How do you replace the steering head bearings?

[gleno]

Well I’ve read the service manual and I've searched the forum for a post or set of posts that gives a step by step on how to replace the steering head bearings and it doesn’t seem to exist. :confused2:

There is some general information on assembly disassembly and adjustment but not on replacement.

The bit missing is;

1) Best way to remove the old bearing shells from the steering head. Is there a secret? I’ve seen some threads that say cut the bearing shell with a dremel then tap (bash, smash and bludgeon) the shell out. Hit it with a welder leaving a bead on the shell and it just pops/ falls out…. And apparently the top shell is easy to get out (not).

2) What is the best way to remove whats left of the lower bearing from the steering head shaft?

I don’t want to apply heat to the steering neck and screw up the paint but brute force is getting me no-where.


If I get an answer that works well, I’ll write a complete ‘How to replace the steering head bearings” guide for the forum. :clapping:

 

[KJShover]

Well I?ve read the service manual and I've searched the forum for a post or set of posts that gives a step by step on how to replace the steering head bearings and it doesn?t seem to exist. :confused2:

Found this, but you've prolly already seen it.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2922&highlight=bearings

Once you have the triple out the top is easy to change but the bottom is difficult. Usually you need to weld a bead onto the bottom race and drive it out while it is still warm (hit the newly formed bead you welded on the surface of the race).

The upper race can be driven out from the bottom with no problems usually.

The upper bearing is a simple swap with no tools but the lower bearing is pressed onto the steering stem.

Sean

 

[KJShover]

Here is another set of instructions I found, its for a different bike, but the symptoms are the same.:cheers:

Outer Race Removal:
To remove the outer races grab your torch and Heat the FRAME around the Race (not the race itself). Take care to NOT burn or scorch the Cables/Brake Lines etc. i.e. put some layers of Aluminium Foil Around them or sheet of Aluminium. You CAN drive the Upper race COLD if you have a BFH (BIG HAMMER) and a LONG Drift, but it?s like pulling teeth. You need the Drift in any case. Wear GLOVES, thick cotton Garden gloves or Leather ones.
After applying the heat (Get them good and hot), Grab you LONG Drift and drive the Top Inner Race out from the Bottom, i.e. stick the Long Drift in from underneath, through the bottom of the Steering Headstock and drive the Upper race out of the Top of the Frame. Work your way around the circumference of the race until it pops out. Jean #636 notes: "The drift punch. I really fought hard dislodging the old outer races before using a Drift Punch with a 3/16" point. The one I used was made by DASCO Pro reference number 603-0. I am sure there are other tools you can use but this one made the job really easy. (for the Lower Bearing) the drift has to be at least 8-1/2" inches in length to go all the way through the frame tube."

Removal of the Lower outer Race is the same as for the Upper,

just heat the Lower Frame AROUND the Race and drive it out using a drift placed in from the top, so that you drive the race out the BOTTOM of the (Frame) Headstock.
A good alternative, for those of you with access to a Welder, is to place a bead of weld around the RIM or the INSIDE of the OLD bearing race. When it cools, the bead of weld will try to contract and cause the Bearing to also contract, allowing it to be easily removed from the Headstock.



Inner Race Removal:
The Upper inner race should already be out by now, so this is only relevant to the lower one, which is a tight fit on the shaft.
This one?s a bit more tricky. If you bought a new Gasket Ring (the one under the Bearing) you can both heat and whack that and not worry. Apply heat to the bearing, but clean all the GREASE off it first so it doesn?t smoke you to death and do it in a WELL VENTILATED AREA. Heat it good and hot.
Lie the Steering Head Shaft and forks down on a Bench or on the floor, with the threaded end of the shaft hard up against a Solid Piece of Timber. The threads are very fine so don?t drive against anything metal or concrete. You will damage the threads. Using a drift (or slide hammer if you can get the jaws on) drive the back of the bearing toward the threaded end of the shaft. It?s hard to do without damaging that washer and the Bearing Race MUST Be HOT. Wear Gloves.!
Alternatively, cut a piece of thick foil to shield the lower grease shield. Then place a length of thick walled tubing over the stem and run a weld with a mig welder around the tube/bearing. Then used a hammer and chisel on the weld to force it off.
Don't forget to take off the Rubber Gasket Ring if you damaged it.

 

[KJShover]

And another site that explains thier version and includes diagrams and pictures.

http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/graham_c/Workshop/Steering/steering.htm

 

[gleno]

Thanks for your efforts KJ. :thumbs up:

No-one at Yamaha (at least in the case of my '88) gave much thought to the time when this kind of service work needed to be done because there is no way you can use a drift to drive the bottom shell out. No-one thought to allow a lip or recess inside the steering column that allows you to get behind the shell with a drift (or even a dot punch).

Now for the lower taper on the steering head shaft.

I got the shells out and the lower shell is buggered. I've got some thoughts about this and the causes of headshake problems.

I'm going to enjoy writing this up because I'm making a few simple mods that will allow the bearings to be changed quickly next time.

I do have another question for the forum though.

Does anyone know whether all the V-max models use the same steering head bearings?

 

[KJShover]

Thanks for your efforts KJ. :thumbs up:

No-one at Yamaha (at least in the case of my '88) gave much thought to the time when this kind of service work needed to be done because there is no way you can use a drift to drive the bottom shell out. No-one thought to allow a lip or recess inside the steering column that allows you to get behind the shell with a drift (or even a dot punch).

Now for the lower taper on the steering head shaft.

I got the shells out and the lower shell is buggered. I've got some thoughts about this and the causes of headshake problems.

I'm going to enjoy writing this up because I'm making a few simple mods that will allow the bearings to be changed quickly next time.

I do have another question for the forum though.

Does anyone know whether all the V-max models use the same steering head bearings?

I was thinking about botchering up a slide hammer, that would go up from the bottom, then attach washers to the end, so as to fit the bearings and then try it that way:hmmm:

Pardon my ascii art. but somthing like this:

Hammer -> ={===}========|| <--washers

 

[KJShover]

Does anyone know whether all the V-max models use the same steering head bearings?

I believe they fit all years. Here is a place that sells them.

It shows them as being for '85-'06 Vmax's

http://www.pyramid-parts.com/yamaha-v-max-vmx1200-8506-steering-head-bearings-kit-p-6331.html

 

[gleno]

I believe they fit all years. Here is a place that sells them.

It shows them as being for '85-'06 Vmax's

http://www.pyramid-parts.com/yamaha-v-max-vmx1200-8506-steering-head-bearings-kit-p-6331.html

BIG WARNING: This supplier advertises heavily on Ebay.

I have ordered fork seals and bearing kits from Pyramid parts for the V-max and THEY ARE RUBBISH.

Not only do they not even come close to fitting, they do not carry any of the SD identifications on either the seals or the bearings.

BAD BAD Product

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY.

 

[davidon]

Glen

Easiset way to do it is to borrow or have someone with a wire welder weld a bead around the middle of the bottom race to form a circle around the middle. Then throw some water on it to cool it and it will either fall out by itself or come partially out and then you now have a "shelf" to put a drift on it and tap it out from the top. I've done this about 3 times..no struggling or damage to neck.

PS MAY be coming to OZ next year for a vacation with the family

 

[gleno]

Glen

Easiset way to do it is to borrow or have someone with a wire welder weld a bead around the middle of the bottom race to form a circle around the middle. Then throw some water on it to cool it and it will either fall out by itself or come partially out and then you now have a "shelf" to put a drift on it and tap it out from the top. I've done this about 3 times..no struggling or damage to neck.

PS MAY be coming to OZ next year for a vacation with the family

Thanks for the info. Hope you make it over next year. Keep me posted.

 

[KJShover]

BIG WARNING: This supplier advertises heavily on Ebay.

I have ordered fork seals and bearing kits from Pyramid parts for the V-max and THEY ARE RUBBISH.

Not only do they not even come close to fitting, they do not carry any of the SD identifications on either the seals or the bearings.

BAD BAD Product

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY.

Thanks, Good to know!! :thumbs up:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I got my bottom race out by simply heating the frame gently without even burning the paint but fast enough so that alot of heat didn't transfer to the bearing race.
Rubing an ice cube around the race face right after heating the neck helps too........
I then used a small/short chisel with a very sharp narrow wedge shape and worked it circularly around the groove/seam between the upper edge of the race and the frame/neck face that the race seats against; gently/firmly tapping while going around, trick is to get it to come out evenly without tunring sideways and binding..

They also make small pry bars that have a 90 degree bend on one end that come end hand to fit up inside there to finish the job onnce you create a gap using the first method.

Good luck,

Rusty

 

[Buster Hymen]

I'm pretty sure a blind bearing puller will get it out too.

 

[maleko89]

Buster, I wish. There isn't anything for the puller to pull. Welding or cutting are about the only options.

 

[hubeerjw]

I just removed the races from my 85 project bike and welding a ring is the ONLY way to go!!! Those babies came right out with a few taps. I really do appreciate this forum and all the knowledge it contains!

 

[naughtyG]

Yea I used the Dremel cutting method and it was a BITCH. I wish I'd had the tools for welding..

 

[Noxx72]

I'm pretty sure a blind bearing puller will get it out too.

So I'm like a year late to this thread, but I plan on doing my bearings soon, and I was thinking the same thing. The whole point of a blind puller is that it grabs by friction alone, without any lip or rim to attach to. In fact I read the whole thread thinking "Doesn't anyone here own a blind puller?".

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never seen a blind puller "not" work when working fro the inside of a race.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

So I'm like a year late to this thread, but I plan on doing my bearings soon, and I was thinking the same thing. The whole point of a blind puller is that it grabs by friction alone, without any lip or rim to attach to. In fact I read the whole thread thinking "Doesn't anyone here own a blind puller?".

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never seen a blind puller "not" work when working fro the inside of a race.

The is no inside to grab, the I.D. of the well that the race sits in is smaller than the I.D. of the race, leaving nothing to grab......