Stage 7/Vboost removed ??

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Sharky

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Ok...I've searched through loads of the pages (53 on carbies alone :ummm:)

Can someone explain in layman's terms...

Benefit of removing V-boost ?...
I thought this was the best thing about them...turbo like kick at 5000rpm ?

What is Stage 7 ?...
I thought there was only stages 1 + 3

Assuming correct jetting and a good exhaust (supertrapps for the rumble, custom headers) which is best ?

I remember my mate in the uk had a non boost model and the boss rode both and reckoned non boost was better all round
 
As far as I know you can do it either way.. stage 7 is k&n filter pods. Airbox removed.. if u hook up vboost with it takes some more tuning but once you get it in IMO its better.. without vboost your balls to the wall all the time.. depends on what type of riding you do.. I was told there's really no happy median without vboost at cruise speeds ur on it and off it trying to keep speed.. I don't have it yet but want to get it. Just info I have picked up
 
I have a stage 7, k&n's, Kerker 4/1 all the goodies and I can tell you this. It pulls very hard from 3-9500 rpm. You can roll on any gear at 3000 rpm and you're gone and I mean gone. I took it to the track a few times just screwin around and not even squeezing it too hard out of the hole and it went 11.13 @ 121 on bias plys. I am pretty sure it'll go 10's next time out when I put the wood to her. The downside is it can be a little "choppy" at very low rpm and it's a little tougher to tune than bikes with vboost. Getting a stage 7 tuned well is key. I am really trying to understand the vboost thing myself because I never had it. I've ridden with a few that have vboost and I don't get the 6000 rpm and whoosh thing. My bike whooshes the second I drop the hammer and pulls the wheel up 1ft between shifts to 3rd gear. Just my 2 cents on stage seven.
 
Yea it really all depends on how you ride.. if u wanna be balls to the wall city riding then remove vboost and give her hell!! If u cruise and travel more like country roads then keep the vboost.. also a thought when I get mine im gonna keep vboost and then buy selector switch so I can put it at full,stock, 3000, or off then when I wanna give her hell I can flip a switch but when I wanna do some cruising I don't have to be fighting with all that power.. another thing to think about is if u ever get caught in rain good luck with all that power. :biglaugh:
 
So the definetive answer is......either....

I do a lot of riding with a group of 15ish bikes...so predictable power is good....but when we hit the open roads....

I guess best bet is to get one with vboost and then try both myself as oppposed to a cheaper non boost model but then be left wondering....
 
Believe it with the vboost it bot like gonna be a dog. These bikes have alot of power as is so adding that stage 7 and a exhaust will open her up. You already got the vboost a stage 7 kit is just a stage 7 kit buy the K&N pods then the stage 7 dyno jet kit.. unless ur a good mechanic and know a little about tuning a bike plan on spending some money on getting it dyno tuned also.
 
I have a stage 7 on the blue '90 , no v-boost , and a Morleys jet kit with v-boost on the c.f./ black '98 , both run Kerker 4-1 exhaust.

Stage 7 feels faster all the time and cruises with no issues, low end is no problemo either.

Morleys jet kit with v-boost will spin the tires mid range to wide open and scare you if you're not paying attention.

6 of one , half dozen of the other. Either one you choose , a smile will follow. :punk::punk:
 
I have a stage 7 on the blue '90 , no v-boost , and a Morleys jet kit with v-boost on the c.f./ black '98 , both run Kerker 4-1 exhaust.

Stage 7 feels faster all the time and cruises with no issues, low end is no problemo either.

Morleys jet kit with v-boost will spin the tires mid range to wide open and scare you if you're not paying attention.

6 of one , half dozen of the other. Either one you choose , a smile will follow. :punk::punk:

Second time I heard morley kit was nasty. Now im wondering if my 1260 will be better with that than the 7.
 
maybe part of the misconception is we say we 'remove' vboost. whereas infact we are putting vboost 'always on'.
 
one problem if you put the sleeves that K & N supply to remove the v-boost , you will lose WOT it mite not feel like it but you do, so did some thinking, then did some tests, machined some sleeves like the one K & N supplies with the stage 7 , but with a smaller inside diameter with about a 30 degree at each end. K & N sleeve inside dia is 1.375, which gives you a bigger port than the stock v-boost sleeve so you lose wide open throttle, tested 1.125, 1.000 and 0.875 inside dia sleeves, created a high velocity port by making the inside diameter smaller, the end result you get back the power lost at WOT, and the exhaust does not smell over gas at idle, or low rpm's
 
Benefit of removing V-boost ?...

What is Stage 7 ?...
I thought there was only stages 1 + 3

Assuming correct jetting and a good exhaust (supertrapps for the rumble, custom headers) which is best ?

An engine is full of compromises - if you tune it for low down power then the top end will sufferer and vice-a-versa.

A carburettor works best when the air speed going through it is high as this will atomize the fuel better.
One of the factors that determine the fuel speed is the diameter of the venturi.
The smaller it is the faster the air will have to flow for a given volume. However, there is a maximum volume of air that a fixed diameter choke can flow.

Now we come back to the compromises - if I fit a smaller diameter choke then I will get good atomisation of fuel at low revs but it won't be able to satisfy the demands at higher r.p.m.
Conversely, if I fit a choke large enough to satisfy the demands at maximum revs then at low speed the air speed will be too low and you will loose at the bottom end.

Those cunning Yameringha chaps realised that if they linked two carbs together then at low r.p.m. you use one of them but as the revs rise and you need more air then open up the butterfly between the two carbs so that the second one gives the additional mixture needed.
Genius!

Dyno print outs with and without V Boost demonstrate that the V Boost set-up will produce more low down power.

Another disadvantage of removing V Bosst is how to balance the carbs.

To answer your question, IMHO, there isn't any benefit and some disadvantages.

To your second question, it is a re-jetting of the carbs to maximise power at WOT. Note that Dynojet say this is for the race track?
I suspect that this is to (reasonably) cover their arse from owners who would complain about the performance at low rev running.

If you ride with the throttle pinned all the time then S7 may be the way to go, otherwise one of Sean's jet kits would probably get the best out of the motor without the need to compromise.
 
The vboost manifold has been removed from my machine by PO. It has DJ stage 7, Pods, and 4-to-4 Exhaust. Do I even need the servo on the bike? The schematic looks as though it just gets 12V from the bike and the rest is cross talk wires. So I'm thinking why bother putting it back on the bike.

Comments?
 
No reason to put it back on if you aren't going to run the vboost. If you have the crossover valve in place you can still leave the servo hooked up and still run the vboost for more bottom end even with the individual filter setup (stage seven).

The full stage seven usually has vboost eliminate tubes that install in place of the crossover and when that is done all the vboost parts can be removed.
 
I do have a carb sync tool. Motion Pro, I think.

The vBoost is no where to be seen just a straight pipe which connects the 1-2 and 3-4 intakes (like Sean said) and no damn fancy covers either! I taped up the connector where the servo plugs in under the scoop. Hell with it!

Getting into the final assembly for phase one of this Max Do-Over (Codename: MaxLong). Which includes a engine once over, thorough carb cleaning aaaannnnnnd a new raked neck to go with my american suspension front end and custom wheel. I'll get some pics up soon.

Thanks for the feedback
 
Ok, just FYI that you can't sync the Vmax carbs the traditional way since vboost is gone. You'll need a flow meter like for the weber carbs and check sync from the top of each carbs. Not the vacuum ports on the manifolds.
 
I synced many times my Vmax with Stage7, but not all vacuum gauges are equals..
No way to do it with mechanical needles ones (too bouncy with the pulses), but it works perfectly with Carbtune ;)
 
I'm not certain what a flow style sync tool is. The motion pro unit I have is similar to the carbtune in that it has 4 individual hose, each of which connects to a column of fluid. I assumed the barbs on the side of the intake ports just above the heads with the little rubber plugs on them were to connect the tool's hoses. I guess it makes sense that due to them be unrestrictively joined together you couldn't measure vac on THAT carb individually. I guess I need to hunt around a bit for more information
 
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