ive never ridden another vmax to compare it, but it seems like my front brakes really suck... the rear is honestly more powerful... is there something i can check to see maybe what could be causing this?
Help Support VMAX Forum:
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Thing you can check is pad/ rotor condition, brake fluid/ brakes bled properly but for all practical matters the stock brakes need some work on them to get up to todys braking standards.
Since you have the newer 4 piston calipers you may find that a step up to EBC HH pads might really be what you need. Try adding SS brake lines to remove any stock rubber line swelling when you apply the brakes so the calipers get all the pressure you are sending them from the master cylinder. Some add R1 calipers for a bit more clamping power on the rotor.
I'd start with the pads, SS lines, flush & rebleed the fluid and make sure your master cylinder is in top operating condition which should make your brakes work very well.
Since you have the newer 4 piston calipers you may find that a step up to EBC HH pads might really be what you need. Try adding SS brake lines to remove any stock rubber line swelling when you apply the brakes so the calipers get all the pressure you are sending them from the master cylinder. Some add R1 calipers for a bit more clamping power on the rotor.
I'd start with the pads, SS lines, flush & rebleed the fluid and make sure your master cylinder is in top operating condition which should make your brakes work very well.
odieoh24
Well-Known Member
the R1 brake upgrade is a relatively cheap mod now as there are a ton of calipers available for next to nothing on ebay. i was amazed at the difference they made after i installed them the first time. couple that with the ss lines and an fjr 1300 brake master and you'll stop on a dime. then you do the same to the rear , then you change the front end out for usd forks ,then you do the rear wheel and shocks then you........... wonder why you ever started modding the thing in the first place lol
later odieoh24
later odieoh24
95spfldmax
Well-Known Member
You might try wiping down both sides of all your rotors with an alcohol soaked paper towel now and/or before you put new pads on. Just wipe in one direction and start again with a clean surface of towel so as not to keep moving the dirt around. Wait til you see how much dirt comes off.......it can only help......maybe :eusa_dance:
The fork seals had been leaking and I think I did note that the pads may need cleaned or replaced (as with the rear tire). You can change out the pads only and get an improvement back or go with the r1/r6 calipers that was mentioned. I even have a couple of pairs of 6 piston calipers that are a direct bolt on for it.
Sean
Sean
4gasem
Well-Known Member
For sure... The 4pots are MORE than up to the task of stopping the mighty max. IMO what helps is #1 EBC HH pads, #2 Fork springs to keep the bike from pogoing, and #3 Stainless braided brake lines with DOT4 fluid.
You'll be so happy, you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier.
Chris
Nicki66
Well-Known Member
I am running the EBC HH pads all around without any issues. But I will be installing some R6 calipers. They were very cheep on Ebay. The new HH pads cost more then the calipers
Yea, I usually try and keep the pads on hand and have some EBC sets and I should have the Galfer sets on hand. Usually $25-$30 per set.
Sean
Sean
i did but once the temp dropped under 40 degrees the rears squeaked all the time.
sidwin
Well-Known Member
sean pm me a price on a set of front and rear pads shipped.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
If the rear brake is working better than the front you've got issues. As Sean said, the fork oil on the pads is not a good thing. I would be buying new pads, cleaning the rotors, and then taking some scotchbrite to the rotors to clean up any glazing.
sidwin
Well-Known Member
i noticed the same thing on my bike with 3k on it. at first i thought i was crazy was the rear seemed to have better bite. i tried changing fluid but i'll change the pads next. There is a lot of travel in the brake pedal on these bikes. I tried adjusting the scree to give me a little less travel.
thanks,
sid
thanks,
sid
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
I upgraded my 2005 to galfer SS lines, new DOT4 oil, front R1 calipers with galfer ceramic pads and new galfer pads on the rears too. I did find it took awhile bleeding the bike. Had to ride it once to work some of the air bubbles loose. I used my mityvac to bleed both front and rears. Now I can just use a finger or two with a slight pull on the front brake lever and it responds instantly. The rear is very responsive too with the stock caliper.
sidwin
Well-Known Member
agreed.. a week after bleeding everything, the brakes are much better now. I already ordered galfer pads but probably won't even put it in since the bike is behaving quite nice. Stock lines, DOT4 Synthetic flud and stock pads... once properly bleed and about 100 miles on the bike, i can two finger stop. I'm going to have to loosen the brake screw some.
magna_dude74
Well-Known Member
Can someone tell me, is the part number for the front and rear brakes on my 1994 the same part number? Bike Bandit has them for $35.15 a set, is tht a good price? Also will I be ordering 3 sets of these or only 2 sets and have an inner and outer pad left over?
