What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[Fire-medic]

What size is the XJR master cyl bore? Our stock size is 5/8 and if you deviate from that for the R1 calipers that could be your problem, as the R1 calipers are similar to the stock dual-opposed piston stockers on the 1993-07 bikes, for the amount of fluid and bore size needed.

You might try a reverse-flush on each next time, that may be quicker. I used to do a Mity Vac on both sides, but for some reason, I found the clutch side went faster w/a reverse-flush. Now I pretty-much just do the reverse flush for both.

Here's a thread about the FJR master cyl, and links to useful charts for calculkations about 'what will work:' http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17036&highlight=master+cylinder+bore+size

 

[falling]

What size is the XJR master cyl bore? Our stock size is 5/8 and if you deviate from that for the R1 calipers that could be your problem, as the R1 calipers are similar to the stock dual-opposed piston stockers on the 1993-07 bikes, for the amount of fluid and bore size needed.

You might try a reverse-flush on each next time, that may be quicker. I used to do a Mity Vac on both sides, but for some reason, I found the clutch side went faster w/a reverse-flush. Now I pretty-much just do the reverse flush for both.

Here's a thread about the FJR master cyl, and links to useful charts for calculkations about 'what will work:' http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17036&highlight=master+cylinder+bore+size

I thought 14mm was the ideal bore for R1 calipers?


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[BorgBiker]

I used the information on Vmax Outlaw http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html, There's a section called "Vmax Tech and Info". The Brakes sections has "Yamaha R1 Caliper Conversion". In it, it recommends the XJR MC to use with the R1 calipers.

The XJR MC is 14mm, the Vmax is 5/8. 5/8 translates to 15.87mm, so the R1 piston is a bit smaller than the Vmax piston, that probably explains the longer travel. It feels fine, but I am certainly thinking about other options.

Reverse bleeding? What a concept! Suck from the top? Trying to recall if there's a place to connect a hose from the MityVac.

 

[DMAN999]

IMO, by changing from the stock 4 piston calipers and MC with HH+ pads to the R1 calipers and FJR/XJR MC with HH+ pads, you're just ending up with similar (or even less) breaking power.
That just seems to be a lot of wasted time, effort and money to me.

From the Vmax outlaw R1 conversion page:

In Sam's opinion the "HH" pad swap put the R1 calipers on par with the performance of stock four piston units.
He was still disappointed however and noted that they probably would not perform as well as stock Vmax calipers also equipped with "HH" pads.

 

[falling]

IMO, by changing from the stock 4 piston calipers and MC with HH+ pads to the R1 calipers and FJR/XJR MC with HH+ pads, you're just ending up with similar (or even less) breaking power.
That just seems to be a lot of wasted time, effort and money to me.

From the Vmax outlaw R1 conversion page:

Reading the next two paragraphs in the outlaw write up would show you why he switched the mc and why it is worth it.


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[Fire-medic]

There are any number of threads and posts about this technique. You push fluid from the bleeder valve on the caliper or the slave cyl (clutch) towards the master cyl. A large syringe w/a short length of clear 1/4" I.D. plastic tube is used. I prefer to use a hose clamp on the hose to hold it to the bleeder nipple. be sure to rinse-out the piston plunger as medical syringes areally aren't made to withstand brake fluid, and will deteriorate over time if this isn't done when you're finished. The rubber will swell, and make the syringe much-harder to use, if at-all.

I used the information on Vmax Outlaw http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html, There's a section called "Vmax Tech and Info". The Brakes sections has "Yamaha R1 Caliper Conversion". In it, it recommends the XJR MC to use with the R1 calipers.

The XJR MC is 14mm, the Vmax is 5/8. 5/8 translates to 15.87mm, so the R1 piston is a bit smaller than the Vmax piston, that probably explains the longer travel. It feels fine, but I am certainly thinking about other options.

Reverse bleeding? What a concept! Suck from the top? Trying to recall if there's a place to connect a hose from the MityVac.

 

[DMAN999]

Reading the next two paragraphs in the outlaw write up would show you why he switched the mc and why it is worth it.

I did read all of that article.
And the bottom line is that he is swapping out a stock Vmax 4 piston caliper (on his 2002) for a smaller diameter piston R1 4 piston caliper.
And he had to change the MC to the XJR/FJR and add HH+ pads just to get it to equal the stock 1993+ Vmax breaking.

This setup brings Max up to the year 2000 in terms of braking technology.

IMO that's a lot of wasted time, money and effort just to get back to close to what you had on a 1993 or newer Vmax with EBC HH+ pads installed.
I'm sorry but there is just no way you can convince me that the smaller R1 calipers and 14mm MC brake better (or even as good as) my stock 2000 calipers with EBC HH+ pads.

Now if you installed 6 pot calipers (Haybusa, etc) and larger rotors, I'd say you actually upgraded your brakes instead of almost matching the stock setup you already had.

 

[one2dmax]

The R1 conversion is going to be a very minor change that many won't notice. You haven't increased pad surface or leverage (rotor diameter). Depending on the year of the FJR master you may or may not even change the effect from that (piston diameter and throw varied through the years).

Going with one of our upgrades to the 6 pistons and even the larger rotors is truly an upgrade.

 

[BorgBiker]

After riding it around for a while, it's... different. There is more lever travel, so the braking is stretched out over that wider range. Now that I have it optimized, I'd say it's on par, maybe even a small amount stronger than what was on it. Not enough to do all the effort for, but I really dig the looks (gold circle calipers. But inevitably I will go with more power over looks (especially in braking). I'm still contemplating the 6 piston calipers. I guess if I go Busa, I can just go with the Busa MC too?

I like the remote reservoir and adjustable lever. Once I have the brake side finalized, I'll move on to try and match the clutch side. But that's another topic!

 

[Traumahawk]

After riding it around for a while, it's... different. There is more lever travel, so the braking is stretched out over that wider range. Now that I have it optimized, I'd say it's on par, maybe even a small amount stronger than what was on it. Not enough to do all the effort for, but I really dig the looks (gold circle calipers. But inevitably I will go with more power over looks (especially in braking). I'm still contemplating the 6 piston calipers. I guess if I go Busa, I can just go with the Busa MC too?

I like the remote reservoir and adjustable lever. Once I have the brake side finalized, I'll move on to try and match the clutch side. But that's another topic!

Its my understanding that the busa brakes are used for the 85-92 Vmax with an adapter. For the 93-07, the 95-97 FZR1000 and 96(?) YZF750 calipers bolt right in place. You DO NOT need to shorten the lines, and you DO NOT need to change the MC.

I have an 07, stock master cylinder, stock length braided lines, FZR 1000 6 pot calipets, wavy rotors, and adjustable levers and have ALL of the braking that I ever want. Ive ridden a Vmax with the R1 calipers with the stock MC and didnt like it because the brakes felt very wooden. With this set up you have some lever travel, and the brakes are very responsive.

You can see the set up in the pic below.

 

[adambweird]

I like the feel of the r1 calipers with braided lines and the stock master, it feels almost like what my GSXR's front brakes felt like.

 

[caseyjones955]

I rode it gently up a snow packed road from my parking flat (pucker factor 8.75) to my deck so I could drag it inside the cabin, ordered a new seat from Rick and choose a paint color. The work begins.

 

[D-Max2012]

Tested out my new tires yesterday.. Rides nice..
With the slightly larger diameter tires, it feels like the bike wants to stay upright by it self easier.
Gyroscopic effect I presume.

 

[Zeus36]

I run with no tank cover and lost my fuse box cover. Spent a few hours walking along Pacific Coast Highway looking for it, but no dice. (I felt it hit my leg as it flew off). Bought another wiring harness just for that cover and decided to tether it in place in case it flew off again. I used a piece of Spectra cord with stopper knots in each end:

 

[Zeus36]

Running for max airflow and have removed the Y piece. (I know lots of folks will say I should not run it that way)

Didn't like the look of those empty screw holes in the air box so I filled them up with some stainless Allens:

 

[one2dmax]

Been there a long time ago. The next step is to route out the opening to match the filter.

 

[Zeus36]

Ok, so I did this over the weekend but was too busy riding to upload the pic...

The bike came with a Dale Walker Holeshot system that was silver. I picked up some VHT flat black header paint and spent Saturday putting on the required coats with drying times and then heat treatment. Used a heat gun shoved into the outlet while the pipes were hanging in the garage for a reverse flow. This cured them off the bike so they wouldn't get too scratched up during the reinstall. Still got a few scrapes, but not too bad. They need a touch up. Next time I'll cover them up before putting them back in place.

Also got tired of metal rubbing onto my boots so I covered the shifter with split loom. Did the rear brake pedal as well.

 

[jinks]

Running for max airflow and have removed the Y piece. (I know lots of folks will say I should not run it that way)

Didn't like the look of those empty screw holes in the air box so I filled them up with some stainless Allens:

Does this lean out the engine ? Or does it perform better ? Whats the pro's and cons ?

 

[Zeus36]

Does this lean out the engine ? Or does it perform better ? Whats the pro's and cons ?

The first owner put on the Holeshot exhaust, K&N filter, T-Boost mod, and I believe a jet kit. (I am the third owner and have never spoken with the first owner - don't know who he was)

It runs really rich and I average a sucky 22 MPG, but I'm not ready to pull the carbs yet as it is too fun to ride it. (haven't even balanced the carbs yet) I don't use the T-boost, but I do get close to redline during shifts and ride it like I stole it.

There are many posts on the forum about air box mods and the Y cover - too many to list right now.

I figured with those pipes and basically straight mufflers, more air would help balance out the rich condition.

 

[BorgBiker]

Yesterday, I rode to work in 7 minutes, 52 seconds. Yes, the Max didn't even get warm: https://youtu.be/h4dPAXsWEP8

The video on my PC is super sharp, but the uploaded Youtube is a bit fuzzy. Anybody know how to fix that?