Sync tool question

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Noxx72

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So I'm shopping around, looking at the various carb tune tools available, most of them at a pretty high cost, and having some HVAC experience, it occurs to me...

Is there any reason I can't just grab a few $10 vacuum gauges off the shelf at my local HVAC supply, 6mm tubing atc, and make my own setup for under $50?

Also guages can always be calibrated back to 0 before use, and can be replaced individually, unlike tubes of mercury, or the steel bar type guys.

Is there something obvious I don't know about? Seems to me that equal levels of vacuum will result from syncing with either a $300 mercury tool, or a collection of dials on a board, provided the hoses are all equal length obv.

Feedback?
 
I'm sure other people will have first hand knowledge on this, but I would guess that you will need some type of reducer/restrictor in your lines to help minimize any pulsing. I'm also not sure how accurate the gauges will be and what range they will need to read in.
 
You can try that setup but I think there are carb sync tools out there for $50-$100 range already. You would need an adjustable restrictor since the pulse varies as you adjust the bike (if you want to be able to get the needle bounce reduced). Range will probably need to be up to 50 and you might be able to get by with 40.

Sean
 
Dale Walker has some dial gauges that are set up for carb syncing. They are located under "Tuning tools" in the Vmax section and are called Holeshot Vacuum Gauges. (4Cyl. gauge set, Part No. 35-7295 Price - $79.95)
My brother is getting some for his FZ1 so I may just go in on these if they will work on the Vmax, which it looks like they will. The kit has 5mm hoses so you may need different adaptors (6mm?) but those should be cheap enough to get, if needed (?) at all.
 

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The kit has 5mm hoses so you may need different adaptors (6mm?) but those should be cheap enough to get, if needed (?) at all.

The Vmax does not require any adaptors! The rubber tubes from the sync tool simply slide over the vacuum nipples on the carbs.
 
Dale Walker has some dial gauges that are set up for carb syncing. They are located under "Tuning tools" in the Vmax section and are called Holeshot Vacuum Gauges.
My brother is getting some for his FZ1 so I may just go in on these if they will work on the Vmax, which it looks like they will. The kit has 5mm hoses so you may need different adaptors (6mm?) but those should be cheap enough to get, if needed (?) at all.


Those look exactly like a set I bought from JC Whipme 18 years ago. C'ept back then they were like $60
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...llTextSearchGroup?Ntt=CARBURETOR+SYNCHRONIZER
 
The Vmax does not require any adaptors! The rubber tubes from the sync tool simply slide over the vacuum nipples on the carbs.
That's good news! Maybe I'll feint disinterest when my brother goes to order them, then casually "try" them out to see how they would work on Redbone. My sound cheap, I know, but I want to buy the Mityvac Brake Bleeder too. It'll work out in the end since he is getting some SS brake lines and will benefit from the Mityvac Brake Bleeder too.
 
Due to the dollar/pound exchange rate, you can get a Carbtune with the case and shipping for about $97 right now. Two weeks ago a friend got it for $87 but the exchange rate went up since then.
 
I used vacuum gauges like you are talking about when I first got my Vmax - they were better than nothing, but not accurate enough IMO. For just 12 bucks I made a sync tool that's as accurate as anything else out there. It's just not portable due to its large size. Do a google search for homemade manometers - you'll be amazed at all the stuff people have come up with.
 
Yo Bob
Before I bought my carb tune I tried making one out of vacuum gauges from work. Didnt work to well, the bouncing of the needle was horrendous. Put some snubbers on the gauges and quited things down but still had about 2-3" bounce on the needle. Not good enough for accurate syncing. The reason I like the carb tune is it has the little reducers in the lines plus since it is pulling on steel rods it helps keep the pulsing to a minimum. Plus Bro if you ever need it just call and I will bring it up or vice versa. Always looking for an excuse to get out and ride :punk:
Laters
 

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