|sss| |+ -|
That's a crude representation of how they wire. The pin in the black connector closest to the gray one is the + output. The other is ground. You can see this in the picture.
Here's a crappy phone pic of where I put mine. It's the plate where the two rear coils used to be...I have COP's. I drilled one hole in it and used a bolt to hold the r/r to it. As long as the bolt is "just" long enough, it won't stick down too far and poke the battery. The starter relay was kinda in the way, so I just pulled it out of it's grommet and shoved it to the side...there's enough wire slack to move it a bit. Wrapped it in electrical tape just to prevent it from rubbing or bumping around, but it's pretty snug in there anyway. The extra red wire/fuse sitting on top is for the horn relay. Even after cruising for 100 miles, the r/r is barely warm to the touch, so I'm not too concerned about it being "hidden" from airflow under the seat.
Another upswing to this location is you can use the stock length stator wires(no crimps/extensions needed), as long as you cut the original connector right off at the base. The + and - wires can also be very short since it's literally right on top of the battery...think my output lead is about 3" long. My + and - are wired straight to the battery with ring terminals.
The ZX10 part I got fits nicely, the seat goes on no problem...it's about as thick as the stock coils were. The R1 is considerably higher and probably wouldn't fit here. That and a new Rick's stator, I get 12.8V hot, 100w highbeam and fan on at idle....13 or so with just lowbeam. Above 2000 RPM or so I have 14.4 regardless of load.
Everybody thinks this is crazy, but I make all my electrical crimps with a big pair of channel locks. Diagnonal cutters can cut the metal connector, and the auto store crimpers I've never found to work well. Snap-on has a nice U-channel crimper, but it's also $50 for a uni-task tool...no thanks. Position the nose(fine tooth, before the big coarse tooth cutout) of it square on the "crimp zone" of the connector, and squeeze the piss out of it. You'll never cut it obviously, and I have NEVER had a crimp fail. Plus, it doesn't cut/damage the plastic coatings like crimp tools usually do. In fact once it ripped the copper out of the wire before the crimp let go. Works great, and everybody has channel locks already.:thumbs up:
unk:Everything else has been checked did the crimp mod today and stator checked out at .45ohm per all 3 three wires and the battery is on the battery tender as we speak and seems to be coming back up nicely so I believe I just need to locate a R1 r/r and good to go.
