Need some guidance with best carb setup.

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hexec

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Location
Toronto, Ont, Can
1985 Vmax Canadian version so it has the stock adjustable needles.

Everything is stock.

Well not exactly. The exhaust has been punched out to get a better sounding max.

I took the carbs off last winter and cleaned them all out. Every passage and jet was cleaned with seafoam and air blown threw to validate if it was clogged. Diaphram looks great (replaced them a few years ago). Setup float level the dry method. All jets are stock. Pilot screws set at 3 turns out and all look in good shape. The needle is set on the 2nd position from the blunt end (stock position).

I get a nice reliable idle and good starting. However, it seems to have poor acceleration across mid to high (from what I remember). When I say poor, I mean not as good as I would have expected from a Vmax. Better than any of the other cruiser guys I ride with. But, not close to what I recall it to be.

Airbox is in place with the Y in and the air filter removed. I try to keep my carbs sync'd all of the time. The front right cylinder's compression is a little lower than the rest. Might be due to ring or to a valve. Not too sure. But it still should run better.

The exhaust does smell very rich. I suspect that the float level is too low and perhaps something else. Going to check float level the wet way tonight. Hope I don't have to take carbs off again to adjust the float level or maybe I should be happy if that's all that's wrong.
 
I have canadian needles also but mine is a CA model- I chose to put them in just for the slot adjustments. Mine are set at 1 1/2 and the 1/2 step meaning a washer underneath the clip. I also tied 4 springs together on my slide springs so they would lift quicker. Maybe a wet check on the floats but my guess is your coils are not giving enough fire and your they are not burning all the gas. I build and sell them if you would like a set.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40699
 
Float height should be between 15-17 mm. Most people run 17 mm which is on the lean side, but the Vmax likes to be lean.
 
@Traumahawk, yeah, I was going to see if its set to 17mm. Unless I did something totally wrong on the dry measurement (which I think I might have).

@blaxmax, I'll try a 1.5 setting on the needle after checking the float. I'm also interested in the idea of loosening the spring tension. Are you talking about tying up 4 spring turns together? What do you use to tie them up? I'm thinking a couple small tie wraps or wrapping a couple staples. Will that even stay in place?

On the COP, I have 4 COP but no connectors Do you know where I can get connectors?
 
@Traumahawk, yeah, I was going to see if its set to 17mm. Unless I did something totally wrong on the dry measurement (which I think I might have).

@blaxmax, I'll try a 1.5 setting on the needle after checking the float. I'm also interested in the idea of loosening the spring tension. Are you talking about tying up 4 spring turns together? What do you use to tie them up? I'm thinking a couple small tie wraps or wrapping a couple staples. Will that even stay in place?

On the COP, I have 4 COP but no connectors Do you know where I can get connectors?

One thing to think about, by tying the springs back, you are making the needles come in sooner, and that will richen your bike thru the midrange. Most people that will either tie the springs, or will go to softer springs, are running an aftermarket jet kit.
 
That makes sense. Softer spring for a better response but smaller jets to compensate. Not sure I want to go there yet. I first want to getting it running properly. Then maybe I'll look at tweaking for better performance later.
 
I've got to say guys, no other bikes online community can beat the Vmax's community. I just posted this thread and immediately got great response. I didn't want to forget to say thanks for the help. I'm trying not to take people for granted.
 
@Traumahawk, yeah, I was going to see if its set to 17mm. Unless I did something totally wrong on the dry measurement (which I think I might have).

@blaxmax, I'll try a 1.5 setting on the needle after checking the float. I'm also interested in the idea of loosening the spring tension. Are you talking about tying up 4 spring turns together? What do you use to tie them up? I'm thinking a couple small tie wraps or wrapping a couple staples. Will that even stay in place?

On the COP, I have 4 COP but no connectors Do you know where I can get connectors?
I use cable ties 2 very small one on each side. I am running almost exactly the same set up you are with drilled stock pipe-10 1/2in holes in each.
I have 157.5 mains and 100 air jets but my cam sprockets are slotted for degree and I run moose racing plugs. My altitude is surely lower than yours though.
I make the wires that connect to your cops and the other end plugs into your coil connectors-pics below-----What are the 4 #'s after denso 129700-????
Unless they are oem.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40699
 
1985 vmax canadian version so it has the stock adjustable needles.

Everything is stock.

Well not exactly. The exhaust has been punched out to get a better sounding max.

I took the carbs off last winter and cleaned them all out. Every passage and jet was cleaned with seafoam and air blown threw to validate if it was clogged. Diaphram looks great (replaced them a few years ago). Setup float level the dry method. All jets are stock. Pilot screws set at 3 turns out and all look in good shape. The needle is set on the 2nd position from the blunt end (stock position).

I get a nice reliable idle and good starting. However, it seems to have poor acceleration across mid to high (from what i remember). When i say poor, i mean not as good as i would have expected from a vmax. Better than any of the other cruiser guys i ride with. But, not close to what i recall it to be.

Airbox is in place with the y in and the air filter removed. I try to keep my carbs sync'd all of the time. The front right cylinder's compression is a little lower than the rest. Might be due to ring or to a valve. Not too sure. But it still should run better.

The exhaust does smell very rich. I suspect that the float level is too low and perhaps something else. Going to check float level the wet way tonight. Hope i don't have to take carbs off again to adjust the float level or maybe i should be happy if that's all that's wrong.

huh?
 
Measured float at 13mm. I think I found my issue. But now I have a bigger issue. The valve cover was leaking oil so I decided to tighten those special cover bolts and I broke one......fu ck.
 
Well just take it apart and look at it. Anything can be fixed. If you dont know how to fix it, post pics, and lots of people here can help.
 
I'll fix it, not too worried about that. it just means messing around with this bike again and not riding. I'm just pissed off right now. Tomorrow is another day.
 
I've got to say guys, no other bikes online community can beat the Vmax's community. I just posted this thread and immediately got great response. I didn't want to forget to say thanks for the help. I'm trying not to take people for granted.

This is a great place and many on here know what they are talking about. With my carb issues I did it the easy way, I took them out and sent to Sean, he cleaned and rebuilt them and it ran so nice then after about 3 months I sold it ( a 2007 ) I was having problems with my shoulders and every time I rode I was in pain. Plus it sucks to not have anyone within a 300 miles radius that also owns a Vmax, gets boring to ride by myself all the time.

That was in 2010 I think and I just bought a new 2015 Vmax and in a few day it will be registered and I can ride it. Good luck with your carbs.

Ron
 
I'll be taking her apart tonight. I recall the 2 rubber plugs in the float space were lose. They just drop out. No friction at all. I wasn't sure if it was intended like that just to keep junk out or whether it was suppose to be a gas tight seal. However, now that I think about it, if gas gets through then it would run rich since it kind of bypasses the main jet.

Local stealer wants $40 for 8 plugs. I know its not much but just can't see myself paying that much for small rubber plugs. Any tricks to tighten these things. I was thinking of drilling a hole down the center and screwing in a plastic/stainless screw to expand the diameter to snug it in place.
 
I'll be taking her apart tonight. I recall the 2 rubber plugs in the float space were lose. They just drop out. No friction at all. I wasn't sure if it was intended like that just to keep junk out or whether it was suppose to be a gas tight seal. However, now that I think about it, if gas gets through then it would run rich since it kind of bypasses the main jet.

Local stealer wants $40 for 8 plugs. I know its not much but just can't see myself paying that much for small rubber plugs. Any tricks to tighten these things. I was thinking of drilling a hole down the center and screwing in a plastic/stainless screw to expand the diameter to snug it in place.

Those plugs should be tight. If they arent tight you can put them into a small container of gasoline, and they will expand just a bit. If they are still loose, just spend the money and replace them. If they are loose, that will also make a rich condition as well.
 
I'll be taking her apart tonight. I recall the 2 rubber plugs in the float space were lose. They just drop out. No friction at all. I wasn't sure if it was intended like that just to keep junk out or whether it was suppose to be a gas tight seal. However, now that I think about it, if gas gets through then it would run rich since it kind of bypasses the main jet.

Local stealer wants $40 for 8 plugs. I know its not much but just can't see myself paying that much for small rubber plugs. Any tricks to tighten these things. I was thinking of drilling a hole down the center and screwing in a plastic/stainless screw to expand the diameter to snug it in place.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1985/V MAX 1200 - VMX12N/CARBURETOR/parts.html
 
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