Voltage drop when accelerating

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Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry

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Voltage drop when accelerating

I'm about to start trouble-shooting my electrical system.

I'm going to follow RaWarrior's thread to try to resolve my issues.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108

Bike usually starts right up without issue 1 time (when on float charger)

Voltage drops when rpm increases.

Bike hasn't started hot for me yet:bang head:.

Hope its a connector issue or the Crimp problem and not the stator but I guess I'll find out.

Time to get cold.

Michigan I love you, but you're bringing me down.
 
My voltage drops too as it revs, however I have no other problems all I never looked into it

-garrett
 
I think max voltage will show between 3-5krpm, anything greater and it will usually go down a bit as the RR dumps off more of the load. Just going by memory from when I had my electrical issues since my Vmax is 1300 miles away from me right now. Fortunately I will be reunited with her tomorrow!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
I believe there is a better alternative to the Crimp Fix, Vincent.
But for starters, I would do the stator checks as described in the Electrosport chart, including the A.C. voltage output. You should get 50 volts + as you apply revs, and the leg combos should be very similar.
If you determine the stator is working properly, you can eliminate that white connector, a weak spot in the wiring, by using individual crimp connectors and soldering, or tight-fitting removable barrel connectors, which allow for easier subsequent stator checks.
Cheers!

edit - Got ahead of myself. First thing to do, make absolutely sure that the battery is good! Most auto suppliers will load test for free. Skipping this little step came back to bite me in the ass a few years ago, after I had gone thru the Electrosport chart, found no problems, but replaced the stator anyway. another thing - the dry cell batteries, such as the popular Odessey, have a very slow failure rate. A good thing, since they ususally won't leave you stranded, but bad if they are in failure mode. Which makes an on-board voltmeter a useful modification for these bikes.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, got to 14.2v, though I did end up bypassing the R/R to the battery. Cleaned up the terminals at the stator and boom, good running bike.

Want to take on the COPs mod next.

Sean
 
I believe there is a better alternative to the Crimp Fix, Vincent.
But for starters, I would do the stator checks as described in the Electrosport chart, including the A.C. voltage output. You should get 50 volts + as you apply revs, and the leg combos should be very similar.
If you determine the stator is working properly, you can eliminate that white connector, a weak spot in the wiring, by using individual crimp connectors and soldering, or tight-fitting removable barrel connectors, which allow for easier subsequent stator checks.
Cheers!

edit - Got ahead of myself. First thing to do, make absolutely sure that the battery is good! Most auto suppliers will load test for free. Skipping this little step came back to bite me in the ass a few years ago, after I had gone thru the Electrosport chart, found no problems, but replaced the stator anyway. another thing - the dry cell batteries, such as the popular Odessey, have a very slow failure rate. A good thing, since they ususally won't leave you stranded, but bad if they are in failure mode. Which makes an on-board voltmeter a useful modification for these bikes.

Thanks again for the info. I have a wet battery. Guy I got the bike from said he just put it in. Hard to believe anything he said though since he went on and on about the legendary V twin performance of the bike. When I pointed out the 4 into 4 exhaust he said that it was a multiple valve engine. At that point I gave up the battle since losing was probably in my favor.

When I do the COPs mod I'll pull the battery and haver it tested.

Having a lot of fun with this bike so far and I've only ben able to ride it once. The fact that it was virtually free is even better.

Sean
 
"and on that starry starry night....
when no hope was left in sight....
you tested your charging system, as most bikers do........

...but we should have told you Vincent....
this forum was especially created....
for new v-max owners just like you"

Good luck with the bike, welcome to the group!:punk:
 
"and on that starry starry night....
when no hope was left in sight....
you tested your charging system, as most bikers do........

...but we should have told you Vincent....
this forum was especially created....
for new v-max owners just like you"

Good luck with the bike, welcome to the group!:punk:

Haha, awesome!

Sean
 
No...No...No... Replace the battery, Stator, and voltage regulator at once. If you don't do it the way the rest of us do it, you may be banned from the forums.

If you still have the problem refer to gamorg02 above and ignore it.

As TraumaHawk says :The VMax is a cruel mistress.
 
Sadly I was unaware of the vmax forum customs and as such I made a sacrifice to the vmax gods for appeasement. I went out and bought a new rectifier, stator and battery. I cut the battery open over the rectifier and stator. The parts turned into two doves that flew out into the snow storm. I lost sight of them. Then it instantly stopped snowing and a ray of sunlight burst through the clouds and shown onto my bike. :eek:The shadow that was cast onto the back wall looked just like a young Dennis Hopper giving me a thumbs up. I can only hope my rights will be restored. :D

Sean
 

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