What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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I installed an inexpensive power outlet for 12v and USB. Works well on my other bike keeping my phone (navigation) powered. Also reverse feeding 12v back to the battery from my trickle charger. Beats having to unbolt my aftermarket seat all the time. Plus it has a voltage readout.

I admit, maybe not the prettiest thing in the world but I'm not either.
 

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I installed an inexpensive power outlet for 12v and USB. Works well on my other bike keeping my phone (navigation) powered. Also reverse feeding 12v back to the battery from my trickle charger. Beats having to unbolt my aftermarket seat all the time. Plus it has a voltage readout.

I admit, maybe not the prettiest thing in the world but I'm not either.
out of curiosity, I noticed you have your fuel selector on reserve, how come? I ask because I am unclear on how exactly the reserve works on this bike. I ran it out of fuel once, flipped to the reserve, and nothing happened. I turned the key off and then on and then the bike started again but started sputtering shortly afterward, luckily it got me to a gas station before dying again.
 
out of curiosity, I noticed you have your fuel selector on reserve, how come? I ask because I am unclear on how exactly the reserve works on this bike. I ran it out of fuel once, flipped to the reserve, and nothing happened. I turned the key off and then on and then the bike started again but started sputtering shortly afterward, luckily it got me to a gas station before dying again.

You've got good eyes. For the winter I put in fuel stabilizer as well as run the bike out of gas. My carbs are pretty Ify now so I get rid of as much fuel in the bike as I can for the winter. So I left it on reserve.

I would think when you switch to reserve a solenoid opens the lower fuel intake tube. You will no doubt need a few seconds, or maybe a minute (depending on how low the fuel bowls are with fuel), for the fuel pump to fill them. When I switch over to reserve it works pretty fast. Of course the first thing I do is reach under the fake tank, then go duuuu, no petcock here, not even a tank. Then flip the switch
 
You've got good eyes. For the winter I put in fuel stabilizer as well as run the bike out of gas. My carbs are pretty Ify now so I get rid of as much fuel in the bike as I can for the winter. So I left it on reserve.

I would think when you switch to reserve a solenoid opens the lower fuel intake tube. You will no doubt need a few seconds, or maybe a minute (depending on how low the fuel bowls are with fuel), for the fuel pump to fill them. When I switch over to reserve it works pretty fast. Of course the first thing I do is reach under the fake tank, then go duuuu, no petcock here, not even a tank. Then flip the switch
Thanks for the tip, my first bike had a petcock, and the middle two had nothing but a light that came on when you had about 1/2 gallon left, but this one had me a bit confused.
 
You've got good eyes. For the winter I put in fuel stabilizer as well as run the bike out of gas. My carbs are pretty Ify now so I get rid of as much fuel in the bike as I can for the winter. So I left it on reserve.

I would think when you switch to reserve a solenoid opens the lower fuel intake tube. You will no doubt need a few seconds, or maybe a minute (depending on how low the fuel bowls are with fuel), for the fuel pump to fill them. When I switch over to reserve it works pretty fast. Of course the first thing I do is reach under the fake tank, then go duuuu, no petcock here, not even a tank. Then flip the switch
Nope! no solenoid, just a change in resistance measured at the fuel level sensor by the C.D.I. module.
That change in resistance caused by low fuel simply shuts of the fuel pump then the motor stumbles, dies.
You turning your switch to reserve is a different circuit in the module allowing the fuel pump to run then
you the rider are now aware that you will soon be pushing if you don't get fuel. This may be better explained
in the manual, depending on which one you have, which is the subject of my next post. Here's a pic of the
fuel level sensor.20200829_193352.jpg
 
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Nope! no solenoid, just a change in resistance measured at the fuel level sensor by the C.D.I. module.
That change in resistance caused by low fuel simply shuts of the fuel pump then the motor stumbles, dies.
You turning your switch to reserve is a different circuit in the module allowing the fuel pump to run then
you the rider are now aware that you will soon be pushing if you don't get fuel. This may be better explained
in the manual, depending on which one you have, which is the subject of my next post. Here's a pic of the
fuel level sensor.View attachment 74891

Interesting, that does sound less expensive/complicated and get's the rider's attention. Maybe not as safe just as a light. I might look into bypassing the fuel shut off at some point and just have the light come on.
 
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Also reverse feeding 12v back to the battery from my trickle charger. Beats having to unbolt my aftermarket seat all the time.

yeah, I'm looking at doing something like that.

BTW what is the big red light on the unit for?
 
yeah, I'm looking at doing something like that.

BTW what is the big red light on the unit for?

It was a bit dark but the red light on top is the on/off switch. I have it wired direct to the battery (through a fuse of course) so it is not switched from the key. I can then reverse feed that battery. The red in the front is the voltage display. It scrolls between 5v (for the UBS) and 12v (battery/cigarette lighter output). It is very bright wich is nice so you can see it in sunlight. You can get these on eBay for like $10

I was a concerned about leaving this cheap ass thing on for days at a time but it seems to be working OK
 
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I just started it up and let it run for a while, then I did a quick wash. It’s been filthy and I’ve been meaning to do it. I want it nice and clean so if it happens to hit 40 degrees and sunny it’s ready. F8910A47-83D1-43AE-8008-6D02C0D8D783.jpeg22E7C4CA-BECA-47B6-9B8E-B1DC2C9746BF.jpeg
 
Interesting, that does sound less expensive/complicated and get's the rider's attention. Maybe not as safe just as a light. I might look into bypassing the fuel shut off at some point and just have the light come on.
I have a fuel gouge and the stock low fuel warning light, so the reserve is always left on.
 
So I have finally gotten to the budget carb kit install. Got my carbs apart, soaked for about 3hours each in Chem-tool, rinsed, dried and ready to go! Yea right....I first started a close examination of the parts included. There are 3 pilot jets sized 40, 42.5 and 45, and three jets sized 150, 152.5 and 155. The identification stamping and screw driver slot are misaligned on all jetting, the pilot jets all seemed legit, looked like mikuni.
I was concerned about the material feel of the vac. and shut-off diaphragms and dismissed it as "a new synthetic" to ease my doubts about this crap I was about to put in my already finicky Vmax carbs.
So I started to separate the rubber from the slide the same way I always have and shattered the slide. OMEN!!!!
Saturday morning Ill be at Steels Salvage to pillage the slide from one of three Ventures they
have,(fingers crossed).
I was in hindsight relieved to decide against the rubbers swap and started looking at the slide needle to emulsifier tube fitting compared to my OEM, not a perfect match....
theirs was sloppy in the carb body, I put calipers on it, it measured .307, OEM .312.... the needle didn't fit like the OEM set either, it didn't slide in up to the plastic, it went barely over half way, another red flag on the crap kit . Now for the air/fuel screw, it looks more like a miniature threaded drift than anything meant for fuel trim LOL. Along with the mismatched O-rings, stopper plugs and only one gasket, I give the kit a "4 bad cylinder's" rating. So just before posting here I started the ebay return process, strangely the photo upload wouldn't work, go figure. I completed anyway , submitted and got an email saying I should receive a return shipping label by 1/27, then another saying the seller will respond with return instruction. Will keep posted.
20210122_150042.jpg20210122_163428.jpg20210122_172816.jpg
 
I just started it up and let it run for a while, then I did a quick wash. It’s been filthy and I’ve been meaning to do it. I want it nice and clean so if it happens to hit 40 degrees and sunny it’s ready. View attachment 74916View attachment 74915

Hope it's not a couple months and the battery is dead. Maybe you live in Miame and tha't not a thing. I don't
I have a fuel gouge and the stock low fuel warning light, so the reserve is always left on.

Oh that's right the light does not go out when reserve is switched on. I've only got a few hundred miles on it so far so still figuring things out
 
I live in Ohio, outside of Cleveland. Temperature was 27 degrees yesterday. If it goes up to 40 degrees with sun I will ride. I probably start my bike once a week during the winter, I want my neighbors to know I still have it, if they don’t like the Beautiful sound of a DW holeshot they can move. Today I’m going to polish it up.
 
Hope it's not a couple months and the battery is dead. Maybe you live in Miame and tha't not a thing. I don't


Oh that's right the light does not go out when reserve is switched on. I've only got a few hundred miles on it so far so still figuring things out
A good manual, get to know how to use it, read it, study it. Learn to use the search feature here
and on your way to finding out how the Vmax works, or is supposed to work.
 
Got up and went to a local gold mine motorcycle salvage yard called Steels Cycles to replace the slide I broke during the aborted budget carb kit install. Update on that, I got the return ship label
emailed to me this morning, the kits on its way back to the ebay seller, refund pending.
So at Steels of course no Vmax's but there are two complete Ventures, but even better were the store buggy's full of carb racks.
Right in top is a complete Venture rack, each carb still had the security screw! First time
seeing these for me, anyway, I removed the slide, 20 bucks later I'm heading back to reassemble my carbs and rack with the original OEM and trusted aftermarket parts, a good day.
My old grandmother had a saying for "deals" like the $42 carb kits. She'd say it's "too much sugar
for a dime".
Grandma was right, you only get what you pay for and sometimes not even then LOL.
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I would recommend to EVERYONE to reassess stuff every so often.

In 2013, I started upgrading the suspension on the Vmax. I went with progressive springs....and preload adjusters. I still had stock rear shocks.....set at 3. The preload adjusters were adjusted to probably around half an inch and the progressive springs are an inch lower.

It was a little bit harsh.....but WAY better than stock.

Then....I got a GREAT deal on some 418's that had maybe 50 miles on them.

One downside......at Eureka Springs....ran into 2 turns that had a series of bumps...that with the suspension that stiff, it was like hitting a washboard. NOT GOOD in a turn. Rest of the ride was great.

So....2 months ago lucked into some 444's. After putting them on....the ride was soother....but harsh at the same time.

This afternoon, I brought the preload adjusters all the way in. That made for a prefect ride. Where I live, the roads arent great, but with the progressive springs, and the preload adjusters all the way in....HUGE improvement. The best turns that I have around here, are coming on and off the interstate. I was still getting a little bit of a wobble coming out of a turn....even leaning into the turn with my body weight. So I went oldschool, and dropped the front forks 1/2 an inch. That is GREAT.......for now. Of course.....if I change the handlebars....it will be time to reassess again.

I also brought in the Can on the kerker 4-1.....so it didnt stick out as far. All in all a good day.


I have a first GEN 1997 VMAX1200.................. where'd YOU buy your PreLoad Adjusters at? MINE are trash and need replacing. THANKS!!!!
 

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