Vmax Air Boxes and my thoughts

[alorio1]

I have my theory about the stumble when hot issue happens and #1 cause is voltage drop because of extra taxing of electrical voltage dropping and the other is having A/f circuits open too far. As the engine gets hotter the air box being under the faux cover never sees ambient temperature unless the engine is cold. As the engine gets hotter the air box pulls in the hotter air also making the A/F richer. So then when you reach temps that cause the fan to come on which is 212 degrees, it blows even more hotter air to wards the air box updraft air pull. A/f becomes even richer and the engine starts to show signs of stumble. So that is why I recommend setting A/F as lean as you can and just realize that when you start your cold engine its not going to run happy until the engine temp gets up a bit. If we had automatic chokes that were on our older cars our bikes would run good cold or hot, just as the old cars ran, but we don't. Because of the air box design on the Vmax we will never see constant A/F mixture, A/F mixture will always vary due to engine temp variations and because the air box get its air supply from under the faux cover which traps heated air from engine. Just my thoughts about Vmax air Boxes and their design.........

 

[tugla]

interesting, makes good argument to have a real ram air system to help feed nice cold dense air to the carbs........

 

[sdt354]

I have my theory about the stumble when hot issue happens and #1 cause is voltage drop because of extra taxing of electrical voltage dropping and the other is having A/f circuits open too far. As the engine gets hotter the air box being under the faux cover never sees ambient temperature unless the engine is cold. As the engine gets hotter the air box pulls in the hotter air also making the A/F richer. So then when you reach temps that cause the fan to come on which is 212 degrees, it blows even more hotter air to wards the air box updraft air pull. A/f becomes even richer and the engine starts to show signs of stumble. So that is why I recommend setting A/F as lean as you can and just realize that when you start your cold engine its not going to run happy until the engine temp gets up a bit. If we had automatic chokes that were on our older cars our bikes would run good cold or hot, just as the old cars ran, but we don't. Because of the air box design on the Vmax we will never see constant A/F mixture, A/F mixture will always vary due to engine temp variations and because the air box get its air supply from under the faux cover which traps heated air from engine. Just my thoughts about Vmax air Boxes and their design.........

+1, and letting your bike warm up before hammering it should protect you from the dreded o-ring pop out. Cold oil pressure is very high even at idle. I thnk a bike that needs no choke when cold,in the northeast at least,is prolly set to rich. Just my h.o.
Steve-o

 

[alorio1]

Wouldn't we have a strange looking animal with this fabricated into the faux cover......

 

[tugla]

for sure, ive noticed how little choke i need on both my bikes. also the little amount of a/f turns out i have compared to most. But will be putting it on a dyno i hope some time this year and see where im at with the set up.

 

[alorio1]

I have always wanted to put mine on a dyno, but the only one I ever have access to is the one at the Harley blowout in Gulfport Ms. But they have a line of Harleys a mile long waiting to get on it and get their bike tuned it would be midnight before I could get on. The guy running the dyno (John) is awesome at tuning Harleys, and always recomends K&n air filters for a gain in HP and sure enough , he installs the K&N and on the next pull, HP goes up atleat 5 to 9 HP. I am a firm beliver in K&N air filters after watching it increase HP many times on Harleys.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

interesting, makes good argument to have a real ram air system to help feed nice cold dense air to the carbs........

Am working with Sean Morley on a "super secret" project somewhat along these lines. Won't be a true ram air system as it will not be out in clean air, but will allow the intake of cooler air from outside the faux tank. Will post up picks when it is done. Going to be a trick mod........ I hear the Mod Monkey hooting in the trees......:rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[acammer]

...Just my thoughts about Vmax air Boxes and their design.........

I would have to agree, the Vmax seems to have considerable varience in a/f ratio from cold running to hot, and it makes sense, especially at idle when the air draw into the airbox is not that high, that intake air temperature would soar and leave you with enriched a/f mixtures. I notice this a lot on my bike, which is definitely on the rich side. I am unable to tune this out right now, as my right side a/f screws heads are stripped (thank you previous owner), but when I decide to dive into a Muscle Jet Kit, I will have to get these out and replaced. Until then, I just suffer that off idle stumble/hesitation. Anything over 2500rpm and it'll take WOT, so it's not much of an issue, other than from a driveability stand-point, and it's easy enough to work around.

 

[tugla]

Am working with Sean Morley on a "super secret" project somewhat along these lines. Won't be a true ram air system as it will not be out in clean air, but will allow the intake of cooler air from outside the faux tank. Will post up picks when it is done. Going to be a trick mod........ I hear the Mod Monkey hooting in the trees......:rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

:hmmm: interesting my friend, cant wait to see the mod on the tank, little scoop or cowl induction.......sweet :biglaugh: a mini fan pushing air into the air box, i know perpetual motion, but cool anyways.

 

[tugla]

Am working with Sean Morley on a "super secret" project somewhat along these lines. Won't be a true ram air system as it will not be out in clean air, but will allow the intake of cooler air from outside the faux tank. Will post up picks when it is done. Going to be a trick mod........ I hear the Mod Monkey hooting in the trees......:rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

ya its cool i wont tell and no-one here paying attention heheheunk:

 

[Rand-5107]

1970 chevy cowl induction style would be cool. Vacuum actuated in faux cover.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

1970 chevy cowl induction style would be cool. Vacuum actuated in faux cover.

Won't be vacuum actuated, but will be tied to the throttle position....... ok going to stop now LOL.

 

[KJShover]

1970 chevy cowl induction style would be cool. Vacuum actuated in faux cover.

This fall I'm going to use a foam strip that will outline the morley airbox lid to make a seal with the faux and then use boxenstopp's faux cover with the scoop.
A good friend of mine brough up an idea of putting a butterfly over the opening and using the mechanism from an old, early 80's Z28 with the crossfire injection to flip it open. We have the parts, we're going to change how it works a little first. I have it pretty much all drawn up in AutoCAD. now its going to be the wait until fall rolls around to get the new faux and get it fitted then painted.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

This fall I'm going to use a foam strip that will outline the morley airbox lid to make a seal with the faux and then use boxenstopp's faux cover with the scoop.
A good friend of mine brough up an idea of putting a butterfly over the opening and using the mechanism from an old, early 80's Z28 with the crossfire injection to flip it open. We have the parts, we're going to change how it works a little first. I have it pretty much all drawn up in AutoCAD. now its going to be the wait until fall rolls around to get the new faux and get it fitted then painted.

That'd be cool as heck.

But I wonder if that area is a negative pressure area due to the front speedo and handlebars and instrument cluster on the tank creating a tunnel of air over it and sucking a ngeative instead of creating a positive...I'd do it anyway even if it was, too cool not to.

 

[maleko89]

That'd be cool as heck.

But I wonder if that area is a negative pressure area due to the front speedo and handlebars and instrument cluster on the tank creating a tunnel of air over it and sucking a ngeative instead of creating a positive...I'd do it anyway even if it was, too cool not to.

Better add a blower too then.

 

[tugla]

Better add a blower too then.

+1 on a blower hahaha

 

[KJShover]

But I wonder if that area is a negative pressure area due to the front speedo and handlebars and instrument cluster on the tank creating a tunnel of air over it and sucking a ngeative instead of creating a positive...I'd do it anyway even if it was, too cool not to.

I thought about that. I don't have a speedometer in that area, Just a shift light. The scoop on the lid sticks up pretty good, so I think it will grab.

The plan is; when the weather gets better up here, I'll "old school" wind tunnel it by hot gluing different sized pegs on the faux tank, and attach some tinsel or small ribbon to the pegs, turn the bike cam around and angle it to watch the action, then go for a ride and see if I can get some video of it.

If it flows it will be no problem. If not, I'll stick with the stock faux and go with another intake design I've been working on.

.

 

[sdt354]

nope, don't hear a thing. When When WHEN...LOL
Steve-o

 

[firefly]

all air boxes in cars & bikes are close to the engine & will suck in hot air, in cars they have the cold air after market systems, with max air box there are several things one can do to help it get cold ambient temperature air.

1- cut a hole on both sides of the air box corresponding to the stock air box inlets, this will draw in cooler air, cover with metal mesh to make it look nice.
2- Insulate the outer body of the air box with insulating material used for car fire wall to prevent the air box body from absorbing engine heat.
3- line the inside of the air box with aluminum foil to keep it cool inside.
4- squirting some water mist in the path of the air going into the air box inlets or better yet one nozzle per carb.
5- Or use a miniature air condition to cool the air going in the air box.
6- put a small open container with some glycerin in the air box, this will draw some moisture in with the air & will cool the incoming air.

some racers use to put ice in the air box but its impractical as permanent solution.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/adhesive-backed-heat-barrier/p2002968.jcwx?skuId=188890&filterid=j1

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If it flows it will be no problem. If not, I'll stick with the stock faux and go with another intake design I've been working on.

.

Better yet get one of those giant snorkle sccops like the pro stock racers run, then you could use it for a chin rest too!