RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I recently had the tires changed on my Z, both were 17" wheels with a 120 front and 190 rear. When I got the bike it had new tires and regular stick on lead weights for balance. After a few washings, some of the stick on weights fell off and the bike developed a noticeable "hop" at speeds much above 80 or so that got worse with more speed. Also got a little headshake at moderate to low speeds that wasn't there before. Figured this was from the lost balance weights, so decided to give the dyna beads a try.
Put the recommended amount in both tires, and removed the couple weights that were left (as directions say). It was maybe slightly better, but still had the speed "hop" and headshake. Hitting bumps mid-corner now had a pronounced effect, I guess from it knocking the beads all over the place. Anyway, maybe 3k miles after installing the beads, I got a look at the inside of the Metzeler M3's.
The biggest reason I think they didn't work is that the inside of the tread isn't smooth. It had a fine honeycomb-like pattern that I can definitely see would interfere with the beads evenly spreading around. As a result, there was a good amount of black rubber "dust" as well, from this honeycomb texture being sanded off by the beads flying around, further hampering their even distribution. The new Pilot Power 3's I had put on had a very similar texture inside, and the service manager said that's pretty common on sportbike tires. He said virtually any high speed rated tire has this pattern and won't work well with beads or other internal balance media. To make it work, you have to use considerably more media than recommended, up to 3 or 4x as much, essentially to "fill in" the texture and make the tire smooth so it can work as designed. Additionally, he said that they have re-spun worn out tires that were balanced only when new with regular weights, and probably 90% of the time the machine says they're still balanced, so the benefits of constantly re-balancing the tire are rather exaggerated.
I don't remember if the ME880s I ran on the vmax were textured inside or not. I never tried the beads either
I know this is up there with debating motor oil, but this does give some explanation as to the mixed bag of reports from people that try the bead balancing.
Put the recommended amount in both tires, and removed the couple weights that were left (as directions say). It was maybe slightly better, but still had the speed "hop" and headshake. Hitting bumps mid-corner now had a pronounced effect, I guess from it knocking the beads all over the place. Anyway, maybe 3k miles after installing the beads, I got a look at the inside of the Metzeler M3's.
The biggest reason I think they didn't work is that the inside of the tread isn't smooth. It had a fine honeycomb-like pattern that I can definitely see would interfere with the beads evenly spreading around. As a result, there was a good amount of black rubber "dust" as well, from this honeycomb texture being sanded off by the beads flying around, further hampering their even distribution. The new Pilot Power 3's I had put on had a very similar texture inside, and the service manager said that's pretty common on sportbike tires. He said virtually any high speed rated tire has this pattern and won't work well with beads or other internal balance media. To make it work, you have to use considerably more media than recommended, up to 3 or 4x as much, essentially to "fill in" the texture and make the tire smooth so it can work as designed. Additionally, he said that they have re-spun worn out tires that were balanced only when new with regular weights, and probably 90% of the time the machine says they're still balanced, so the benefits of constantly re-balancing the tire are rather exaggerated.
I don't remember if the ME880s I ran on the vmax were textured inside or not. I never tried the beads either
I know this is up there with debating motor oil, but this does give some explanation as to the mixed bag of reports from people that try the bead balancing.