water passage joints in heads

[MoPure]

While removing the heads from my '85 max motor, I ended up breaking the crossover joint/sleeve whatever it's called. The little tabs that you're supposed to pull on to remove it broke off very easily. Actually kinda crumbled. It looks like new ones are about $15/ea from the stealership.

So, what I'm wondering is if anyone knows of any reason NOT to make some out of aluminum? I have some alum. and more time than money, so that would be saving $30 or so. That could buy about 4 cans of SeaFoam.
Thermal expansion is the only thing I think could be any kind of problem and that would suck ass if it lost seal and filled up my crankcase with green water. Any thoughts?
TIA
Dale

 

[satariel666]

IMO you can machine them form alu.
They're machined with big clearance so i would not worry about thermal expansion. O-rings seals them, not plastic.

The reason why they fabricated from plastic is simply economical or
to prevent them from stick with corossion/oxidation.

I've destroyed one myself while trying to pull them out by using pilers.
Then i've used screwdriver and rubber hammer to wack them form behind.

 

[MoPure]

The reason why they fabricated from plastic is simply economical or
to prevent them from stick with corossion/oxidation.

That's what I was hoping. I think I tend to overthink shit sometimes.

I've destroyed one myself while trying to pull them out by using pilers.
Then i've used screwdriver and rubber hammer to wack them form behind.

Really? I see no access hole for that? Did you drill a hole and then plug it later?

 

[satariel666]

I've just stab it from behind. No real damage

 

[davidon]

I think he means once you pull out the guts of the head you can take a hammer and punch and hit the joint out from the other side/inside of the head. I also found old joints to be stuck and easily crumble when trying to be removed. I think your alum joint idea is a great one. wish i would have thought of that before the engine rebuild

 

[one2dmax]

I've got a few spares I can always hook you up with if you need them. I have new on hand too but rarely use them unless a customer wants all new stuff in a build.

Sean

 

[satariel666]

I think he means once you pull out the guts of the head you can take a hammer and punch and hit the joint out from the other side/inside of the head. I also found old joints to be stuck and easily crumble when trying to be removed. I think your alum joint idea is a great one. wish i would have thought of that before the engine rebuild

Yep, that is what i've tryed to say.

I was thinking about machine them form teflon.
I have raw bar for machine it.

I may try to make one for testing.

Teflon is much much stroner, more flexy and will not crack like stock ones.

 

[MoPure]

Okay, thanks for clearing that up. Sean, thanks, but I really don't wanna stick the factory crap back in. I've got another pair from the 1300 that are still good, but don't wanna use them. Looking for a permanent fix, not a band-aid. Factory joints would probably be fine if they didn't get hot.
Satariel, your teflon idea sounds pretty good too. Should be able to go tighter tolerance with teflon also. I think I'll go ahead and do the aluminum, but I'll drill and tap a hole where the little tabs go and plug it. That way I can thread something in and use a slide hammer or puller or something if they're a bitch to get out next time.
Thanks for the replies fellas.

Dale

 

[one2dmax]

No problem, I used to break them too but learned to use a set of duck bill pliers and don't usually have a problem anymore. Plus, they don't really ever go bad and just how often do you plan to take the engine apart to need to remove them??

Sean

 

[MoPure]

.... they don't really ever go bad and just how often do you plan to take the engine apart to need to remove them??

Sean

Funny thing about plans.... they tend to not go as planned. That's why I wear riding gear :biglaugh: