ok i give up,i need help..please

[imfixinmopars]

hello, i have a stock 98 max,4k miles and well taken care of by org owner,so i though.my first ride produced poor performance,and a hint of v-boost,my ol 95 would kick its rear all over the place.so, i pulled the carbs,cleaned them,and they were spotless anyway,ck/ed float levels,corrected a few at 1.060 setting,so i was told.shimmed the needles at .025,reassy with a surface plate,and cked the v/boost,and all operated ok.oh and drilled the mix screw plugs,and set them at 3.5 turns.hoping this would restore the org perf+,i was wrong,it ran ok,but hearing a lot of noise from the carbs,kinda popping at low rpm,and no hint of boost.it pulls clean up to 9500+,and runs ok,but not the vmax power,so i ck compression,again,and its 120 or so each,then #2 carb decides to puke fuel,and totally floods the cyl,fouling the plug,whic were new.i pulled the carb rack,and looked for problems and found none.im setting the floats at 1.125,as in your sticky,and resetting the mixers at 2.5.also im gunna do the shotgun as mentioned,and see.i ran the rpms to 6500 and watched as the vboost servo worked! any help would be great,i really wanted to keep this one,but its pissin me off.as i looked down the ports i see alot of black gunk-carbon on the valves,and it looks nasty.i need this run strong again to shut up the harley friends braggin crap,so help!thanks

 

[4gasem]

hello, i have a stock 98 max,4k miles and well taken care of by org owner,so i though.my first ride produced poor performance,and a hint of v-boost,my ol 95 would kick its rear all over the place.so, i pulled the carbs,cleaned them,and they were spotless anyway,ck/ed float levels,corrected a few at 1.060 setting,so i was told.shimmed the needles at .025,reassy with a surface plate,and cked the v/boost,and all operated ok.oh and drilled the mix screw plugs,and set them at 3.5 turns.hoping this would restore the org perf+,i was wrong,it ran ok,but hearing a lot of noise from the carbs,kinda popping at low rpm,and no hint of boost.it pulls clean up to 9500+,and runs ok,but not the vmax power,so i ck compression,again,and its 120 or so each,then #2 carb decides to puke fuel,and totally floods the cyl,fouling the plug,whic were new.i pulled the carb rack,and looked for problems and found none.im setting the floats at 1.125,as in your sticky,and resetting the mixers at 2.5.also im gunna do the shotgun as mentioned,and see.i ran the rpms to 6500 and watched as the vboost servo worked! any help would be great,i really wanted to keep this one,but its pissin me off.as i looked down the ports i see alot of black gunk-carbon on the valves,and it looks nasty.i need this run strong again to shut up the harley friends braggin crap,so help!thanks

I'm sure Maleko89 will help you out, but grab some Seafoam and a new fuel filter if you haven't already.

Chris

 

[maleko89]

hello, i have a stock 98 max,4k miles and well taken care of by org owner,so i though.my first ride produced poor performance,and a hint of v-boost,my ol 95 would kick its rear all over the place.so, i pulled the carbs,cleaned them,and they were spotless anyway,ck/ed float levels,corrected a few at 1.060 setting,so i was told.shimmed the needles at .025,reassy with a surface plate,and cked the v/boost,and all operated ok.oh and drilled the mix screw plugs,and set them at 3.5 turns.hoping this would restore the org perf+,i was wrong,it ran ok,but hearing a lot of noise from the carbs,kinda popping at low rpm,and no hint of boost.it pulls clean up to 9500+,and runs ok,but not the vmax power,so i ck compression,again,and its 120 or so each,then #2 carb decides to puke fuel,and totally floods the cyl,fouling the plug,whic were new.i pulled the carb rack,and looked for problems and found none.im setting the floats at 1.125,as in your sticky,and resetting the mixers at 2.5.also im gunna do the shotgun as mentioned,and see.i ran the rpms to 6500 and watched as the vboost servo worked! any help would be great,i really wanted to keep this one,but its pissin me off.as i looked down the ports i see alot of black gunk-carbon on the valves,and it looks nasty.i need this run strong again to shut up the harley friends braggin crap,so help!thanks

Greetings.

When you shimmed your needles did you make sure the little nub on the retainer whaser was seated in the slide? How's your ignition system? Are the plug wires new as well? How does your fuel filter look? Air filter? Check the choke plungers too and make sure they're closing all the way. How are your slide diaphgrams? No rips or tears? Coasting enrichener? A set of carbs I'm working on had really dirty enricheners and didn't open/close very smoothly. If they were stuck closed then that would cause a rich condition at idle for sure. If you close the idle mixture screws do you detect a change in idling?

I would try the Peashooter method too using Seafoam, that might clear some of your problems up.

 

[Akatora]

Hello,

When the engine has some "popping" problem, it is good for safety's sake to rule out the ignition problem, as it can cause these symptoms. They are relatively easy to check and you only need a multimeter to do it. You should check:

- pick-up coils, see http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3876

- ignition HT coil resistances on primary side and secondary side.
(There are four of them, one for each cylinder, and each one has got primary side and secondary side. Factory specification for primary side resistance (between red/white and orange wires) is between 2.4 and 3.0 ohms at 20 degr. Celsius. The specified resistance of secondary (HT side) is between 10.5 and 15.8 kilo ohms (without plug caps) at 20 C. This resistance can be measured between red/white wire on primary side and the actual spark plug wire (HT wire).)

Also; even the new spark plugs - if really badly fouled - may not recover anymore for normal action no matter how well dried and cleaned.

And then the v-boost. I had also the v-boost operating back and forth, and opening at the set RPM. But the control cable coming from servo motor to the valve was connected so that the valve could not actually open very much (cable too loose). When you remove the carbs this can be easily checked. Just remember to disconnect the fuel pump connection before turning the power on. Otherwise there will be some fuel on the floor... And just in case if after this your starter motor will not turn, see http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4105


If none of the previous help, it's better to systematically check the inlet side and carbs:
- check that there is nothing in the inlet to prevent air flow, and that the filter element is not glogged
- inspect the connections for possible air leaks
- confirm that the ignition advance unit is connected to the #2 cylinder's vacuum pipe and there are no cracks or leaks and that the hose is not glogged. You can also dismantle the advance unit and check it.
- clean the carbs and check that the main jet is not loose
- check the mixture screw positions (original setting = about 2.5 turns out, more out = richer low end mixture, more in = leaner low end mixture)
- inspect the fuel level
- check the needle positions and possible shimming of the needles (lower clip position = richer mid range mixture, higher clip position = leaner mid range mixture). The original needles do not have adjustable clips, but there might be some shimming placed under the needle clip.
- inspect the flow rate of the main jets (original flow rate 152.5) as they might be worn, see http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4130http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4105

 

[imfixinmopars]

well this is what i have done so far,fully cleaned the carbs,shotgun,and more,set float levels at 1.125,pulled the added shims[.025] to stock.set mixers at 2.5,reassy carbs and set square on surface plate,cked coils and all ck ok in the prim to 2nd wire[13.18-13.46],BUT,,, primary to primary ck[two leads going into the coils] showed 3.0-3.3 ohms on a 200 ohm scale.kinda high vs. the specs??? cked caps too and all are 8.86-10.33. i am going to ck on bike float levels too,before i bolt them on.to double ck the levels and sticking problems as before. im concerned with the high resistance levels on the primary coil wires though,whats your thoughts. i used a digital meter. i will respond later when runnng,i need thoughts on the coils issue,any thing will be a great help,man, its time to RIDE. im bummed cuz i have a 81 kz1100 beater w/55,000 miles and she runs strong and starts always! i think the kaw is looking over at the max and laughing,maybe its just me,lol.help. oh i just did a plug wire cap end to ground test and have 22.1-23.6 on a 200k scale,are those high also? thanks,mike

 

[imfixinmopars]

well got the bike together,and syc'd the carbs,they were WAY off. i thought it would suck my fluid in one one was soooo far off.got that fixed,and she idles good runs smooth,and performance is decent.i still dont feel a big vboost surge,but i will ride some more.through the whole rpm,its smooth and runs w/o a hitch.its just not the "monster i expected. the 95 i just sold had a walker 4+2 and jetted,and i would eat this thing for lunch,easy.this is all stock,except mixers at 3 out.might try the shims again? it starts and sounds ok.the boost is all adjusted to specs too,and seems to be working w/ key,ect. i think the float levels were off,and the carbs out of sync didnt help.maybe shes just a doggie? its such a nice bike though,i wanted to keep it,but if i get eat up by lesser bikes,then its no fun,right???thanks for all the replys,and any ideas why so,well not scary fast?

 

[Akatora]

Hi,

For the v-boost valve, did you check the ACTUAL opening inside the tunnels between the carbs? Because the valve can still seem to move correctly even if the connection is not ok.

I checked it so that while the carbs were removed and the fuel pump wiring socket disconnected, I connected the ignition on and then switched it off when the v-boost was in it's highest position. Then you can try to pull manually from the steel cable that is coming from servo motor and actually moving valve. If there is still some movement range left when you try it at the highest servo position, it means that the v-boost valve does not open completely. If so it has to be adjusted to be able to open completely.

If it is not doing the popping etc. anymore, I would not be worried about the coil resistances too much. The primary resistances seem to be ok anyway.

For the carb setup, my max has at the moment stock exhaust and stock air filter with Y removed. There is T-boost in operation and the main jet is Keihin 170 (equal to Mikuni 170), the needle is shimmed with 2 washers and the idle mixture screw is 3.5 turns out. The power is good and when compared to 160 size jetting it is now stronger. I'm 100 meters above sea level.