daves86vmax
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know anything about this brand of friction plates?I saw them on ebay from Python Motorsports.$99.00 :ummm:
Ferodo clutch friction plates
- Thread starter daves86vmax
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naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Yea Ferodo is very popular in Europe. They make most aftermarket brake pads and shoes over there.
Birdoprey
Well-Known Member
The OEM fibers will out last ANY aftermarket fibers. Just ask Lankee!
If you want to upgrade your clutch do the double D mod.
This mod uses stock sandblasted plates and stronger springs.
As birdoprey stated stick with stock plates, wether you stay stock or go with the dd mod
Order your parts from Gary Mccoy at mondak motors, we get good discounts
This mod uses stock sandblasted plates and stronger springs.
As birdoprey stated stick with stock plates, wether you stay stock or go with the dd mod
Order your parts from Gary Mccoy at mondak motors, we get good discounts
daves86vmax
Well-Known Member
Isn't there a custom made ring to accomodate the second spring ring that you add for the DD mod.Who makes it or where can I get one.
RazoR333
Well-Known Member
OK,..so OEM clutch plates are better,...how about the Barrnett clutch pressure plate ,..any advantages other than lookin sweet in a see thru housing? :ummm:
sandy klock
Well-Known Member
With my very limited experience, I think the coil spring setup has better spring pressure adjustability, and less handle pressure. PCW's heavy duty spring works great, but more pres on clutch lever, same as DD, If you are big, and young they both work good. They also wear out clutch lever bushings sooner. I think you can buy a roadstar warrior spring that is same thing, check it out. If you are having problems with stock, replace the half plate with a full one. sandy
Birdoprey
Well-Known Member
Typically, a coil spring setup has a more linear feel whereas a diaphram spring is more on-off. Personally, i like a coil spring setup better for street riding. When dragracing, it depends on the setup. I've setup up bikes both ways with great results. The Barnett pressure plate is very thick and is less prone to warping or wearing unevenly(than other coilspring setups), though a diaphram spring setup normally applies very even pressure and thus is not normally prone to warpage.
Also, i would not be so quick to ditch the factory "jutter" spring setup(very small concave washer on inside of clutch pack that sits inside the innermost fiber). This provides a easier initial bite and also cuts down some on clutch chatter. The latter is usually not noticed just street riding.
I have a Barnett coil spring conversion that i'm installing in my V-max. Really looking foreward to it. I've done it on a FJ1200(150rwhp) and two R1's(99 & 03) with results i was really happy with.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
I have been down this road with clutch plates... I personally will NOT run anything but OEM YAMAHA Clutch components.. I do like the Barnett spring conversion but I hate barnette clutch plates they suck ass in my opinion.. Yes you will pay a little more for OEM clutch plates but they will LAST and WORK
Somethings ya can cut corners on clutch plates arent one.
Somethings ya can cut corners on clutch plates arent one.
RazoR333
Well-Known Member
Hey lankee,..ok, the after market clutch plates "bad"..OEM "good"...got it ,...what about the Barnett"s pressure plate ?,..no difference, or improvement?
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Ya know in my mind a perfect VMAX clutch setup would consist of..
Adjustable Lever / master cylinder from a sport bike such as a GSXR.
Steel Braided Line from the M/C down to the Slave Cyl.
Orient Express Billet Clutch Basket.
Yamaha OEM Plates and Steels.
Barnett Spring Conversion Cap
And about 5 different sets of springs to play around with.
Now that would be a kickass clutch setup..
Guess I will stick with my steel braided line, Piece Of Shit Basket
Double D
OEM Plates and Steels..
For those that bitch and whine about heavy clutch lever with the double D mod... dont go with a steel braided line you will really cry, whine, and powt about the pull.. Just installed my line and tightened up the lever to where there isnt slop or play. BBB takes her 2 hands to pull the clutch in now.
I switched to the Barnett carbon fibre friction plates after my OEM plates seemed to be slipping.
When I disassembled the OEM arrangements there was no obvious signs of why it was slipping UNTIL I looked at the clutch slave cylinder.
The internal rubber 0-ring seals between the hydraulic piston and bucket had degraded to the point that the piston was binding on the gum and not releasing properly.
Because many of the forum members bikes are not high mileage bikes and sit in garages for half the year without fluid changes, degradation and gumming and binding of the o-ring seals and rubber plungers is highly likely to be the most common cause of slipping clutches NOT worn plates.
I suspect that the Double 'D' mod is also often done because of this fault.
The EOM plates are fine. So are the Barnett plates.
However, I have found the Barnett carbon fibre plates tend to rattle a bit in neutral. This is because the last and smaller OEM 'rattle plate' and retaining spring were removed and substituted for a full plate when the swap was done.
The reality is if your hydraulics and seals are good and the bike's motor is pretty well stock. i.e. no MAJOR horsepower gains, the EOM setup is hard to beat.
When I disassembled the OEM arrangements there was no obvious signs of why it was slipping UNTIL I looked at the clutch slave cylinder.
The internal rubber 0-ring seals between the hydraulic piston and bucket had degraded to the point that the piston was binding on the gum and not releasing properly.
Because many of the forum members bikes are not high mileage bikes and sit in garages for half the year without fluid changes, degradation and gumming and binding of the o-ring seals and rubber plungers is highly likely to be the most common cause of slipping clutches NOT worn plates.
I suspect that the Double 'D' mod is also often done because of this fault.
The EOM plates are fine. So are the Barnett plates.
However, I have found the Barnett carbon fibre plates tend to rattle a bit in neutral. This is because the last and smaller OEM 'rattle plate' and retaining spring were removed and substituted for a full plate when the swap was done.
The reality is if your hydraulics and seals are good and the bike's motor is pretty well stock. i.e. no MAJOR horsepower gains, the EOM setup is hard to beat.
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TURBOVMAX
Well-Known Member
Ditto and spot on!
