Wow battery thanks for nothing!!

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98jpvmax

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Pretty lame figured i would throw the battery in my Max today, i charged it up 3-4 weeks ago out of the bike its been in my basement all winter, get all hooked up and in the bike, turns over about 4-5 times!!! put 50amp boost on it about the same, battery worked fine last summer not sure how old it is but doesnt look very old, batteries can be so sickining especially when they cost $80-100 at least now adays , ruined my day thought O this will be cool weathers nice fire it up and what not but NO:bang head: so left battery in bike and put 10amp charge on it now so just waiting now:confused2:
 
You said you had the battery sitting in your basement all winter? Was it sitting on the ground by any chance?
 
No it was some carpet, but it mustve just needed a little charge just went out there and it fired right up, purrs like a kitten!!! sweet, just be a little inpatient i guess
 
3rd season, never trickle charged. Only charged when new before install. Fires my 89 up
quick in unheated trailer mid winter. I hope they're still available. Advise you check it out.
Steve-o

UB12220 Universal 12 Volt UB12220B1 1 42.95
22AH Battery
(Shipped)
UPS Tracking Number:
1ZA70T540399152530
Subtotal 42.95
Shipping 16.77
Tax 0.00
Total 59.72
 
You said you had the battery sitting in your basement all winter? Was it sitting on the ground by any chance?

The sitting on the ground thing is a myth. All lead acid batteries discharge over time without being hooked up to anything. The smaller the battery the the less capacity it has so the quicker it discharges. Thats why it is recommend to have a trickle charger on the battery when the battery is sitting.
 
The sitting on the ground thing is a myth. All lead acid batteries discharge over time without being hooked up to anything. The smaller the battery the the less capacity it has so the quicker it discharges. Thats why it is recommend to have a trickle charger on the battery when the battery is sitting.

+1 to the myth. No reason to use lead acid batteries anymore.
Steve-o
 
Any suggestions for pre season maintience? shaft oil change? oil change obviously, cant wait to get new tires on also to see how it rides also
 
Hmmm, typically I do the following, engine oil, check brake fluid, if dirty change, check anti freeze, check wheel bolts, tire pressure weekly, idle adjustment, carb sync, throttle cables, battery water levels, check rear drive oil, check all hoses for cracks/damage, check fork seals for leakage/along with rear shocks. Pretty much best to go over the whole bike after it has sat for while.
 
I was also wondering when i first got the bike to turn over when the chokes was on it made some loud knocking noise i never heard before, but then i turned choke off and it started up and didnt do it again i ve only had the bike since last fall so mt first experience with this noise
 
Your starting a dry engine it will make noise some oil treatments help but beware it may cause clutch problems
 
The spring thing go through everything. Check top to bottom check bolts, nuts, everything dont assume its ok because it was fine when I parked it. I go through everything put a wrench, socket, allen wrench, whatever test it. I look at it like this its your skin on the pavment if something fails:confused2:
 
So all this time I have been believing a lie!! Doh!!

That myth originated way back around the turn of the (last) century when lead acid batteries had rubber cases that would in time slowly allow the acid to seep through, and lose charge if the moisture found an electrical path to ground. It's one of those myths that at one point was true but is now long outdated, same boat as the "put car in neutral going down hills" to save fuel. It's true for carbureted motors, but not for anything with EFI post-1980. Nissan thought that up in the late 70's with the Z260 I believe, it shuts the injectors off when the vehicle's speed keeps the engine turning above the set idle, so you are using no fuel at all. But these sort of things keep getting passed around in man caves and never seem to die off.



With thick oil in cold weather you'll get some clatter in the period it takes oil to get up to the heads. Not a big concern, unless you hear the "dry" noise during extended idling or at every startup. Don't use automotive oil additives in wet-clutch engines, most contain special friction modifiers that will shorten your clutch life. Stuff like slick50 is a no-no.

-Check wheel bearings/swingarm for play. Any noticeable wiggle is too much.
-Change engine oil if mileage dictates.
-Change pumpkin oil. Yamaha says every 15k, I just do it at the start of each season since you get about 6 changes from a $8 bottle of gear lube and it takes about 5 minutes start to finish.
-Sync carbs
-Remove brake pads, inspect, replace if needed. Don't try and peek in there with a flashlight, actually remove the pads to check for damage or irregular wear.
-Inspect calipers and lines for any "wetness" around fittings or pistons.
-Check brake/clutch MC fluid level, top up as needed.
-Check tire pressure. 32 front/36 rear.
-Check coolant level, top up if needed.
-Check major battery connections and grounds for corrosion, clean if needed.
 
interesting. not sure i agree about the neutral thing on my blazer. if i put it in N going down a hill the instant mpg will jump up to 80 or 90 mpg. understandbly since if i leave it in gear the engine slows down the car. even if its 2x the idle speed it makes sense since 600 rpms (idle) uses less gas than 1200 eh?
 
even if its 2x the idle speed it makes sense since 600 rpms (idle) uses less gas than 1200 eh?

Yep. If the "reverse" torque from coasting down a hill keeps the engine spinning at 1200, you are using no fuel at all. Zip, nada, zero. The injectors are off if the gas pedal is released. Most displays max out at 99mpg, and you may show 80-90 if it's idling down a hill, but I bet it'll show 99.9 if you just let it coast in gear, since now the denominator of it's speed/fuel calculation is zero.

If you put it in neutral, you lose the reverse torque, the engine falls to idle speed, and the ECU has to fire the injectors to keep it running at the set idle. Now granted an idling EFI motor uses very little gas.....around a half gallon per hour for a typical V8, so we're talking a few drops, but it's one of the reasons EFI cars get better mileage than carbed....the coasting fuel shutoff. A few drops saved a few thousand times ends up to an extra couple mpg.

Some cars it's easier to notice than others. Next time you come to a stop light, carefully watch the tach(note the normal idle beforehand). As you coast and lose speed, the engine speed will fade as well. On my 5.4 Ford, that hot idles around 600rpm, as the needle hits about 550 you can see it suddenly "twitch" back up again as the engine is re-fired, since the ECU noticed the car's momentum is no longer sufficient to keep the engine turning. Modern cars have made this virtually invisible.

On my buddy's old 260Z it's not quite as transparent. If you're coasting, and then step on the gas, there's a noticeable lurch as the motor comes back on.
 
i was saying the opposite on my 03 blazer. if i leave it in gear going down a hill maybe i'll get 35-40 mpg. once i put it in N it climbs then maxes out at 99 mpg.
 
I was also wondering when i first got the bike to turn over when the chokes was on it made some loud knocking noise i never heard before, but then i turned choke off and it started up and didnt do it again i ve only had the bike since last fall so mt first experience with this noise
I have heard that same sound when using the choke. It sounds funny to me also. I was sorta worried that something was hitting inside the motor. But the sound will go away as you remove the choke before the motor starts. After it starts the sound is gone. To me it sounds like something metal hitting metal.
 

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