1996 r/r running 18.08 volts at 2500rpm?

[blaxmax]

Bike is 1985 and I just hardwired a 1998 r/r with a 30amp fuse to the battery. Ground went to the neg battery post.
Followed RAWarriors thread to the "T" and even mounted in the same location where the old coils were. I get 12.62 when turned off but when I rev to 2500rpm I get 18.08?

Sorry, Volts not amps.

 

[Miles Long]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

The "regulating" mode of the RR is supposed to limit output to just less than 15 volts, I believe. You will cook your battery, possibly other components @ 18v.
The only test for the RR in the Electrosport chart is for the diodes.
I would say that you have a defective unit. From most accounts the "Mosfet" style of RR is superior to the diode type. Several forum members are using them. I'm sure they will eventually post to this thread.
Cheers!

 

[Miles Long]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

Here ya go, Blax.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2463&highlight=Mosfet

 

[thor_eyerdhal]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

Amps or volts??

 

[Fire-medic]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

Amps or volts??

Yep, sounds like a typo. Volts it should be.

 

[davidon]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

I know the R1 R/R is the most common substitute replacement. What are other bike model possibilities?

 

[Fire-medic]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

I believe any bike which has an electrical system similar to ours in voltage and alternator/generator output should work. Since there aren't 6 volt systems in use, or positive ground systems, that leaves almost any MOSFET unit suitable as a donor.

 

[marsmax85]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

A fews years back my voltmeter read that high turned out I needed to replace voltmeter battery and r/r on my 85'

 

[davesax36]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

Didn't someone use a zx-14 spec one a couple years ago?

 

[Redbone]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

"The R/R units that use Mosfets and run cooler, plus they’re more efficient. So if your stock R/R unit has burned out, maybe it’s time to move to a newer Mosfet type unit as shown here. Mosfet R/Rs model names start with the letters FH. Old type models start with SH. "
Look for a Shindengen FH012aa for an late 90's early 00's R1/R6 whereas the Shindengen FH020aa are what R1/R6's started using around 2008- 2010 to present. I picked up a used one from a Yamaha Rhino UTV and it works fine.
Here are some on EBAY: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...C0.A0.H0.Xfh012.TRS0&_nkw=fh012aa&_sacat=6000

 

[sdt354]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

I know the R1 R/R is the most common substitute replacement. What are other bike model possibilities?[/QUOT

I really like the Venture stator driving the later model Vmax R/R Tom. Under full load, fan on & accessories (phone, electric gloves) I still get decent charging voltage. It holds its own at idle too.
Steve

 

[blaxmax]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

Thanks for the thread Miles, Thor that is correct it is volts sorry I've been back and forth with the multimeter ever since I bought this thing.Thanks Mars I'll try a new meter battery. Davesax36 that was RAWarrior with the zx14 and the thread I was following.Thanks for that info Redbone. Fire-medic and Steve-o looks like I'm going mosfet with a venture stator, much appreciated.
The r/r was replace with the smaller same type right before i bought it as he left the receipt under the seat. Battery is the Apex as it is free. 430cc amps.
After reading RAWarriors r/r thread I was at the 4.2 part of the guide and it states checking the stator wires (.5 to 1.1 ohms) mine (all 3) checking different ones at different times were 2.2 ohms.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Re: 1996 r/r running 18.08 amps at 2500rpm?

I know the R1 R/R is the most common substitute replacement. What are other bike model possibilities?

Any. They work the same way. The easier ones are the ones with the furukawa connectors as you can buy new male connectors and make a lead or just crimp the terminals and connect them though this is the least perfect way

 

[blaxmax]

Batteries in multimeter are 9.8 volts.Checked volts at idle 14.60's.
At 2500rpm it still climbs to high 17.90's low 18.00's.
Stators wires all 3 every combination 1.9 ohms.
Anyone think I'm going to need a new stator?

 

[Bill Seward]

Doubtful its a bad stator. They put out a lot higher voltage than 18.. The regulator in the R/R unit is supposed to drop the high voltage from the stator to a constant (or nearly constant) voltage. The rectifier part changes the 3 phase AC from the stator to DC. If you are getting overly high output from the R/R, I'd think it was faulty, before I'd blame the stator. I'd also think 18 volts would at least pop the headlight bulb, if not fry every electronic component. Use your voltmeter on your car, and see if that voltage is screwy.. My '85 is charging 14.5 to 14.6 volts, and the headlight is crazy bright, running through relays. I'd think 18v would immediately burn the bulb out.

A question.. Does the R/R rectify the AC from the stator to DC before it drops the voltage?

 

[Bill Seward]

RM Stator sells the Furukawa connectors for Shindegen units on Amazon for $14.95 free ship in case anyone needs a set.. Just checked, they are still there.

 

[blaxmax]

Meter checked out good on the car and batteries are good in the meter.I'm not sure about the ac/dc question Bill? Damn I hate electronics.I just hardwired the 1996 r/r from a vmax. The stator shows 1.9ohms on every combination of wires. Here is what it does now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfRoNwcDtas

 

[blaxmax]

I assume it's a regulator?

 

[one2dmax]

99 out of 100 times the voltage regulator on these bikes goes bad before the stator does.

 

[blaxmax]

Thank you, sean.