winter storage

[maleko89]

Yep, just unplug the 2-pin connector for the fuel pump. Remove the top cover and seat and you follow the wires from the pump. I wouldn't do that though, rubber parts will dry out.

Mark
#1098

 

[Robbarrie]

It looks like I'll be doing mine soon again for this year as we just got 5-6 inches of snow yesterday. Here is what I will be doing. Just my 2 cents....

Fill tank, and add stabilizer, top up rad, check tires, lube side walls with silicone spray or armor all, spray wiring. Change oil and filter. Run bike for a minute. Put Max on it's center stand, take seat off for storage in the house, hook up the tender for the battery, cover pipe ends, cover mostly everything with a good thick layer of a good car wax ( and don't rub it in ) and cover it. Give it a nice pat and say goodbye till spring.

:worthy:

 

[113s&s]

Don't drain your carbs. Just fill the tank, put some Seafoam or Stabil in there and run the bike for a few minutes. Then, every couple of days turn the key on to keep the float bowls full. If you have a gel maintenance free battery then no need for a charger. Give you bike a good wash, cover the ends of the exhaust with a bag/rubber band, cover the bike and you're done!

Mark
#1098

so no need to take the battery out..i never did with any of my other bikes..i look at all the stuff blocking the battery and say what the hell..i guess if battery level is low id have to take and move aside all the stuff anyway...next battery will be a gel

 

[hubeerjw]

Good tips guys. On my boat, (4.3L GM/Mercruiser) I also "fog" the engine with a spray oil. Get the engine set a little above idle and spray the fogging oil right into the carbs/intake until the engine actually dies. The theory is that the fogging oil will coat the innards with a very fine coat of oil for storage. I have been doing this for 5 years now, and it has started right up each spring. Does anyone have any experience with doing this on the VMax?
I agree with 4GASEM, change your oil... it will get acidic! Large OEMs in the automotive and construction fields are running into that problem trying to meet Tier 4 emissions and exhaust gas recirculation.... that compounds the situation making for very acidic oils. We don't need to worry about this with our '85 technology, but it will eventually be coming. 4GASEM, why do you say no to Stabil? Just wondering.

Jeff

 

[4gasem]

Good tips guys. On my boat, (4.3L GM/Mercruiser) I also "fog" the engine with a spray oil. Get the engine set a little above idle and spray the fogging oil right into the carbs/intake until the engine actually dies. The theory is that the fogging oil will coat the innards with a very fine coat of oil for storage. I have been doing this for 5 years now, and it has started right up each spring. Does anyone have any experience with doing this on the VMax?
I agree with 4GASEM, change your oil... it will get acidic! Large OEMs in the automotive and construction fields are running into that problem trying to meet Tier 4 emissions and exhaust gas recirculation.... that compounds the situation making for very acidic oils. We don't need to worry about this with our '85 technology, but it will eventually be coming. 4GASEM, why do you say no to Stabil? Just wondering.

Jeff

Seafoam does everything StaBil does and more! :thumbs up: We use it in everything from my Dads M5 to my Honda lawnmower! Awesome stuff... :banana:

Fogging a bike is much harder unless it's a thumper. How do you spray all four carbs at the same time? I just leave mine in my parents climate and moisture controlled basement... :whistlin::coolgleamA:

When I park it, it won't get started till it's ready to ride in the spring. Unless you're able to ride it and bring it to running temp for 30 minutes you are doing more harm than good by starting it. Ever see the moisture coming out of an engine? It condenses inside it if it isn't baked out.

 

[Mait]

Hi,
I am a new owner of an 07-VMax, looking for winterizing tips. This thread is quite useful and answered most of my questions but I am still worried how do I connect the charger, the terminals seem buried so deep and difficult to reach. Wondering if any of you could post a picture or provide a youtube link to give me some idea.
Thank you very much.
Mait

 

[Fire-medic]

Use the deltran battery tender remote lead to give you an easier point of plugin for your battery tender.

 

[likembikem]

Someone on here (I think) said they add a cap full or two of synthetic two stroke oil (Stihl) to a full tank with stabilizer. It keeps the o rings and rubber parts flexible. I don't know if it works, but I have been doing it ever since I read that. I also read on another forum (single cyl. dirt bikes) said Seafoam was bad, Stabil good since Seafoam contains alcohol. The guy said he was a chemist (?) myself..I use Seafoam. On the charger subject; go ahead and connect a plug for a battery tender. It will be useful also for phone charger too. Do not use a charger but a smart charger that will cycle as the battery needs it instead of constant charging. I do start and ride mine at times during the winter. But for those who don't or really can't not running it I have heard is best (kinda goes against what I would have thought) But the now retired Goldwing guru that wrote for MCN and the Winger mags said not to run after putting up for winter. I would also say top the tank all the way, leave no bare tank sitting. The gas in the bowls; I have heard people believe both ways, dry and leave full.