completely removed. Dunno if it would make a difference to the TCU. Maybe someone else knows?

Thanks for all the help guys, I did read in the manual that at 0 psi the vac sensor should put out 2 volts when 12 volts are supplied to it, so I guess you guys are right in that I need it or I need a way to create a 2v jumper for it...
 

hubeerjw

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Here are a few pics of the vacuume pressure sensor internals and the side stand relay (I think) My pressure sensor is bad so I need to figure out a way to get a constant 2 volt supply to one of the wires. Any thoughts?

I edited this post to correct it.... I had fuel pump relay, but this is the side stand realy as Morley pointed out.
 

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one2dmax

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I believe that is the sidestand relay. The fuel pump relay is the relay under the left scoop (squarish).

Sean
 

RagingMain

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I am taking all this back.

I have just learned that a single resistor alone will not drop voltage. It will only increase resistance and decrease current flow. Total voltage stays the same.

http://www.bcae1.com/resistrs.htm

In order to drop voltage in a circuit you will need to put 2 resistors in series.

When I figure out the values I will get back to you.

Sorry if my previous post lead anyone a-stray.

Cheers
 
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naughtyG

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I am making an assumption here that the ignition is drawing 10 amps of current based on the fact the fuse is rated for 10 amps and its current is going to be going up as the bike goes faster.

I just measured my ignition current yesterday, and it didn't go up very much when revving. I don't know if having the engine under load or not makes a difference, but with stock ignition and COPs it drew about 4.5 amp on idle, and across the whole revving range I saw it go between 3.9 and 6.2 amps.

Funnily, some of the higher reading came when 'low idling' - around 800 rpm instead of the usual 1000. :ummm:
 

RagingMain

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I just measured my ignition current yesterday, and it didn't go up very much when revving. I don't know if having the engine under load or not makes a difference, but with stock ignition and COPs it drew about 4.5 amp on idle, and across the whole revving range I saw it go between 3.9 and 6.2 amps.

Funnily, some of the higher reading came when 'low idling' - around 800 rpm instead of the usual 1000. :ummm:

Yeah I was just using the 10 amps as reference. It would be easy enough to do the math with different readings.
 
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