Vboost: Cable Movement Open Direction?

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desert_max

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Pretty much as the title suggests, when looking at the Vboost cable, which direction opens the butterflies? The cable moving towards the rear, or moving towards the front?

I have found that I have not one, but two non-functional Vboost controllers. The one that came on my 86 is dead, and the one from an 85 I had in my spares bucket is dead. Lucky me. So for a while, I want to power the butterflies to the full open position and assess how it runs. Which way guys?
 
Never mind. Thanks anyway. I figured it out. The cable moving forward opens the butterflies. Forgot I had a spare Vboost manifold on the shelf. Simple matter of eyeballing that thing.
 
If you buy a momentary DPDT switch, you can use it to open and close the Vboost as you'd like.
Unplug the power feed to your existing controller.
Run a + and - wire from the connector to the switch input.
I put an inline fuse on the + just in case.
Cross the + and - wires over to the opposite pins of the switch for the second input.
Output goes to the vboost motor.
 

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Thanks again for this. I'll be putting it to use soon.
Unless you have experience with electrical circuits, then please wire a fuse between the switch and the battery.

There is a potential to short out the battery with a wiring mistake.

And if you have a dvm, test the output prior to connecting to the servo motor.

If you don't have a dvm, then you should, they are so cheap nowadays, and usually cost less than a replacement 9v battery.... although having said that, the most recent dvm I bought (has bluetooth so works with an app on my android phone) uses 2 AA batteries.
 
I have a 6-pack probably of the Harbor Freight DVM's. I have one in my truck, one in the house kitchen 'junk-drawer,' and one in the rental. I miss the free tools from HFT. Still, they're pretty-cheap when you buy 'em, so no great monetary hemorrhage.

Eastern Beaver has a lot of good electrical stuff including fuse panels of various capacities, so compact and useful for add-on circuits. Home Main (easternbeaver.com) Specs for this 8-circuit 60 amp box:

Size (not including mounting ears): 81mm x 58 mm x 30mm (3 1/4” x 2 1/4” x 1 1/8”) - (l/w/h)

Specifications and Features:

- 4 threaded insert nuts provide case mounting and fuse panel installation mounting points

- comes with an assortment of ATM fuses, one for each output circuit and a few extras

- 8 hot + outputs (2 unswitched circuits, 6 switched circuits)

- Switched circuits are turned off when the bike is shut down. An unswitched circuit is always hot - can be used for charging the battery

- 8 ground outputs - much better to ground your auxiliary circuits here than on a bike’s frame

- maximum fuse panel capacity 60 Amps (40A/20A - switched/unswitched)

- maximum circuit capacity 20 Amps (15A continuous)

- maximum output wire size 12 AWG (3 sqmm)

- all hardware is stainless steel (except input posts which are tin plated steel)

- black satin polycarbonate cover makes unit splash-proof yet allows it to breathe and stay cool

- cover mounting tabs on each end can be broken off or left on, depending on mounting choice

- simple robust design means no overheating and no problems with vibration

- This fuse panel was designed with ease of mounting a priority. Therefore there are many mounting options: Dual Lock on back of case, fine threaded screws from back of panel, self tapping screws from inside through PCB inserts to panel, or nuts and screws on the case mounting ears at each end of the case. See further down this page for optional mounting accessory choices. I used 2 machine screws, one each on opposite corners of the mounting tabs for my VStrom installation, straight into the underseat plastic.

Eastern Beaver 60 amp fuse panel.png

Eastern Beaver also has a variety of relays and you can buy kits including relays, or buy relays separately. The basic circuit panel above is $65. You can probably find cheaper ones but the E.B. kits are of good quality.
 
Last edited:
Unless you have experience with electrical circuits, then please wire a fuse between the switch and the battery.

There is a potential to short out the battery with a wiring mistake.

And if you have a dvm, test the output prior to connecting to the servo motor.

If you don't have a dvm, then you should, they are so cheap nowadays, and usually cost less than a replacement 9v battery.... although having said that, the most recent dvm I bought (has bluetooth so works with an app on my android phone) uses 2 AA batteries.

I hope I'll be OK. (Been an EE for over 30 years. Lockheed Martin, Abbott Labs, Intel, yadda yadda)
 
:cool:

You may wish to add an indicator to show position of the switch - I've just seen there are 2 pin red/green bi-colour LEDs where the colour depends on which way round power is applied so all you need is 1 drop resistor.

1622627081198.png
 
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