Wanted: OEM Cams / Help with oil circulation issue

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repmgmt2

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Hi Guys-

My 2001 recently went in for a valve adjustment at 17k and they found all 4 cams were shaved from poor oil circulation. I've changed the oil every spring for 19 years (10w-30) and always keep it topped off. Any idea what causes this so they can fix it?

Also, I need to purchase new or good as new OEM cams, but they are discontinued. Any ideas? Would prefer to avoid tuning or modding with performance cams...

Thanks in advance
 
I'd be a little sceptical of that diagnosis.

Is this from a shop that you have complete faith in?
 
I'd be a little sceptical of that diagnosis.

Is this from a shop that you have complete faith in?

Thanks for the note... I have faith in them. They've been working on all 3 of my bikes for quite awhile and go above and beyond, including searching the internet and making calls just trying to find replacement cams for the last 3 months. I saw the cams myself. Thx again
 
Thanks for the note... I have faith in them. They've been working on all 3 of my bikes for quite awhile and go above and beyond, including searching the internet and making calls just trying to find replacement cams for the last 3 months. I saw the cams myself. Thx again

That's good!

I'd suggest speaking to Sean Morley.... he'll probably chime in next time he's online.

He has quite a good inventory of used parts, and he knows what a good part looks like.
 
Hello V-max world.
New '97 'max owner from Lithuania here. It's my first forum message, and i don't want create new thread for a small advise. So excuse me if i just use this similar one for my problem.

Long story short:
i've got '97 vmax starting and runing great, but rare "puffs" and "bangs" in an airbox when cold or in small acceleration while still not fully warmed up. I Started digging and found that left bank is back-blowing throught the intake. Front cylinder more than back. Checked valve clearance - not ideal but all had gaps. I could put measured valve clearance table here, but probabbly not needed. So proceeded with compression test on all cylinders ( varies 6,8 - 7,2 atm, well, not so much), then leak-down test ( 40 -50 percent, dammit, gonna have some "fun time") ant found that all valves are leaking, and leaking BADLY.


Fast froward, and currently engine is out, heads are off and dismantled. Lots of carbon build-ups, sealing surfaces of valves has lots off brown spots (obviously), both valves and seats has some kind of sharp edges and needs regrinding, but a think it's repairable.

So i've some question for You, friends. You know more than me.
1. So i see two intake valves (those, who were back-blowing the most) are kinda little burned and changed color to light brown. Can i re-use them? If it was a car engine i would just reuse and forget, but these are so small and looks fragile, plus engine revs up 10k RPM... I just need a second opinion of Yours.
4wWC3actWZL1zA5L9
htPybL8o1FAnwzsi6

2. After regrinding all valves and seats i probably will have even less gaps then they are now. And here is a bigest problem: since i'm located in Lithuania - buying and shipping shims gets crazy expensive (all gaskets ant spare parts too). So, can i just grind a valve stem a bit and get it out with the current shims i have? And just lightly grind back side of the shims after that, if fine tuning needed. Or this idea is just a big NO-NO?
3. Does head gaskets varies in thickness? 'cos i just ordered full engine gasket kit from Germany and I didn't saw (anywhere) that it would be specified head gasket thickness.
Thank You for Your minds...
Donatas.
*scuzi for my English ;)
 
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Looks like the exhaust valves seats & valves need cleaning & lapping, do them all, intake & exhaust. If you did that, then reassembled them, pour gas into the intake & exhaust ports to see if they leak at the seats.

I would not grind the shims. Often you can swap shims to get the clearances you need. Even if you need some shims you won't need many, they hold clearances a long time.

Maybe the prior owner used poor oil? What does the air filter look like?
 
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Nothing looks very bad. Air box held few teaspoons of oil and water vapour mixture or smthg like that at the bottom. Air filter looks like new (i believe it' just regular filter not a performance one, like k&n). Oil and coolant i just flushed, doesn't look too bad ,too. Despite tyres ant electrical wiring looks like bike is in good condition. Just minor oil leaks that needs to be repaired.
One more thing: once i took the heads off, noticed that pistons has some serious clearance. I can even see piston ring throught the gap between piston and cylinder at BDC. Is that normal? Cylinders doesn't has any lips at the top or anything. Original honing scuff marks are visible too.
 

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