yet more wobble info

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wow, finally a non voodooey solution. and by that i mean, a well presented argument not supported by hunches.

the intro seems to explain dannymax's (and other's) claim about changing out the front tire curing his wobble.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
What are thoughts on the following statement he made??? 20 thou gap.

Quote [ Though you probably found the locknut jammed against the tensioning nut, that's not the correct way to install it. It should beclose to the tensioning nut, but not jammed against it. Leave a little space -- about 0.020". Then bend the locktabs into the locknut to keep the two interlocked. The locknut's job is to isolate the torque of the bridge nut from the steering bearings] unquote
 
The gap is larger on the oem setup and controlled by the rubber washer.

The adjustment technique is not much different then the bounce test. He's just using a fish scale to determine the amount of pull required which will vary depending on many factors he didn't include (wheel weight being one of them).

Sean
 
I agree sean, plus cables and lines get in the way pretty good too.
 
My wobble was caused by the old tire. It was old and lost some of its shape and was causing the handlebars to shake when decelerating.
New Bridgestone tire -> no wobble -> I am a happy camper (minus $125 from my wallet)
 
My wobble was caused by the old tire. It was old and lost some of its shape and was causing the handlebars to shake when decelerating.
New Bridgestone tire -> no wobble -> I am a happy camper (minus $125 from my wallet)
Ive experienced the same thing. I did the furbur fix,fork brace & a Hyper Pro fork damper. The dam thing will still wobble when the front tire starts to wear out.:bang head:

 
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