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bikedave99
Well-Known Member
Refurb your V-boost controller
I knew something was a little off because when I turned on the ignition the V-boost check whine was only going one way then getting stuck. It would only whine once. So, like someone else above said, when I flexed my controller board I could hear the servo motor ticking and grinding so I knew that I probaby had some bad solders on the V-boost controller circuit board. This is what I did to fix the problem:
Start by pulling off the side cover and revealing some relays as well as the VB controller on the right.
Unhook the plugs and pull it off. Then pop the cover off to reveal the circuit board underneath.
Flex the box and wiggle the circuit board out, it should come out pretty easily. Turn it over and take a look at the solder joints. Looks good right? I though so, but apparently it wasn't. The whole board has been dipped in silicone so we'll have to get that off to get at those solder joints.
Using a utility knife, cut very carefully around the outside of the board.
Then start to peel it back gently...
Little bit more....
Finally all the way off, cleanly exposing the joints. Next, use a low wattage soldering iron and VERY carefully touch up the joints. You don't need to add any solder as we are just trying to fix cracks. If you try and add solder ,unless you are very experienced at it, you will most like short something by crossing some connections somewhere without knowing it. Then plug it all back up and text to see if you are whining correctly.
I knew something was a little off because when I turned on the ignition the V-boost check whine was only going one way then getting stuck. It would only whine once. So, like someone else above said, when I flexed my controller board I could hear the servo motor ticking and grinding so I knew that I probaby had some bad solders on the V-boost controller circuit board. This is what I did to fix the problem:
Start by pulling off the side cover and revealing some relays as well as the VB controller on the right.
Unhook the plugs and pull it off. Then pop the cover off to reveal the circuit board underneath.
Flex the box and wiggle the circuit board out, it should come out pretty easily. Turn it over and take a look at the solder joints. Looks good right? I though so, but apparently it wasn't. The whole board has been dipped in silicone so we'll have to get that off to get at those solder joints.
Using a utility knife, cut very carefully around the outside of the board.
Then start to peel it back gently...
Little bit more....
Finally all the way off, cleanly exposing the joints. Next, use a low wattage soldering iron and VERY carefully touch up the joints. You don't need to add any solder as we are just trying to fix cracks. If you try and add solder ,unless you are very experienced at it, you will most like short something by crossing some connections somewhere without knowing it. Then plug it all back up and text to see if you are whining correctly.
Dave, thanks for the post including pics!
beerbellybill
Well-Known Member
Being a new Vbooster (Only hit it 3 times so far) can anyone tell me if this is normal: Ever since I owned my new bike I would hear the server motor followed by some sorta clicks. Well the server still kicks in when you insert the key, I can even see the valve open then close, but the series of cliclicking noises have stopped. Not sure if boost is working or not as the bike seems fast as hell even when I'm not at 6k. 
Dreamster66
Well-Known Member
Being a new Vbooster (Only hit it 3 times so far) can anyone tell me if this is normal: Ever since I owned my new bike I would hear the server motor followed by some sorta clicks. Well the server still kicks in when you insert the key, I can even see the valve open then close, but the series of cliclicking noises have stopped. Not sure if boost is working or not as the bike seems fast as hell even when I'm not at 6k.
the click click click is the carbs filling....perfectly normal
bikedave99
Well-Known Member
Another issue...
Alright guys, well, resoldering all the connections helped for a time but now I can hear it open but it won't close when ignition is turned on. Thinking I might need to clean out the motor/butterfly valve/etc... any thoughts on this? Also, I read a post once with pictures about making sure the valve was fully opening but can't find it any more. I think it was posted by Maleko... thanks!
Alright guys, well, resoldering all the connections helped for a time but now I can hear it open but it won't close when ignition is turned on. Thinking I might need to clean out the motor/butterfly valve/etc... any thoughts on this? Also, I read a post once with pictures about making sure the valve was fully opening but can't find it any more. I think it was posted by Maleko... thanks!
gerald marion
New Member
the way i like it
gerald marion
New Member
so how do we fix that fopr 30 dollars
gerald marion
New Member
so for 30 dollars how do i bypass vboost
gerald marion
New Member
ok mike how do we iliminate the vboost for 30 dollars please
He probably used something like a manual choke control cable.
