Well I guess the engine is coming out. Was riding Saturday on the Blue Ridge Parkway and came through a section of curves and rolled on it pretty good coming out of the last turn, that's when it started. Was knocking pretty good so shut it off and coasted into a overlook, that's where I spent the next few hours waiting on a buddy to bring the trailer. Pretty sure it is a rod. My Max has about 17,000 miles and I have always changed the oil on time, any one else had this happen? Probably get the engine out by this weekend and start tearing it down. Any input on perfromance parts will be great because might as well do some stuff while it is down. Anyone have a service manual for the engine you can scan for me?:bang head:
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4gasem
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
From what I've heard, over reving the motor (which is easy to do) will eat con rods...
Having a shift light and a dyna ignition will help this a lot.
Good luck!
How do you determine which of these is the correct one for your MAX? http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/VMX12-Service-Manual.pdf Is it determined by a digit of the VIN?
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Overall the Vmax motors are very tuff.They can and do take a beating.Carrillo rods will set you back a grand.Crank could be junk from a spun bearing.Hopefully it will be minor damage.Definately time for an exploratory.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Pay close attention and remark with a center punch or something the counter balance shaft timing.The factory marks suck,some kind of paint that is impossible to find.The cam timing is very important too.
Thanks Shawn, something tells me I may be picking your brain. I was thinking of going with Carillo rods for sure. PM me your return address, I still need to return a chrome headlight mount that was in the box with a Corbin seat I got from you. It wasn't mine and I didn't pay for it so I figured you would like it back.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I'll bet that you have the wrong Shawn. Sean Morley does the seats.We both have built motors though.
yea, probably was me since I do chrome stuff! My address is all over so no prob posting it here:
Sean Morley
5811 S. Preston Trail
Derby Ks. 67037
Back to the engine:
Rods are going to be shot though they can be refurbed. There are 2 levels of Carrillo's depending on your needs. An "A" beam version good for 40-50hp per rod and an "H" beam for 50hp and up. I also offer reworked stock rods which I have on hand. We bush the small end with carrillo bronze bushings and resize the big end.
Crank is going to be shot too and either a good used crank (which is hard to find), a new crank (which is kind of pricey), or have yours repaired (which depending on who does it you can have a new crank).
Biggest worry is the block, we are finding that virtually every block we get with spun bearings don't last long before spinning again which we think is attributed to crank thrust journal damage. Thanks to yamaha this is not normally a serviceable surface so you get to scrap the engine. We are setting up tooling right now to repair that surface with a replaceable bearing and adding some oiling to that area too. Tooling and second/third block (first is already done) should be ready to go this week sometime.
I have a couple of good engines if you wanted to get by for less money and would even consider giving you a core charge on yours. Feel free to email me and I'll give you a rundown of what I have left.
Sean Morley
[email protected]
Sean Morley
5811 S. Preston Trail
Derby Ks. 67037
Back to the engine:
Rods are going to be shot though they can be refurbed. There are 2 levels of Carrillo's depending on your needs. An "A" beam version good for 40-50hp per rod and an "H" beam for 50hp and up. I also offer reworked stock rods which I have on hand. We bush the small end with carrillo bronze bushings and resize the big end.
Crank is going to be shot too and either a good used crank (which is hard to find), a new crank (which is kind of pricey), or have yours repaired (which depending on who does it you can have a new crank).
Biggest worry is the block, we are finding that virtually every block we get with spun bearings don't last long before spinning again which we think is attributed to crank thrust journal damage. Thanks to yamaha this is not normally a serviceable surface so you get to scrap the engine. We are setting up tooling right now to repair that surface with a replaceable bearing and adding some oiling to that area too. Tooling and second/third block (first is already done) should be ready to go this week sometime.
I have a couple of good engines if you wanted to get by for less money and would even consider giving you a core charge on yours. Feel free to email me and I'll give you a rundown of what I have left.
Sean Morley
[email protected]
4gasem
Well-Known Member
SO...
What I am getting from Seans post here is...
It would be WAY easier and probably better off in the long run to let him do the motor work or just find a good late model used one to bolt up...:thumbs up:
I love motors and working on them, but I would leave this up to someone with first hand experience...
What I am getting from Seans post here is...
It would be WAY easier and probably better off in the long run to let him do the motor work or just find a good late model used one to bolt up...:thumbs up:
I love motors and working on them, but I would leave this up to someone with first hand experience...
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I had about $1000 just in machine work to my motor,bore job and back cut tranny.At least another $1000 in parts before reassembly.Pistons,rings,gaskets,bearings and the other crap.This was just for the bottom end.A couple more g's into the top end this winter.I have about 4k miles on it since building it and it still runs good.
Back when my motor was junk I might have jumped on a new low mile engine instead.
Back when my motor was junk I might have jumped on a new low mile engine instead.
3 with decent miles on ebay right now:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=vmax+engine&category0=
:cheers:
Neil
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=vmax+engine&category0=
:cheers:
Neil
Yea, lower mile engines are a lot of times the way to go unless you already have one and want to get more power out of it. I've got an 05 that would work well and I think I have a 2000 burn victim (which would clean up and paint nicely) as well as some 1300 engines. The newer (96 up) engines with the spin on filters have stronger cases and good choices for big bore stuff.
Shipping out of Canada can have some hidden costs so be careful on that. That shipper with the $1800 engine only ships by forward air so if there is no terminal near you there would be additional time and effort to get it (the closest one to me is 3 hours away one way!). With gas costs it can be a real pain. U.S. shipping is a lot easier to deal with. Also, a package like that coming in from Canada there is going to have some import Tariffs. Sometimes they aren't bad but other times it is.
Sean Morley
Shipping out of Canada can have some hidden costs so be careful on that. That shipper with the $1800 engine only ships by forward air so if there is no terminal near you there would be additional time and effort to get it (the closest one to me is 3 hours away one way!). With gas costs it can be a real pain. U.S. shipping is a lot easier to deal with. Also, a package like that coming in from Canada there is going to have some import Tariffs. Sometimes they aren't bad but other times it is.
Sean Morley
Engine has under 4k on it. Bike was totaled. Shoot me an email and I will get some details of it to you. Was wanting $2500 but we can discuss trade ins and other options.
Sean Morley
[email protected]
Sean Morley
[email protected]
davidon
Well-Known Member
Bought my current engine from that guy in CAN. Would have waited for a better deal but I was impatient and pulled the trigger. Fast shipping...there is a $50 customs fee when you pick it up but you can talk to the guy and he probably will reimburse you.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
Awesome!
Ever had a motor out of a Max?
Use plenty of blue masking tape on anything you DON'T want scratched. I might even coat the tape with some duct tape as well...:thumbs up: It's a tight fit no doubt!
not too bad if you remove the middle drive gear (swingarm must at least come off temporarily). Then it slips right out with a floor jack.
Sean
Sean
