Barnett spring conversion question

[Chief Gunner]

Well I set about re-building the clutch on my '06, (the OEM one was TOAST) so I went with the Barnett spring conversion because I tried the Double D once and it rubbed on the inside of my clear UFO case cover.

When I was doing the job and put the Barnett pressure plate on, I noticed it has teeth in oposable sections that I think are supposed to engage the teeth & grooves on the clutch boss but it does not slide down on the end of the Clutch boss and engage the teeth in the Clutch Boss like the OEM pressure plate did .

Even after rotating it to see if it will bottom out on the Boss, it will not, the inside diameter is too small....

'Im frustrated because I really can't finish right now until my Slave Cylinder kit gets here (the oil seal and piston are toast) Discovered that after trying to bleed...another story but I'll get it fixed, easy one there.

The Barnett presure plate has the "SR-2" part no. on it. I'm really beginning to wonder if this is the wrong part for my bike. ...

With the Barnett plate on the hub and bolted down there is a gap between the edge of the pressure plate and the outside friction disc... the OEM hub is nice & snug.

 

[Rhoy Carter]

That may very well be the wrong pressure plate. My Barnett pressure plate fit perfect.

 

[Chief Gunner]

Whew,,I was worried there for a bit but I found the issue....a few small metal burrs on the clutch hub (probably there since it was cast) were preventing it from sliding all the way in. So I used a small flat jewlers file and some 1000 grit emery cloth strips to smooth them out and she slid on like she is suppposed to.

Now I just gotta re-build the Slave Cylinder. I took it out and sure enough the oil & piston seals need to be replaced. It was sticking badly. I'll make sure to hone out the cyclinder when I re-build it so it moves nice & smooth like it's supposed to.

THANKS TO EVERYONE HERE FOR PROVIDING GREAT TIPS AND SHARING TECH INFO!!!

I'm learning allot and "working smarter not harder" on getting my bike to where I want it.

 

[one2dmax]

The seals rarely go bad on their own. If they are all swolen up then something contaminated them which is usually done by oil. That could mean you need to replace the oil seal in the block which is under the slave and easy to replace while you are in there.

Sean

 

[GREEN light BLITZ]

Hahaha couldn't resisnt the Barnett after our last encounter huh Gunner? I think you're ganna be real happy with it, looks great too with your clear clutch.

 

[Chief Gunner]

The seals rarely go bad on their own. If they are all swolen up then something contaminated them which is usually done by oil. That could mean you need to replace the oil seal in the block which is under the slave and easy to replace while you are in there.

Sean

Thanks Sean; Yeah the seals on the slave are jacked, the piston was really sticky when I took it out which may have contributed to the frying of the clutch. thinking it was getting stuck somewhere between full engaged and dis-engaged. Weird thing is I did not notice any leaks but there are stains on the crossover pipe, probably was leaking a bit and was burning off on the pipe.

It looks like the seal on the block is ok but I'm not gonna chance it, ordered a new one and a no. 1 rod too. My clymer manual sucks, does not show how to get it out so I got a factory manual / CD on the way.

Once I get the clutch , slave and all the lines done it will be time to move onto some carb and exhaust work :th_image003:

 

[Chief Gunner]

Hahaha couldn't resisnt the Barnett after our last encounter huh Gunner? I think you're ganna be real happy with it, looks great too with your clear clutch.

Thanks, been getting a few things done to her since our ride back in May. After talking to you guys and seeing the differences in how your bikes rode I had to start somewhere;

I started with the progressive springs,shocks and now onto finishing the clutch and will be replacing all the lines next.

I have not decided on how radical I want to get yet but will be doing my homework so I can squeeze a few more ponies out of her down the road (without a complete tear-down and build on the motor).

I'm pretty good with Carbs (after owning dirt bikes for allot of years) and I had a 750 Maxim once so they dont' intimidate me too much, still have a monometer for synching them up. I may need some help when it comes to matching up a good valve train to go with a mild / semi wild cam later.:biglaugh:

 

[Chief Gunner]

SOB!!!!MF'ER!!!!

I got the gaskets and parts in in I needed after having to re-build the slave cylinder (thanks again guys for the tips). I also got the new spiegler lines :front & rear brake and clutch line installed, all bled down and was feeling happy. ...

So I go to put the clutch all back together .I have all new Steel OEM plates and friction discs, both new push rods, oil seal, steel ball, lock washer and nut to go with my Barnett spring conversion...as I'm putting everything back in and anticipating a "Shakedown Ride" I hear a "CRACK..... Ka Plunk" behind the pressure plate.....I take it off and find this..

Damn stud on the clutch Boss broke off, I was using a good Snap on torque wrench too set to the specs in my manual. So I'm $103 shorter and waiting for Bike Bandit to get me my new Boss. I Think I need a Beer now.

 

[GREEN light BLITZ]

Feelin ya gunner...while taking mine off to split the case my buddy broke 2 of those off...so ontop of EVERYTHING else I get to buy I need that now too!!!

 

[dannymax]

Definitely a bummer Chief....have a couple beers! :bang head:

 

[tugla]

shit man that sucks, it broke when you were tightening the nut?

 

[one2dmax]

If you ever need good used versions of those I am sure I can help. Looks like someone held the basket via those studs when torquing the big nut down. I sell the tool to do that with too. BUT, I don't use it - only the impact.

Sean

 

[Chief Gunner]

Thanks for the assit offers and the sympathy LOL. The stud snaped while I was tightning the Barnett pressure plate on, I use my "Motion Pro" Clutch tool to hold the boss when tightning the nut.

I did the clutch on my bike at around 14k (it slipped when I bought it used back in '07) and it lasted up until now (nearing 30K) so I guess I really can't complain too much. I have been known to ride her pretty hard from time to time.

I really am just surprised how one thing led to another with this project. Damn the only used parts in my whole clutch will be the primary driven gear, the shaft ,the master cylinder and the slave body when I'm done. Should've moved this to the "Clutch Horror Stories" thread. I'll get her fixed, eventually LMAO. Thinking I should have done it all the last time, also thinking this one will last allot longer once it's all back together.