V-boost black box at end of cable?

[cuathetop]

Hey guys , was hoping someone could shed light on my problem. My servo works most of time and moves the black box at end of cable. Problem is the box isnt connected to anything and jut slides back and forth in the metal sleeve. Rather than pulling carbs and fixing has anyone just manually opend v-boost valves and wired them in that position? I was thinking banding wire or something similar?

 

[scuff]

Yes is the short answer their is no shortage of posts about it, i believe Blaxmax has even hooked up a bicycle cable set up and can open the v-boost manually at will, you can wire it open, you can wait for the servo to open it up and unplug it like i said no shortage of ways to rig the v-boost but most people say you will loose hp by doing so.

 

[blaxmax]

Hey guys , was hoping someone could shed light on my problem. My servo works most of time and moves the black box at end of cable. Problem is the box isnt connected to anything and jut slides back and forth in the metal sleeve. Rather than pulling carbs and fixing has anyone just manually opend v-boost valves and wired them in that position? I was thinking banding wire or something similar?

twistedmax sent me the final cable - the short one you are missing if you want it back stock.
You can either unplug when it opens at it fullest but i never relied on it being completely open. I used a guitar tremelo spring to wire it open once but then decided to use a brake handle and cable to bypass all the controls.
It makes a helluva difference when you can pull it whenever you want.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=388111#post388111.

 

[cuathetop]

Thanks fellas what i think i need to do is remove carbs because i do see a small cable at end i think it is unattached to wherever it should go? will i be ok removing carbs or am i opening up a can of worms as far as tuning?

 

[blaxmax]

Thanks fellas what i think i need to do is remove carbs because i do see a small cable at end i think it is unattached to wherever it should go? will i be ok removing carbs or am i opening up a can of worms as far as tuning?

If you are just going to put the small cable back on it should not be a problem.
Remove the airbox first (4 phillips) on the boots then the carbs (4 phillips) on the intake boots and i think you will be able to reach the cable without taking the throttle cables off by just lifting up the carbs.
Even if you are just replacing the cable you will not need any tuning just make sure you get ALL the boots in place before tightening all the clamps- and watch first that crankcase hose that goes to the back of the airbox as it will keep it from going back together easily.

 

[Traumahawk]

As far as tuning....one2dmax has said that by opening up the vroom too soon you will lose about 10 hp. ...as recorded by a dyno.


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[cuathetop]

I will eventually take carbs off and get a better idea whats going on. For now im going to wire it open. It seems like a different machine lots more power. Are you sure i loose 10hp? I have a stage 7 jet w/kn filters and full exhaust. It doesnt bog anymore either at wot.

 

[blaxmax]

I will eventually take carbs off and get a better idea whats going on. For now im going to wire it open. It seems like a different machine lots more power. Are you sure i loose 10hp? I have a stage 7 jet w/kn filters and full exhaust. It doesnt bog anymore either at wot.

When you wire it open you can put a finger inside and feel the venturi at it's most open point- be sure you get it fully opened.
You will lose fuel mileage and a few horses below 4000rpm but it does feel like it pulls harder because you now will be using 2 carbs per cylinder.
Of course you won't get a "boost" anymore but you will feel more power overall.
I have had it 3 different ways -vboost stock (kicks in at 6500rpm), wired open (loss of low end not much though) radical idle and harder pull and a little tricky here---- I had a tiny stumble off the line and talked with dannymax about syncing the carbs with the vboost fully open and he suggested syncing with them closed first.
Well i synced both ways open and closed and there was a difference. This is the reason i decided to go manual.
I pulled the brake cable off my bicycle as you can see and will leave it that way from now on- I also will be pulling all the vboost parts off and selling them-- 1 on ebay right now at over $300.

 

[Traumahawk]

I will eventually take carbs off and get a better idea whats going on. For now im going to wire it open. It seems like a different machine lots more power. Are you sure i loose 10hp? I have a stage 7 jet w/kn filters and full exhaust. It doesnt bog anymore either at wot.

With the stage 7 jetting...etc...it helps to over come the loss, also at part throttle the vboost being open helps to lean out the bike making it run better (usually stage 7 is set up kinda rich), and the losing 10 hp was thru the mid range.....on a stock bike.

 

[cuathetop]

thanks appreciate the advice guys . I think it will be a winter project as far as redoing the connector to the V boost valves, the bike has a toggle installed for 3k and 6 k so im sure once i re-connect cable i will have to try that. Im about a month into the bike and loving it. Always been my dream bike...