I've put 2 seasons on these now and would use them again. The rubber is a little more rigid than OEM's. To compensate I tied 3 coils back on my diaphragm springs. I worked them off with wd-40, feeler gauges, and a tiny screw driver. Putting them on I stretched them a little and tucked them all the way in with feeler gauges again. Some have had luck splitting the slides and gluing them back together. A few guy have cracked the slides using that method.
This is a cost effective replacement for sure. At the time they were about $100 shipped from an E-Bay vendor.
Steve-o
Two methods from our members contributions. I tried both and had better luck w/the grinding than w/Joe's (
alorio1):
http://www.youtube.com/embed/e_LpxYHi5Zg?feature=player_embedded
(from a sticky by
hubeerjw)
(from a post by
alorio1)
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19788&highlight=carb+diaphragm+replacement
Soak slides fully submerged in WD 40 overnight to loosen glue. Then instead of using a screwdriver to knock slide loose from
diaphragm holder, I use a deep well 3/8 drive socket with a 6 inch extension to drive the slide loose from
diaphragm holder instead of a screwdriver which is where most people's failure comes into play. When using a deep well socket inserted into slide, you get even forces 360 degrees around the slide instead of just a sharp screwdriver which will inevitably break the brittle slide component. I don't remove needle from slide because using a deep well socket fits over the screw (needle holder assy) inside the slide. I also use a metal pipe, which happened to be the top rail of a chain link fence I took down and cut off about 6 inches of pipe that I insert slide into while I drive slide away from
diaphragm holder. The bottom of pipe is stuffed with a single paper towel to soften the fall when the slide drops from
diaphragm holder. I use a very small hammer to tap slide loose from holder, usually with a couple of small taps you can see a gap between slide and washers and the rest can be done by hand to finish disassemble. After disassembly I take the aluminum holder to the bench wheel and clean glue residue with wire brush side of grinder, you can also use a piece of fine sand paper to clean glue reside off. After you get holder clean the use a fine piece of sand paper to clean residue from inside the slide, ideally you want to be able to push holder into slide with very little resistance. Reassemble slide and new
diaphragm making sure washers are all facing the right direction. I tack glue new
diaphragm to washer that has grove in it to keep the
diaphragm centered during reassembly. Use oil or petroleum resistant glue of your choice to reassemble (DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE) . I use Devcon metal filler glue which dries in 45 seconds so I have to work fast to have everything in place fast. After applying glue (to aluminum holder only) I insert the holder into slide by hand, making sure it is going in square and not the least bit crooked. I then place slide on a solid flat wooden surface and with the same deep well socket I used on disassembly I place it on the bottom side of the slide and give it a couple of small taps to tighten up washers around newly installed
diaphragm. I then use a small screw driver to clean away any glue residue that may have oozed out.
Attached Thumbnails
I'm glad this has been brought-up as it has made me decide to 'get on the stick' and finish the re-do my slides.
