Fork Rebuild and more... what else?

[bikedave99]

Alright, I have a laundry list of items that I hope to get accomplished this weekend+. I've got my wheels off and just had my Shinko Tourmasters put on. Went with these guys because of lankeeyankee recommendation as well as the fact that the ME880s are hard to get a hold of or even get a lead time on. So, here is what all I have planned:

1) Rebuild front forks with progressive complete control kit from PCW

2) Replace steering head bearings per LvlHead's detailed instructions

3) Replace the swingarm bearings per the service manual (any tips or hints?)

4) Replace all brake pads with EBC HH pads from White Buffalo Racing

5) Reinstall wheels with new tires


So, what else should I be doing or checking while I'm in this far? Also, any tips on the swingarm bearing replacement (or anything else for that matter) would be appreciated as I haven't found anything on the forum yet. I am excited for the improvements I will feel with this round of mods/maintenance!

Also, I plan on taking a lot of pictures and detailing as best I can what I do as I would really like to see more pictorial instructions to help out any newcomers, old timers, or those interested in not getting ripped off by dealer service departments. I am definitely no expert, but I like to get in over my head as often as possible so that I can learn.

Thanks guys for your help!

 

[naughtyG]

any particular reason for replacing both your steering and swingarm bearings? Are they definitely rough/pitted/clicking/broken or anything like that? 'Cos if they're not you're going to spend a lot of time and $$ for very little benefit! You would be better off first removing, cleaning, inspecting and repacking with grease if found to be ok..

Just my 2 cents...

 

[bikedave99]

Those are kinda my thoughts. The steering head is a little notchy, and I'm getting a wonderful wallow in the long sweeping turns while accelerating. So, being a 20 year old bike with 35,000 on the clock I figure while pulling it apart I would rather have the parts on hand if it should require replacement. Especially considering I would only have about $60 in both sets of bearings. I do understand it will take a lot of time however, and I'm prepared for that. But, from what I also understand, if I get those steering head bearings out, I would rather replace them with new then put suspect ones back in...

 

[m-cman]

I recently did everything you are doing and more. Kind of a ground up redo. I replaced every gasket, o-ring, bearing, hose, etc on the bike along with several complete assemblies. The hardest thing is removing the lower race in the triple tree. It is a BITCH!! Took what seemed like hours to Dremer out. It is really hard metal. The drive side rear wheel bearing is kind of tough. I couldn't remove it without destroying it. Next time I will go to AutoZone and check out a blind bearing puller. They only charge a deposit which is refunded when you return the tool. Makes the wheel bearing removal a snap. Except for the lower TT bearing race, I was able to do everything with no problems using the shop manual.

 

[bikedave99]

Thanks for your advice, definitely going to get the puller to help with all accessible bearings. I'm pretty excited about those lower head bearings, and gettin more so all the time! We will what all can be accomplished in a couple days!

 

[maleko89]

+1 to that Don. We used a cutting wheel and that made quick work of it. I didn't want to buy a welder at Harbor Freight for a $100...I'd only use it once. lol

As for the wheels manual says that you have to destroy the bearings to remove. I have the originals in mine so contemplating replacing the wheel bearings. Anybody have a cross reference to Timken bearings?

 

[m-cman]

The normal bearings on the wheels (two front, one rear) remove without damage with the blind bearing puller. I just wanted to replace them. They actually seemed ok. The caged roller bearing on the rear was the one I destroyed removing but I did not have the blind bearing puller for it so don't know it that would work on it or not. It is also much more expensive than the others. I feel that if you are to a certain point, you might as well replace all wear items. They just aren't that expensive compared to the time and labor to get to that point.

I have an air cutting tool but all the discs I had were too big to get to the lower race. I was afraid of doing damage to the steering head / bearing race seat.

The OEM bearings are sealed and weren't too expensive. I tend to buy factory parts as I think they are probably well tested by now.

 

[naughtyG]

I'm pretty excited about those lower head bearings, and gettin more so all the time! We will what all can be accomplished in a couple days!

Well let us know how it goes - I'm interested to see pics of your steering bearings since mine's an '86 and may still have its originals!

 

[bikedave99]

Thanks again for your thoughts guys, I will be ready with my dremel, heat gun, bearing puller, and camera for whatever ensues. Also, thanks Maleko for all you pictorial how-tos! I have a slew of them printed out and ready to do some other things, like check my V-boost, balance my carbs, etc. Also, the time has come to buy an air compressor. I figured that Craftsman's would be good but it seems like they are a mixed bag. I'd like ~10gallons and oiled for longer life and quieter use. What do you guys use?

 

[maleko89]

Anytime!

I have a Craftsman oil free compressor. It goes up to 150 PSI.

 

[m-cman]

The oil-less compressors seem to be a lot louder. They require ear plugs if you are in the same area. My old 1981 Craftsman was much better but I sold it to a friend and regret it. The two I tried since were one from Harbor Freight (not oil-less) and an oil-less Craftsman. Sold the Craftsman because of noise and bought the oil type from HF thinking it would be as quiet as my old Craftsman. NOT SO! It is as loud as the oil-less Craftsman. Both are too loud for comfort. If I ever buy another one, I will test it for noise level before purchase.

 

[dannymax]

Just a cheap 15 gal. 125 psi oil less Coleman Powermate. With decent IR air tools it works fine for all my needs, noisy tho. Someday I plan on getting an IR oil type, but they're pretty expensive.

 

[godsend1]

Ditto

Anytime!

I have a Craftsman oil free compressor. It goes up to 150 PSI.

 

[bikedave99]

Yeah I would love to have a IR or just a cast iron type compressor but they are a little out of my league. I had a lead on an older 15gallon cambell and hausfeld that looked all oily and great but it was already gone. Hmm... well, it'll probably end up being a craftman in the end... might even try to get the extended warranty for what? $20? Might be worth it seeing as there appears to be a lot of lemons out there. Oh well, live and learn.

 

[walktheline]

+1 to that Don. We used a cutting wheel and that made quick work of it. I didn't want to buy a welder at Harbor Freight for a $100...I'd only use it once. lol

As for the wheels manual says that you have to destroy the bearings to remove. I have the originals in mine so contemplating replacing the wheel bearings. Anybody have a cross reference to Timken bearings?

Most likely the bearings are pretty standard, if you give me the timken # I can get a cross reference fairly easily from motion industries (the bearing supplier to the place that I work at)

Brad