Race tech springs

[NHMax]

Ordering replacement springs thru race tech tomorrow ...unless there is a reason to go with a different brand?

 

[maleko89]

Racetech is top notch for 1st gen VMX12's IMO. They can be tailored to your weight since they are straight rate and the gold valve emulators are adjustable.

Mark

 

[MaxMidnight]

Agree with Mr Maleko but would also recommend the Gold emulators and setting that static sag to get the best out of the set-up.
If you use their spring rat calculator it is likely that you are likely to be in between spring rates. IMO it is better to go with the lower rate unless you like a firm ride..

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes to Race-Tech springs, my opinion is to get the firmer spring if you fall in-between rates, if you are an enthusiastic rider.

YSS, RICOR, and Race-Tech all have replacements for the damping rods' function. They are commonly referred to as cartridge emulators, which I believe is probably trademarked. I agree with maleko89 and MaxMidnight on the use of them, and MaxMidnight's point about static sag, directions will be in the springs kit.

If you also add HH composition pads to your front calipers and add stainless steel sheathed front brake hoses or similar, the front end will be entirely different, when you try out the bike. Much good comes of this work! If your rotors are uneven because a prior rider let the pads wear down to the backing plates, the rotors need to be replaced. Aftermarket pieces will work OK here, and are much less-expensive than the OEM. If your rotors are not uneven, and they meet the thickness measurement, save your $$ on replacement rotors until they need to be replaced.

 

[NHMax]

Yes to Race-Tech springs, my opinion is to get the firmer spring if you fall in-between rates, if you are an enthusiastic rider.

YSS, RICOR, and Race-Tech all have replacements for the damping rods' function. They are commonly referred to as cartridge emulators, which I believe is probably trademarked. I agree with maleko89 and MaxMidnight on the use of them, and MaxMidnight's point about static sag, directions will be in the springs kit.

If you also add HH composition pads to your front calipers and add stainless steel sheathed front brake hoses or similar, the front end will be entirely different, when you try out the bike. Much good comes of this work! If your rotors are uneven because a prior rider let the pads wear down to the backing plates, the rotors need to be replaced. Aftermarket pieces will work OK here, and are much less-expensive than the OEM. If your rotors are not uneven, and they meet the thickness measurement, save your $$ on replacement rotors until they need to be replaced.

So Cartridge emulators are a go also
So it will be apart for another week or so drat
I was thinking the Gen 1 Hayabusa brake upgrade
cause I have three good rotors and a set of calipers around........

 

[NHMax]

Pulled my front calipers apart
Pistons were stuck good

I am confused seal kit it $80
Is that per side so I need two
or per piston so I need 4?

 

[Fire-medic]

This question is a good reason for putting your year of bike and any mods done to it in the signature line, so we won't have to ask this question: what year is your bike? Go to the upper-right and where you see your screen name, click on it and add your bike year and modifications.

1985-1992 are 2 pistons, 1993-07 are 4 pistons.

Use something like 220 wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean the insides of the caliper, and the pistons. You have a Dremel, yes? The brass disc brushes in a Dremel are just the thing for cleaning the O-ring grooves. A small pick is good for removing the O-ring seals. Be sure to lube the seals w/brake fluid before replacing them. Left: '93-'07 4 piston/caliper:


Caliper Seal Kit

3HE-W0047-50-00

Retail Price: $47.99

Your Price: $35.76
It appears to me to be for one caliperm side so two kits per caliper, enough to do 4 pistons. You have two calipers so 4 sets total are required. Contact Ron Ayres Yamaha and inquire.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045c15f8700209bc794308/front-brake-caliper
For the 1985-1993 1 pair opposed pistons per caliper:



Caliper Seal Kit

1FK-W0047-00-00

Retail Price: $99.99

Your Price: $78.89

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004330ff8700209bc78b50e/front-brake-caliper
One pair of seals per caliper, for the single-opposed piston design per caliper of the early bikes. That's two O-ring seals, and two rubber dust/rain covers per caliper. These are much more expensive than the 1993-up bikes, but it ends up being roughly the same, because of early design single-opposed pistons/caliper for the 1992 and earlier bikes, versus the 1993+ bikes having two pairs of opposed pistons (4 pistons total) per caliper.

I suggest HH pads and DOT 4 brake fluid, and completely-changing the front and rear brake fluid. If it's opaque, someone's neglected the brake maintenance. A pair of braided stainless steel brake lines added, and your OEM system is going to be displaying much-better performance. Good brakes are a confidence-builder, and on a near 150 mph motorcycle a necessity.

 

[NHMax]

SO my 1985 needs TWO seal kits one for each caliper
Two seals and two dust seals in part number 1FK-W0047-00-00

 

[Fire-medic]

It appears that parts # 6 & 14 are the O-ring and the dust seal for one side of one caliper. I think you need double what you are saying. SInce the parts are expensive, contact Ron Ayres Yamaha and ask them how-many O-rings and how-many dust seals are in a part #.

I would wait to order until you disassemble the calipers (remove the pistons) to see if the pistons are corroded to the point of not being able to seal. In that case notice there is a part # for a piston an O-ring and a dust seal. To me it looks like that would be for one side of one piston. Again, contact the dealer.

Or, you can order from Sean Morley and he will tell you what you need to know. [email protected]

 

[Semi239]

Pulled my front calipers apart
Pistons were stuck good

NHMax, also consider getting a rebuild kit from AllBall Racing. I had a great experience rebuilding the calipers on my '06. The pistons were seized up as well, but I was able to clean them up to move freely. Tough part was getting the pistons out. I found that a gasoline bath freed them up by disintegrating the seals.

Here is the link to the AllBalls rebuild kit, this is for my 06 with dual pistons. Im pretty sure it came with all i needed to do both calipers in one kit.

 

[Fire-medic]

If your airhose into the bleeder port of the caliper (block-off the hose port w/a machine screw) won't blow-out your pistons, use a grease gun, open the bleeder port fully, and hook the grease gun to the bleeder fitting and pump-away until the pistons move enough to be removed. You just need to thoroughly remove the grease afterwards. I've never had a caliper not be 'pistons-out' using this method.

All-Balls has decent parts, including steering head bearings, if 'one-too-many' hard wheelie landings dents your races & causing 'brinelling.' That's the notchy feeling you get moving the bars left to right lock.

A SOHC Honda 750 caliper being freed-up after a 30 year lay-up. The air hose wouldn't budge it. Grease gun does the trick!



The crystallized brake fluid.

 

[NHMax]

I split the calipers
Lightly clamped .055 thick Machinist scales over the transfer ports
Air hose, with thick cardboard on top of bench they shot right out
Id chucking three jaw chuck on a hand lathe with scotch bright pistons OD's look like new
I usually use a microscope and a 125 wide and a .046 wide Lathe Grooving tools to lightly scrap the white crustys out
but I will try a brass brush dremel

 

[NHMax]

Got the lower fork tubes back from Powder coater FINALLY
Next time I am going thru a Shop directly, not a buddy thru his buddies shop
took a month and they F'ed up the cross over support
they didn't know it was magnesium and acid dipped it
I guess it dissolved HAHAHAHA they got a replacement at a local bike breaker and are powder coating it today

 

[NHMax]

I left the drain screws in the fork tubes when sending them for powder coating. Anyone know the thread pitch so I can source/make new ones

 

[one2dmax]

If you have the 85-92 forks with the small drains on the bottom I think they are 4mm x .8 pitch

 

[wayne billings]

NHMAX- if you need to replace the flat O ring that seals the 2 2 halfs of the caliper, try " brake crafters". I could not find that piece anywhere else. Cheers

 

[NHMax]

If you have the 85-92 forks with the small drains on the bottom I think they are 4mm x .8 pitch

M4x.8 ? "Standard m4 thread is .7"

 

[one2dmax]

M4x.8 ? "Standard m4 thread is .7"

I am not sure then? Use a thread gauge on your old screw to compare. Most everything on these bikes are "fine" threads by the way.