Darksunshade
Member
Good afternoon guys I was wondering if anyone has ever tried running with a 17 mm bore master and if that works okay.
17mm Bore for master cylinder
- Thread starter Darksunshade
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It's going to increase lever effort significantly as well as be more "on" or "off" with far less feel.
Sean
Sean
Darksunshade
Member
Okay to me sounds like its worth to try. I'm just worried about the clutch and wanting to make sure that it fully engages and disengages properly.
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Well-Known Member
I would think it would work ok on the clutch. Dont be surprised if it's pretty hard to pull the lever.
Also, it may actuate at the end of the lever travel, as in far away from the grip.
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Also, it may actuate at the end of the lever travel, as in far away from the grip.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Darksunshade
Member
Thank you for that input! I don't mind the increase in lever pressure since most of motorcycles I have ridden are old project motorcycles that have ridiculously heavy levers compared to modern bikes.
I won't be getting a 17mm bore then because I like when my clutch engages closer to the grip.
So my question changes, will it be better to actually get a smaller bore to achieve a closer engagement to the grip? also what size of bore will be better for what I'm trying to achieve. 14mm? 12mm?
I won't be getting a 17mm bore then because I like when my clutch engages closer to the grip.
So my question changes, will it be better to actually get a smaller bore to achieve a closer engagement to the grip? also what size of bore will be better for what I'm trying to achieve. 14mm? 12mm?
Here's some reading for you about clutch ratios and how the lever travel and feel are affected by changing the ratio.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17036&highlight=clutch
http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
The second link is shown in Max Midnight's post.
You will have a better understanding about the stock bore size of the master cyl and how that relates to the number of pistons in your brake system serviced by the master cyl. You can also calculate what size bore you need if you change from single opposed pistons (two pistons opposite each other) to double opposed pistons (two pairs of pistons, four in all, for each brake rotor serviced, for a total of eight pistons serviced by one front master cyl.).
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17036&highlight=clutch
http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
The second link is shown in Max Midnight's post.
You will have a better understanding about the stock bore size of the master cyl and how that relates to the number of pistons in your brake system serviced by the master cyl. You can also calculate what size bore you need if you change from single opposed pistons (two pistons opposite each other) to double opposed pistons (two pairs of pistons, four in all, for each brake rotor serviced, for a total of eight pistons serviced by one front master cyl.).
Darksunshade
Member
I'm not a great reader so im pretty sure i missed a lot of points from your links but from what I have gathered the best size is the stop size on a stock set up.
Just post-up what you propose to do before buying anything & members will help you avoid mistakes.
The early Yamaha R1 blue dot or gold dot calipers, the late FZR 1000 6-piston calipers are easy bolt-on upgrades. Stainless steel brake hoses, HH pads and fresh DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid is the inexpensive way to improve your brakes. That, and practicing threshold braking at a track day or on a deserted road, to improve your bike handling.
Sean Morley (Morley's Muscle) sells a Suzuki 6-piston kit which includes caliper brackets.
The early Yamaha R1 blue dot or gold dot calipers, the late FZR 1000 6-piston calipers are easy bolt-on upgrades. Stainless steel brake hoses, HH pads and fresh DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid is the inexpensive way to improve your brakes. That, and practicing threshold braking at a track day or on a deserted road, to improve your bike handling.
Sean Morley (Morley's Muscle) sells a Suzuki 6-piston kit which includes caliper brackets.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Oem is 5/8 which is nearly equal to 16mm.
Your looking for clutch, not brakes, correct?
To me, 14mm is bordeline too small. I ran one for a bit (from a concours and fjr) that had an adjustable lever. I had to keep it adjusted out pretty far. If I tried to get it close to the bar, it didn't travel far enough to fully disengage the clutch.
I switched to a radial master from a zx14 and find it it be my favorite of what I have tried. I've used oem, fjr, concours and now zx14.
I do have a 14mm clutch master from a gen1 hayabusa if your interested. It's designed for bars that have more of a downward slope than oem vmax bars
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Your looking for clutch, not brakes, correct?
To me, 14mm is bordeline too small. I ran one for a bit (from a concours and fjr) that had an adjustable lever. I had to keep it adjusted out pretty far. If I tried to get it close to the bar, it didn't travel far enough to fully disengage the clutch.
I switched to a radial master from a zx14 and find it it be my favorite of what I have tried. I've used oem, fjr, concours and now zx14.
I do have a 14mm clutch master from a gen1 hayabusa if your interested. It's designed for bars that have more of a downward slope than oem vmax bars
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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