my '92 not cranking over...

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Rayvin53

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I apologize if I'm repeating an often asked problem with an obvious solution, but I came up empty in my search. Went to start the Max last night and it wouldn't turn over. Battery is fully charged, headlight and instr. lights come on, I hear the fuel pump sound and the vboost clicking, but all I get is a click then a buzzing sound from what I'm assuming is the r/r (the cylinder that's top & center above the battery, has a #351 on it). Recharged the batt over night with the same results. All connections seem fine. Have already soldered where the crimp is, and it's been running fine all year.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
What happens if you jump the terminals (two large wires - one from battery and one to starter) - of course make sure it's in nuetral. This eliminates everything except the main starter wire and starter itself.

Now, if you've done any other work like removing the stator cover or something else we would need to get your full input.

Sean
 
SOMETIMES a "clicking" sound when you turn the key is a dead battery. Like there is not enuf juice to crank it over. Put a meter on the battery and check to see if your Voltage drops considerably when you turn the key. Could very well be a battery that holds a charge and looks ok but is otherwise worn out. Careful, cause if that is the case it could lead to starter clutch issues as well.
 
A corroded start switch or one full of crap can cause starting issues. Do Sean's check first. If it starts up then look at your start switch.
 
First thing to do would be to connect jump leads from your car/truck battery to the Max battery (careful with polarity!) and try starting it again.

If it starts, it means your battery is dead. If it doesn't, you have another problem.

I think the 'cylinder' you are describing is the fuel pump. Also to clarify - the Vboost servo cycles, making are lil' whirring sound, when you turn the key (and the kill switch is set to On), and the fuel pump makes a clicking noise while it refills the float chambers.
 
Actually, the cylinder he is refering to is the starter solenoid. Contacts inside it are probably fried. Sean's advice to jump the terminals with an insulated screwdriver is the fastest way to isolate a bad solenoid. If it turns over with the screwdriver, then check the continuity of the blue/white wire to the switch on the handlebar. It sounds like that is good as you get a click/buzz when you push it. This is simply a low side switch (goes straight to ground when pushed) that activates the solenoid. You can also try disconnecting and grounding the blue/white wire off the solenoid. If it turns over, you have a poor connection at the switch or in the harness.
Good luck,
Paul
 
I appreciate all the quick replies, guys. It is the starter solenoid that gives one click and then just a buzzing sound. When I try jumping the terminals on it, the headlight and instr. lights all go out and nothing happens. I assume that rules out a bad solenoid, no? Tried the car battery jump and it makes no difference at all, same sounds, engine still doesn't crank over. Starter clutch was replaced over a year ago by the PO. Are these symptoms pointing to the starter clutch?
Have a great holiday weekend!
 
And Firewrench, I disconnected the blue/white solenoid wire and grounded it--the lights are dim when I turn the key, the lights get brighter when I push the starter button. What does this mean?
 
If you are jumping the leads and it doesn't crank the engine then you either have a shorted wire (not likely), bad battery (voltage should be 12.6 and not drop much under 11 when testing), Bad Starter (you can jump from the car directly to the starter wire connector (it isn't the easiest thing to access but it can be done down in front). Or it could be the starter clutch has siezed up.

Sean
 
+1 to Sean. I would make sure the connection to the starter motor is clean and tight.
 
When you short the blue/white to ground, the motor should turn over. Sounds like a bad starter motor. Seans post mentioned jumping a new, fully charged battery directly to the starter wire. That will verify the trouble is downstream from your solenoid. Also, check the wire and connections, clean and tight. Has the starter clutch been making noise? 1 year is a very short time to have one go bad, I guess it's possibled, but I'd be looking at the starter motor.
Good luck
Paul
 
Even though the battery checked out ok on my voltmeter, I decided to replace it because I didn't know how old it was and because everything else in the starting circuit seemed to be ok. Sure enough, it fired right up as soon as I replaced it. Seems this battery was in bad enough condition that it even kept the engine from turning over with a jump start from the car battery. Thanks once again to everyone for jumping in to help a brother out. The sun is shining and I'm ready for a ride...
 
Sweet, congrats on a troubleshoot well done.
Ride safe
Just got back from a nice ride, and it is sweet to have her running again after 2 whole days without her, but the congrats go to you, Sean, Mark, Mike, Buster and naughtyG...this forum ROCKS!!
 
I wanted it right away, so I settled for the stock replacement battery by YUASA. I should've been patient and picked up a gel battery online, huh? So I got ripped by my local stealer for 80 bucks...
 
$80 for a oem one isn't bad at all. oddysey's are $110. stock ones are good, i like them, just can't go wrong with gel.
 
Did a little research and next time I need a batt for one of the bikes I'm going with an AGM (absorbed glass mat) type. They have all the advantages of gel with a higher charge efficiency and are even more unaffected by vibration. This link explains a bit more in depth, even though it's discussing marine applications... http://www.vonwentzel.net/Battery/01.Type/index.html
 
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