Well that's one way to find out fuel light and reserve don't work.

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mdfb42

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Just hanging out on a country road waiting for the wife to bring me fuel. PO told me fuel light was dim but didn't say that the fuel light just didn't work AT ALL and neither does the reserve switch.
 
That Sucks !
I always set my trip odometer when I fill up and make sure I get to a Gas station around 100 miles or so just to be safe.
 
Man that sucks, good thing some 1 is bringing the gas.
I had this happen 2 times all both times. I forgot to set the trip meter.
I now stop at every 75 to 80 miles just to be safe.
 
You might misunderstand "Reserve" function. If you conk out because the fuel light failed you, did not mean you ran out of fuel in the Main tank. It just means you reached a level that kicks off the fuel pump. When you switch to "RES", you over ride the fuel pump shut off feature of the low fuel light and will run til you are out of gas.
The tank has no reserve section, it's all a common tank.
 
Well I conked out at 93 miles only. Some major issues on the range of this bike and don't know what it is.

When I switched to reserve, it did nothing to help the bike keep running or start back up whenever it died on me.

The actual light of the fuel light works as it lights up on ignition but never turned on when riding.

Definitely frustrated for several reasons, ran out of fuel at 93 miles, fuel light didn't work when low, and reserve didn't help me limp to a gas station
 
Well I conked out at 93 miles only. Some major issues on the range of this bike and don't know what it is.

When I switched to reserve, it did nothing to help the bike keep running or start back up whenever it died on me.

The actual light of the fuel light works as it lights up on ignition but never turned on when riding.

Definitely frustrated for several reasons, ran out of fuel at 93 miles, fuel light didn't work when low, and reserve didn't help me limp to a gas station
Unplug the fuel tank sensor in that situation. I the sensor is the issue, you'll be able to use the .8 of a gallon left.
 
Unplug the fuel tank sensor in that situation. I the sensor is the issue, you'll be able to use the .8 of a gallon left.


So if I unplug the sensor it will automatically keep the pump on to use the rest if the fuel?

The PO said light came on around 60-70 miles. Which I still don't know what would cause that bad mpg. So I'm wondering if even though I had the fuel ON and not on reserve, if it thought it was on reserve since I got 93 miles(which I think I should be getting 100 BEFORE light goes on IMO just gotta know what to look for)
 
The sensor sounds like an issue. Yea, unplug it and see if it fires back up. I'm getting 110-120 before the light, and not on an economy run either.
 
Well 90-110 miles before the light comes on....and you have to switch to reserve is pretty common.
 
That Sucks !
I always set my trip odometer when I fill up and make sure I get to a Gas station around 100 miles or so just to be safe.

Same here!!! I have a mental gas gauge using the trip meter; 0 miles = full, 30 miles = 3/4, 60 miles = half, 90 = 1/4, around 108 to 110 low fuel light should kick on, and 115 to 120 red zone.....better get gas NOW!!!
 
That Sucks !
I always set my trip odometer when I fill up and make sure I get to a Gas station around 100 miles or so just to be safe.



Well 90-110 miles before the light comes on....and you have to switch to reserve is pretty common.



Same here!!! I have a mental gas gauge using the trip meter; 0 miles = full, 30 miles = 3/4, 60 miles = half, 90 = 1/4, around 108 to 110 low fuel light should kick on, and 115 to 120 red zone.....better get gas NOW!!!


I wish I was able to get 100 miles on a tank (before or after reserve). I'm trying to narrow down the problem. Got stage 7 jet kit with modified stock exhaust. Wanting to get a full exhaust on it soon as well as a igni switch. After that my next guess would be to look at the mains and see what size the PO has in the bike to see if he was running like 170s and should be running 155s or 152.5s.

Any additional ideas are welcome as unfortunately my knowledge is limited on the Vmax and I'm just an accountant by day so the tax code makes more sense to me than some of the stuff relating to my bike does.
 
I wish I was able to get 100 miles on a tank (before or after reserve). I'm trying to narrow down the problem. Got stage 7 jet kit with modified stock exhaust. Wanting to get a full exhaust on it soon as well as a igni switch. After that my next guess would be to look at the mains and see what size the PO has in the bike to see if he was running like 170s and should be running 155s or 152.5s.

Any additional ideas are welcome as unfortunately my knowledge is limited on the Vmax and I'm just an accountant by day so the tax code makes more sense to me than some of the stuff relating to my bike does.

Well thats probably most of your problem....stage 7 with a stock...or modified stock exhaust. To get all of the benefits of stage 7....you need an aftermarket exhaust.

So your flowing a LOT of fuel into the engine.....and CANT flow a lot of exhaust OUT of the engine.
 
Well thats probably most of your problem....stage 7 with a stock...or modified stock exhaust. To get all of the benefits of stage 7....you need an aftermarket exhaust.



So your flowing a LOT of fuel into the engine.....and CANT flow a lot of exhaust OUT of the engine.


Yeah I was thinking that is the first issue.

Then once I get an igni switch on it hopefully get it dyno'd to see what setting on the igni switch and then see what size jets I need.

Only problem is I don't know anyone in my area that does dyno testing.

The final question I need to also answer to finish this issue would be the Vboost. Not knowledgable on the Vboost to begin with and with the stage 7 I don't know if it is disconnected, on all the time or what. From what I have read it appears I want the Vboost to be how it was stock, on at 6k
 
Well to first see if you have V-boost.....do you have a whirring sound when you turn the key on?

Unfortunately I'm at work....and cant post a youtube video of it, but you can type in Vboost sound....and that should pull up a video.
 
Well to first see if you have V-boost.....do you have a whirring sound when you turn the key on?

Unfortunately I'm at work....and cant post a youtube video of it, but you can type in Vboost sound....and that should pull up a video.


I would call it more of a pumping or ticking sound that I hear so I don't think that is it. Here's what he told me the Vboost controller was by the pod filters so I don't know if this pic tells you anything ImageUploadedByTapatalk1407072341.546326.jpg
 
Just remove enough to see if your VBoost butterflies open and then close when you turn-on the ignition. Look for the cable movement. If you are running VBoost always-open, then there probably-won't be any cycling to hear.

The VBoost motor is energized/controlled by the round electrical plug under the left scoop unless it has been bypassed by some aftermarket switch.
 
Just remove enough to see if your VBoost butterflies open and then close when you turn-on the ignition. Look for the cable movement. If you are running VBoost always-open, then there probably-won't be any cycling to hear.

The VBoost motor is energized/controlled by the round electrical plug under the left scoop unless it has been bypassed by some aftermarket switch.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1407076059.188701.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1407076080.805196.jpg

This what you mean by butterflies? The part he gave me in a box?

And the round electrical plug on the top of the second picture?
 
Well shoot. Anyone have an idea of difficulty to reinstall? Initial thought doesn't make it seem easy or fun
 
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