Vmax running on 3 (or 2??) cylinders

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The coil leads should be accessible without removing the ignition coils. I've just left in-place the front ignition coils when switching to COP's. Sean Morley has the Splicker Designs COP kits for sale. I like the COP's because they eliminate the plug wires, they're easy to swap-out when you have one go-bad, and 'simpler is better,' for me.

You can see for yourself, just follow the wire harness from the ignition coils to the male-female plugs, for each ignition coil.
Good to know that Sean sells the coil over plug kit. So today I installed some parts that Sean sent me (thank you again Sean) including ignition coils, wires, fuse, and the round metal cylinder in the middle (don’t know name). Went to start the bike and everything turns on, all the lights, and battery is freshly charged, however it will not turn over for some reason when I have everything on and go to press the start button. (Yes, the kill switch is turned to the on position). Wondering if I connected something wrong or what this could be
 
Try disconnecting the sidestand switch, or bypassing it.

Re-check your connections you made. The 'round metal cyl in the middle, would that be the starter relay? You can jump that, to actuate the starter.

If the bike isn't in neutral the bike won't start, though you should be able to pull-in the clutch if it's in-gear, and get it to turn over.
 
Try disconnecting the sidestand switch, or bypassing it.

Re-check your connections you made. The 'round metal cyl in the middle, would that be the starter relay? You can jump that, to actuate the starter.

If the bike isn't in neutral the bike won't start, though you should be able to pull-in the clutch if it's in-gear, and get it to turn over.
Okay I’ll try holding clutch in and starting it, also maybe I should put my old starter relay in it and see what happens, I’ll also check all my connections.
 
Try disconnecting the sidestand switch, or bypassing it.

Re-check your connections you made. The 'round metal cyl in the middle, would that be the starter relay? You can jump that, to actuate the starter.

If the bike isn't in neutral the bike won't start, though you should be able to pull-in the clutch if it's in-gear, and get it to turn over.
So turns out I had the starter relay connected incorrectly. Fixed that and went to start the bike and still running on 2 cylinders. New coils, wires, starter relay, fuse.
 
And backfiring and popping like crazy I might add, I can’t have it running for long or the neighbors are gonna report gunshots in the neighborhood
 
Are you sure that you have the front coils wired correctly? Left coil fires the right front cylinder, right coil fires the left front cylinder.
 
Yes, everything is wired correctly, rear cylinders still not firing. Wonder if I messed it up taking it on the freeway on only 2 cylinders
 
I didn't 'read back,' did you say that the cylinders aren't firing at-all, or the plugs are firing, but the cylinders aren't participating in the coordinated internal combustion event? Could you have crossed the coil plugs from the harness to the plugs?
 
I didn't 'read back,' did you say that the cylinders aren't firing at-all, or the plugs are firing, but the cylinders aren't participating in the coordinated internal combustion event?
I believe the plugs are firing because when I turned it over while holding a screw driver to the plugs they produced spark. However rear 2 cylinders still not firing. Even after replacing plugs, wires and coils.
 
I believe the plugs are firing because when I turned it over while holding a screw driver to the plugs they produced spark. However rear 2 cylinders still not firing. Even after replacing plugs, wires and coils.

OK help me out here. Sometimes I don't understand. You have the spark plugs out of the two rear cylinders. Yes or no?

You use a screwdriver inserted into the spark plug cap to jump from the spark plug cap to the spark plug and you see a strong spark from the screwdriver to the sparkplug top, yes or no?

When you re-install the sparkplug and cap, the rear cylinders do NOT apparently fire, yes or no?
 
OK help me out here. Sometimes I don't understand. You have the spark plugs out of the two rear cylinders. Yes or no?

You use a screwdriver inserted into the spark plug cap to jump from the spark plug cap to the spark plug and you see a strong spark from the screwdriver to the sparkplug top, yes or no?

When you re-install the sparkplug and cap, the rear cylinders do NOT apparently fire, yes or no?
#1: No, the spark plugs were in the cylinders when I started the bike yesterday with no success. I was referring to when I checked for spark the other day.

#2: The other day, I took the spark plugs out, connected to the wires, and turned over the bike while the tip of a screwdriver was touching the end of the spark plug. All plugs produced a spark that connected with the screwdriver. So yes.

#3: Yes, when I reinstall the spark plugs and wires, the rear 2 cylinders still don’t fire, even though I have good spark.
 
On the rear cylinders, open your float bowl drain screws and see what comes-out. Drain it into a cup, and take a look at the drainings.

Swap your plugs front to rear & vice versa. Tell us what happens.
 
Did you ever figure your issue out?
I am having some issues too, #4 has spark and carb is full of fuel but that cylinder is not firing.
 
I may have missed it but have you tried with new or clean plugs, NGK as per original spec.

Carbon deposits get burnt off fouled plugs but if you can't get combustion, then that won't happen.

Re. Cleaning use a small brass wire brush or something I've read recently but never tried is to heat the end up to burn off the carbon.
 

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