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1,850 miles, perfect shape. Upgrades include fork brace, frame brace, headlight upgrade, SASY Vboost controller, crash bars, K&N Filter and lower temp thermostat. Has backrest and windscreen. New Metzler tires and battery. Has only ever had non-oxy fuel. Carbs have been synched every year, and...

I've got the SASY, and I am constitantly adjusting it. When riding around town, I have it on the low range. Before I get on the freeway, I bump it up to 6000. There is no 7000 setting, but you can turn it off. I don't think that will work for you, though.

FYI- when cold outside, I set the Vboost to 1,800 rpm, and that eliminated the cough. When it warmed up, I set it back to 4,500 rpm, and it's been running fine.

That I haven't checked yet. I'll try that next. Thanks much.

No leaks. Plugs look good and clean. Not fouled or buned. I synced the carbs every year, so that should be o.k. I bought the bike after it sat for 3+ years with stale gas. I had all the carbs professionally rebuilt. Not sure if the mixture screw plug have been removed.

Fluid is new synthetic. I've bled it properly. Not sure how to adjust a lever on a hydraulic clutch.

I bought a 2001 two years ago with 750 miles. The clutch has always held onto gear when warm, and has been difficult to shift into neutral. Over the winter, I had a bike shop take a look at it, and they found 5 of the clutch plates stuck together. They separated them and soaked them in oil...

I bought a 2001 two years ago with 750 miles. Ever since that time, the carbs will "cough" every now and then. I've had the carbs rebuilt, tuned, run Sea Foam every now and then, and have never run oxygenated fuel. I rode today in very cold weather (25 degrees), and it was coughing like...

Mine comes on almost to the top line. At that point, it's idling and running like crap, so I was trying to get it to stay cooler in the temp range. I try to avoid traffic as well, but get caught a half dozen or so times a year.

Does that come on a bit cooler than the stock switch?

Looks like I wasted $40. I don't think the Outlaw piece is needed in MN, except for a few weeks. If it came on after the midpoint, I think it'd be o.k., but it comes on about a quarter inch short of the midpoint on the temp gauge. You might as well have the fan come on and stay on. If...

Does your fan switch still work as usual? If so, do you just jumper across the two leads?

Does anyone have any experience with the Vmax Outlaw fan switch. I just put one in, and it seems to come on very early (a bit over a quarter on the temp gauge).

That was it. Just had some Metzlers put on a month or so ago. They were at 30-32. I pumped them up to 42, and that took care of it. Thanks guys.

I know this is a little off topic, but I figure one of you guys might know. I have the superbrace and frame braces. I've noticed at very low speeds (under 30) and going around corners over small bumps, the front end likes to wobble. I'm guessing it's because of the mods, but I'm thinking...

I'd love to run the lower octane, but only the premium gas has no ethanol in MN.

It used to cough much more with it on. It seems to run much better with it off. I'm assuming it was running rich, but I'm not sure.

Sorry, not quite sure of the last response. My bike coughs up the carbs sometimes, but I need to notice if the engine's warm or cold. For some reason, I think when it's warmed up, but I could be wrong. I have a K&N and the T removed from the airbox. Am I running rich or lean? What do I do...

I have a 2001, and get 35.7 in the city (I keep pretty close track). Only mods, if you can call them that, is K&N and removed the T cover off the airbox, and SASY Vboost which is turned off 90% of the time. I tend to drive it pretty mildly. I also never run oxy fuel, so that helps.

Is the Carb Tune II the best for tuning? I'm in the market, and am wondering what I should buy.