Bike STILL wobbles at speed

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RaWarrior

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I'm seriously looking at other bikes because I absolutely cannot figure out my Max's extraordinarily annoying tendency to wiggle all over the place as soon as the speedo nudges into triple digit speeds. I bought this bike to go fast and the damn thing refuses to just go straight. Seriously, this is going to make me sell this bike.

I brought the bike to PCW for this issue, and dropped a bit over $500 for new head bearings, internally lowering the forks, and a few other things. Essentially, to fix the wobble. Unfortunately, none if it seemed to make a damn bit of difference. The day I got it back I took it to 130 and was solid as a rock, but every time since it's been just as flighty as always. I've called PCW back, and while John was as helpful as could be, he essentially said they really didn't have any further ideas, and were really backed up with work and couldn't even look at it again for weeks.


Here's everything that's been done
-New OEM steering bearings. Torqued to seat, then backed off via "bounce check"
-Progressive springs
-Forks slid up tree 3/4". Sharpened up the handling, but didn't affect the wobble
- Metz 880 tires. Tires are not cupped and balanced perfectly. Rear is about 50%, front is still probably 3/4.
-Replaced ebay special rear shocks(shorter) with OEMs.
-Billet fork brace
-Frame braces
-Swingarm checked for play/torque....a-ok

I've tried adjusting the torque on the new bearings both ways, to no effect. It's perfectly stable on braking and at moderate speeds, but past 100 or so and it's totally unpredictable. Being someone who enjoys going 100+mph, this is a major problem for me.

What else could possibly cause this? I'm absolutely out of ideas to throw at it, and apparently so is PCW.

The only thing I can possibly think of is the rear tire is plugged...picked up a nail dead center of the tread. However it wobbled before it on brand new tires, and wobbled just the same after.
 
I was having the same problem...my frame is bend :confused2:

Im going to straghten it quite soon enough.
There's a one shop around that using very advanced laser messuring device!
 
Word never got to the street but I'm certain that Yamaha worked on this wobble issue for many years and were unsuccessful in figuring it out. All bikes will wobble on occasion but few, if any, as frequently or violently as the V Max.

It started with the '85 (I had an '85 back in the day which had every wobble going, de-cel, hi-speed....think it would occasionally wobble on the centerstand) and continued thru the entire production run to '07....and nobody has conclusively cyphered out the problem.

Some do.....some don't!! :confused2:
 
Mine had a wobble also, and I thought a new front tire would fix it. (The tire was pretty worn when I bought the bike.) New tire (stock size) made no difference. 8,000 miles later, on a trip, I had to replace the front tire again, and went to the next size up 120/90-18, as the stock size 110/90 was not available. Problem solved. Has been steady as a rock ever since, and I am now on my second 120/90 front tire. Might not work for all cases, but sure fixed my problem.
 
I have wondered why along the way no one tried using the engine in a custom frame & lighter better components, something w/sportier geometry. I know that guy in Germany did his, (Krautzenberger?) but I am talking a soup recipe where you use the custom frame as the $ item & the bike boneyards as the less $ component source. As a starting point you could duplicate geometry from some bike of known handling prowess & proceed from there. Frames are never cheap, but getting wet weight < 500 lbs. & being able to use the throttle judiciously in a corner would go a long way to making the Gen. 1 owners willing to part w/their $$. I would rather do that than bolt on a turbo or supercharger, do a 1500cc motor, USD forks, expensive carbs, etc. As a suggestion, using R1 components from the earlier bikes would mean a readily-avail. source of parts @ local "breakers," as the Brits call them.
 
I have wondered why along the way no one tried using the engine in a custom frame & lighter better components, something w/sportier geometry. I know that guy in Germany did his, (Krautzenberger?) but I am talking a soup recipe where you use the custom frame as the $ item & the bike boneyards as the less $ component source. As a starting point you could duplicate geometry from some bike of known handling prowess & proceed from there. Frames are never cheap, but getting wet weight < 500 lbs. & being able to use the throttle judiciously in a corner would go a long way to making the Gen. 1 owners willing to part w/their $$. I would rather do that than bolt on a turbo or supercharger, do a 1500cc motor, USD forks, expensive carbs, etc. As a suggestion, using R1 components from the earlier bikes would mean a readily-avail. source of parts @ local "breakers," as the Brits call them.
http://www.steelheart-engineering.com/vmaxkit/02.htm
 
Although I haven't run either of mine flat out, both have seen 130-140 on a number of occasions. I haven't touched the 89 and it has no wobble at speed. I do notice a tiny, tiny bit if I am traveling 30 or so and pull my left hand off the bars.

We adjusted my 94 at one of the Tech Days when NaughtyG was here. It ended up a touch too tight and had an annoying wander for a couple days. I backed the nut off may be 1/64th to 1/32nd of a turn and it's been fine ever since.

As far as the difference in my set up and yours???? I run a Sport Windshield, solidly mounted. I learned my lesson from 1200 Sportsters. Their front end becomes very light above 120. The sport shield is just big enough to add some down force to the front end. I angle the windshield so they push down and don't cause a wobble from the wind coming past them or in a crosswind. I have some pictures in my albums that will show the angle...

It's a thought... I would hate to lose you here because of a wobble problem that we can all work on to solve...

Also, I've had this type of windshield to an indicated 147 mph-1 up, 142-2 up. That was on an XJ-1100 and it was rock solid.
 
:punk: Hey RaWarrior, If you have a Computrak near you they can fix the problem. I use them every time to straighten the frames on these Vmax bikes and it stops all problems. These bikes are not aligned when built and can be off quite a bit. Price is about $600.00 and well worth it. They give you a complete lazer print out of what was wrong with your bikes alignment like front and back wheels tipping from top to bottom, not going straight with the bike, and many other things. You will actually be able to turn it when they are done with it. Good Luck, Spurs
 
Each and every time I experience the dreaded high speed wobbles, a brand new BACK TIRE will fix it 100%. I run only the OEM Dunlops and I know they are bad for developing a tiny run-out as they age, but I likes them for the OEM raised white lettering etc. Perhaps radials experience fewer incidences of run-out?
 
ryan, i have two ideas, neither of which i think you will like:

1. steering damper ($200 or $500)
2. radials.
 
I like several posts here.

1] Computrack I think is a #1 idea to try even if you have to take the bike a considerable distance
2] radials & a really-good steering damper can only help in any instance, but w/a misaligned frame (#1) they will mask but probably not cure the problem.
3] the custom frame &/or kit is the ultimate saviour, thanks for that. Not much on pricing on the site, nor info on the VMax kits & their equipment included. I asked for more info, we'll see what gets emailed back. Going to be a shocker in pricing, I am sure. I have a Rickman-Honda so it's a similar idea.

This thread has become one of the most interesting I have seen, thanks for the info, guys.
 
+1 on a new rear tire. Vmax's do not like squared off rear tires at all. If yours is at 50% and is squared off it can/will cause a high speed wobble to develop. Also, re-torque the steering head bearings again once you replace the rear tire. When you change them you have to follow the manual for torque/back off/ re-torque and then ride it for a bit and re-torque again, then do the bounce test. I would bet dollars to doughnuts that your bearings were not fully seated and after some riding and hitting a few nice bumps they seated further in.

Solid motor mounts, radials, and a damper (band-aid for the problem but they work and look cool) are all things you can also do.
 
Yep, sissy bar is like a sail. When I put one on the '99 it created a wobble above 100 mph. I'm going to put the virago bar back on and get a tank bag.
 
C'mon Dan-o, you know that if you have a sissy on your bike it will get loose in the rear :th_butt::rofl_200:

I've always suspected that Jim, and it answers another question that's been frying up my cells for years....'Why the GP bikes don't have sissy bars!!' :rofl_200:

I won't comment on the smillies!! :icon_rolleyes: :biglaugh:
 
Here's everything that's been done
-New OEM steering bearings. Torqued to seat, then backed off via "bounce check"
-Progressive springs
-Forks slid up tree 3/4". Sharpened up the handling, but didn't affect the wobble
- Metz 880 tires. Tires are not cupped and balanced perfectly. Rear is about 50%, front is still probably 3/4.
-Replaced ebay special rear shocks(shorter) with OEMs.
-Billet fork brace
-Frame braces
-Swingarm checked for play/torque....a-ok

The only thing I can possibly think of is the rear tire is plugged...picked up a nail dead center of the tread. However it wobbled before it on brand new tires, and wobbled just the same after.

I always read about the wobble, but have never experienced it at any speed on my '85....only on my buddies '03 at about 110 consistently....he put on a UFO brace and gained 20 mph....new front tire...now he's in front of me:worthy:....I just get the weave every now and then at high speeds....depends which way the wind is blowing:ummm: And we are talking about 140+.....yes...crazy on the Max.........

You should just start with the basics:
-What do you weigh?
-Why go to the OEM shocks? Those could be the problem...they are as bad as the ebay cheapos...unless brand new then only good for a couple K miles.
-What kind of frame brace? Bolt on or welded?
-What kind of fork brace.?
-What tire pressure you running?
-Handlebars...drag bars?
-Stock seat? (changes center of gravity) with diff bars.
-Could be that plug also...belt tire shifted.

Although I never had the wobble, I made sure I'd never have it and did change most of the above......150-155 speedo is norm for me....and I'm 225 decked out.

Answer the ?'s. and go from there, 'cause many a Maxe's have cured the problem without spending their inheritance on the problem.
 
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