v-boost issue

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nightfox85

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hello this is my first post so be gentle, i recently have noticed that when i start the main switch to power on the bike that instead of the vboost cycling it instead clicks for a while then stops. i was just wondering where would be a good place to start and what i should be looking for.
 
hello this is my first post so be gentle, i recently have noticed that when i start the main switch to power on the bike that instead of the vboost cycling it instead clicks for a while then stops. i was just wondering where would be a good place to start and what i should be looking for.

The clicking is the fuel pump filling the bowls, totally normal. For a starting point, I'd pop the left scoop and check the connections.
 
Yea the clicking of the fuel pump is normal, when the bike's been sitting for a little while as the fuel evaporates from the bowls and the pump needs to refill them.
However, if it clicks a lot every single time, especially just a few minutes after stopping the bike, then it may mean that your fuel pump needs looking at.

Check out this thread - it deals with this very problem:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=8775&highlight=fuel+pump
 
he may know the difference. i had a similar noise, and it was my assembly getting caught on the morley jet kit oil hose.
 
i was focusing more on the absence of the vboost reseting i do not hear the valves or servo motor. where would be a good place to start looking to make sure its connected correctly. additional notes is the engine and tranny was rebuilt 8k miles or so.
 
under left scoop. there is a circular connector and a 3 wire connector.
 
One way to make sure it's resetting or not is: turn the ignition on with the kill switch on the handlebars set to off. After the fuel pump stops clicking, go down on the left-hand side of the bike and look closely in the space just in front of the carbs under the left scoop. Then switch the kill switch to its 'on' position. At this time you should see/hear the Vboost servo operating - it should open all the way, then close again.
If not, as Garrett said, remove the left scoop and check that everything is plugged in properly.

To troubleshoot, get the Yamaha manuals from www.vmaxoutlaw.com
 
i checked the connections and they seem good, when i hit the kill switch i think i can hear a distant strained hum but nothing moves.
 
Maybe you can tape it and upload it to you tube or something so we have a better idea of whats going on
 
Nightfox, did you unplug the v-boost and cycle the key to see if the faint humming stopped?

It's #10 on the attached

There might be something binding up the mechanism? :confused2:
 

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sorry i havent been able to post any results of these test latly there has been an ongoing electrical storm in south texas and well... i dont really feel comfortable working on electrical things in a electrical storm lol. but i will keep you all updated.
 
So, your kill switch is set to Run, you turn the key, and you hear nothing? The vboost motor isn't very loud - just a small buzzing sound while it opens, and then closes again.

You can get to it by removing the airbox under the faux-tank cover, and then you could just connect 12V to it directly and see what happens.
 
how would i determine if its a bad motor or a bad controller, i watched the motor after removing the air scoop... no movment, i also watched for any movment in a nutral rev past 6k and still nothing. any ideas
 
Best way to determine if it's a bad controller would be to swap it with one that's know to work. Do you know anyone else with a Max locally? Takes 2 seconds to swap..

To check if the servo is running, you need to get to its wiring and apply 12V from the battery - it should move.
 
while on the subject of replacing the equipment would the t-boost system work as a replacement for the vboost controller
 
while on the subject of replacing the equipment would the t-boost system work as a replacement for the vboost controller

nope. The Tboost simply adds to the controller, fooling the system into thinking the motor is spinning twice as fast to open the boost valves sooner (3k instead of 6k rpm).
 
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