Godzilla pooped the bed!

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Got the bike together, and all is well... The bike runs great!
I think the sidestand switch triggers the relay to cut the ignition.
In my case, the relay looks like it fried. It smelled a but burned, and one of the 4 connectors seems to have gotten hot. The copper looked like it had been heated.
In any case, my Max just got about an ounce lighter, as the relay will NOT be replaced. Damn thing is $65.00!
 
Got the bike together, and all is well... The bike runs great!
I think the sidestand switch triggers the relay to cut the ignition.
In my case, the relay looks like it fried. It smelled a but burned, and one of the 4 connectors seems to have gotten hot. The copper looked like it had been heated.
In any case, my Max just got about an ounce lighter, as the relay will NOT be replaced. Damn thing is $65.00!

Yup. One direct and one indirect connections to the ignitor box.
The relay was only used in the '85-'92 model years. All others use just a switch.
Most likely because of too many problems with the relay.
Cheers!
 
85-89 are blue capped relays. 90-07 are black relays and the fix isn't so easy (to simply unplug them).
 
85-89 are blue capped relays. 90-07 are black relays and the fix isn't so easy (to simply unplug them).

Where are the 90-07 relays located? Are they called something other than Sidestand Relays? I checked the diagrams on your website, and couldn't find any relay-looking device directly off the sidestand switch, as in the earlier model years.
Cheers!
 
Left Front bottom corner of the electrical rack. It can be accessed when removing the left scoop, pulling the plastic mounting out of the way, and then look inside. 4 wire connector if I remember correctly.
 
Left Front bottom corner of the electrical rack. It can be accessed when removing the left scoop, pulling the plastic mounting out of the way, and then look inside. 4 wire connector if I remember correctly.

On your wiring diagram, the independant thingy connected to the ignitor is 3-wire, and called an Ignition Advance Unit.
On the Clymer diagrams, it's called a Vacuum Pressure Sensor, and is common to all model years.
Not the first time I've noticed discrepancies between various wiring diagrams.
One thing for sure, if my bike's ignition "poops the bed" as Bill's did, unplugging this module - whatever it's called - will be the LAST troubleshooting item that I will do, given it's location.
Cheers!
 
No, this is farther forward on the rack with a rubber mounting method, and named the starter circuit cut off relay. Trust that I am telling you correct regardless of the way they want to name it.
 
If I run without the sidestand relay, is there a potential for any other problems caused by not having it there? If so, can two of the wires be connected to bypass the relay. Seems odd that removing the relay allows function. I'm thinking that the relay is actuated when the bike is in gear with the kickstand down, so something there must be shunted to ground or something, thus cutting ignition?

UPDATE:
Took the bike around the block in a nasty windstorm. 40 degrees and a bit rainy, too.
The bike was always cold-blooded, and still is, but once it warmed up a bit - it ran great!
 
The removal of the relay will not hurt anything long term in our experience. I believe that is one of the reasons for the wiring configuration change for the 90-07 harness's since you can't do that anymore and have it work.
 
I just got my 2000 vmax started yesterday after having to replace the starter clutch .
The max started after changing out the fuel filter and putting new gas in.

It was running very very nice. Idling and allowing great throttle.

Sadly the clutch cover gasket had a small leak so I drained the oil again and removed the allens to the cover. Well I think this is where the screw up came because I could not remove the clutch cover without removing the other cover along with the shifter and peg. So I gently laid the cover along with the the wires but they seemed to be under some tension.

I got the thing re-gasketed, zipped it back up and this morning I could not get it started. I have a brand new battery, and even had it jumped to my truck. Starter fluid you name it. I finally pulled the spark plugs and bingo NO SPARK. I did the other side and same thing NO SPARK.

Is It possible I damaged something when I let the cover lay with those wires having tension on them. Is there a quick way to check my ignition before I go having to drain my oil again and unzip the clutch cover to see it any of them wires where pulled. This really really sucks. Any advice is much appreciated. I cant help but think I might of pulled something loose with that cover. But the bike did run great yesterday and that was the only change I made.
 
Clutch is on the brake side. Sound like you pulled the mid gear and maybe stator cover.

There are a few connectors in that wire bundle on the left side of the frame.

Pull the side cover off the frame that says vmax. Remove the seat too. Follow the wire bundle and check to make sure all connectors are tight.

Hopefully something that simple.
 
Thanks, Ill do that. Hope its simple too. So many things it could be is the problem with these maxs. Anything from a side stand relay to neutral safety or ignition modules. I had it running 1 day ago so sweetly and now this!!! I'll report back it I can nail down the culprit.
 
Like I said you would be better off starting a new thread on this but if this one works for you then blessings. I cut off my side stand switch and clutch neutral safety switch. I hope MILES doesn't see this.
 
Like I said you would be better off starting a new thread on this but if this one works for you then blessings. I cut off my side stand switch and clutch neutral safety switch. I hope MILES doesn't see this.

HEAVENS TO BETSY!
I'm going to add your continuing good health to my list of nightly prayers, Blax! :biglaugh:
Cheers!
 
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