Fuel in the airbox

N34stryker · Jul 28, 2015

OK. So relatively new here and new to carbs. I am doing the shotgun method because my vmax has started popping and backfiring on light throttle and deceleration. I bought bike used and the dealer said they cleaned the tank and carbs. The tank does appear to be rust free from what I can see. When I took the filter box cover off I noticed there were wet spots and it was definitely fuel Is this normal? No idea how to inspect or adjust float bowels or anything. I'm learning as I go. Also, the right rear cylinder (closest to right knee) had a fairly rusty and crud covered air/fuel mixture screw. I cleaned it up. Carb diaphragms look like new. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

blaxmax · Jul 28, 2015

Also try peashooter.

davesax36 · Jul 28, 2015

Hit the carbs with a mallet to see if you've got a stuck float.

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Traumahawk · Jul 28, 2015

Well it is common to get moisture in the airbox because its also plumbed into the crankcase vent. It kinda depends how much. If its so full that its dripping out, and thats a seperate issue, and will need to be looked into. If its just covering the bottom, to where you just see the moisture, its normal. Ive seen that in mine for years.

N34stryker · Jul 28, 2015

Thanks for the quick reply. So now I'm an idiot for another reason. Finished the job.and bike idles awesomely and no popping on deceleration. However, my ADD (squirrel!) made me lose count on my first a/f screw. Seemed about the same as the front right. I got 63 1/8th turns. The opposite side carbs were 85 1/8ths out. That seemed wrong and since I didn't know the first one, I put them all at 63. Now I feel as if I castrated my bike. Seriously feels down on torque and hp significantly. Any ideas where I should go from here? In our out? Stock vmax with k&n and supertrapp slip ons. I've only had the bike for a few months and have done fluids, plugs, seafoam, and now shotgun. Thanks!

DMAN999 · Jul 28, 2015

My A/f Screws are all between 2 to 2-1/4 turns out from all the way in lightly seated.
2-1/2 out is a good place to start and then ride it and adjust them from there.
I have thei ame set up, K&N filter in stock air box with Supertrapp Slip-ons.

PS
63 - 1/8 turns is equal to almost 8 full turns out.
85 - 1/8 turns is over 10 full turns out and if that is what you did the screws aren't even threaded into the opening.
The screws will fall out at around 5-6 full turns out IIRC.
So are you telling us your A/F screws are ready to fall out on the side of the road somewhere ? LOL
Even if you have them at 4 full turns out that's way too far out and you have other carb issues to work on.

N34stryker · Jul 28, 2015

Dude, don't judge me ADD is a disease. Just kidding. Actually I counted the screwdriver edges on the handle so they were 1/12th of a turn. Regardless, I put them in and backed them out 2 and 1/4 full turns. Bike stumbled a little off idle. Turned another 1/4 and it seems OK. I haven't ridden it yet to see if the power is back, think that was the issue?

DMAN999 · Jul 28, 2015

It could very well been a big part of the issue.
I personally put a mark on all 4 sides of the screw driver I use for my A/F screws with a permanent marker so the turns are easier to count.

marsmax85 · Jul 28, 2015

plus 1 and I sync my carbs every spring whether needed or not cause I just need too ..

Fuel in the airbox

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