Don't worry about the age so much, newer is not always better when it comes to buying used. Do you get to ride before you buy? If not you may want to look elsewhere. It looks like you maybe buying it from a dealer - from all the other bikes in the background. More times than none you can get a better deal going private sale. It could very well be a 93 anyway. Make sure you check the VIN.
Do a compression check or have one done, if you can - and look for chewmarks where the speedo cable connects into the front wheel. Take caution if you think it has had allot more miles put on it. ( more miles than what it reads ) go with your gut feeling.
Overall condition says allot. May want to look for rubber stuck under the back fender for burnouts. Not to say, that you should steer away from it but if he tells you that he babied it, you can call his bluff. NO LEAKS - and make sure it is certified. Look inside the gas tank (under the seat) for rust and dirt, or pull off the fuel filter (under the seat as well) and see if looks really dirty. Check the air filter for condition ( dirt and excessive oil in the air box ) and check the battery type and condition. (sometimes they have a date sticker.)
You want to make sure you don't have and tranny problems, make she shifts smooth and doesn't pop out of any gear.
It would be great if you can get someone local who has rode a Max before or has had one in the past, but sold it, to go with you. OR if you know and trust (even a car ) mechanic , take it over to him and let him go over it with you.
Be aware of the after market pipes - if the person did not ride it much - with the low miles on it - chances are they would not have changed the exhaust. So you may want to consider that...not to say it doesn't happen but....why change it ? If your not looking for more power then why do it. If your looking for more then it probably means it was rode harder than you think. Sometimes it's for the sound but I'd say that would be a very low percentage.
Tell them your interested but it must be in perfect running order. No cooling issues, no backfires, no poping, no leaks, starting issues hot or cold. It should idle smooth and pull smooth and fuk'ing hard all the way to the red line. Note: take care and don't kill yourself in the process of doing so. You don't have to take it to the red line but you still want to drive it hard enough to get it accelerate with the boost open. Insist on all fresh new fluids, coolant, brake, rear gear, clutch, shocks. ect... get him to do all these if you can...OR... drop the price.
BTW- If the oil light flickers when your at WOT through the gears it's normal. The oil sensor is at the front of the motor and the oil get thrown to the back under hard acceleration so the light may then flicker.
If you have any doubts what so ever, or something is making you leary - pass on it and go on to the next one. A good deal will always come around, it comes down to how long do you want to wait for it. It took me at least 6months of hard pressed searching until I was convinced I found the one. I was wrong, I did having cooling issues and had to buy a battery 1 season later and change all the fluids myself. The good thing is I am very happy with it regaurdless.
Feel free to ask us about anything, we are all here to help. Good luck, and take your time, don't let him pressure you in any way. If your not an experienced rider, get someone else to ride the bike who is, for you. Then ride it after him just for the feel. It is rather a big SOB to jump on and test it at full throttle. It is not worth getting yourself hurt.
Robbarrie,
