customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
I know we don't want to give out all our secrets.
But I am curious to know what combinations of parts and riding you have?
I am running all stock save for supertrapp slip ons and have run 11.50's. Hot almost 100 degree day, humid and a slight wind. I've watched my video quite a few times and can say the clutches definitely where slipping, not the tire.
Coming out of the whole around 4000-4500 rpm, 3/4 throttle through first gear and full throttle once 2nd gear and one. Power shift through all gears and shifting around 10,000-10,500. Trying to keep my r's up for the next gear. I haven't really short shifted yet to see if it changes in any of the gears. But it was definitely faster at 10k to 10500 then it was shifting at 9500.
I document my runs pretty decently, but not as good as I did when I really raced before.
My burnouts are usually 8 seconds ( I do an 8 count with the crappy dunlop original tire ). That might change with the new Shinko. I sway it side to side to get more heat into the tire. I also do a quick spin in the water to get the entire tire wet before I start my routine. I know alot of people frown on this saying it will splash water up, but I don't go into the depth of the water, just where it start to get wet and then back a half revolution of the tire. Do a quick blip and roll out a couple feet and do my burnout. I do my burn outs in second gear. First gear spins the motor to easily and is easy to get out of control spin. Second gear gives the tire more revolutions and thus more heat at less expense to the engine having to spin higher.
Once the tire is warm, I usually don't do a dry hop. That is really hard on drive line parts. So lets back up a second back to the burn out. I pull the clutch in and roll to the line. DO NOT come out of the burn out with the clutch engaged. When it catches traction, you shock the drive line and will most likely break something or severely weaken it if you keep your clutch engaged and roll out spinning the tire. It may look cool and you may pull the front wheel and get a cool picture, but its not worth the damage and stress it puts on the driveline. So do you burnout and then disengage the clutch and roll out to the starting line.
SO back to the tire being warm and rolling up to the line. I don't have much experience bracket racing my Vmax. But I have raced many cars and depending on traction limitations, round or other driver, I may or may not screw with you at the line. You also need to know how long they will give you from the time you start you burnout to the time you have to light the first bulb. Also from the first to the second bulb, you need to know that time as well. If I am messing with you, I'll figure out my engine temp, tire temp and I ll coordinate my entry into the first bulb. Usually I will "stall" a little and let you do a burn out first, heat your engine and temp up and then I will do my burnout etc. I may hold back a little and let your engine temp climb and your tire temp drop. I may roll into the first bulb and then roll out and reline myself up again to kill more time. These are all games you play when you start to get serious into bracket racing. Because if I can raise your engine temp 10-20 degrees and drop your tire temp down, you'll be slower and off your dial. Not to mention its a mental game. You start looking at your gauges and waiting looking back for me to come up etc.
So once we get the first bulb lit, I usually as a courtesy will let you light the next bulb if you haven't already done so. From there depending on what line I have picked to run down, I will watch my distance from you , usually as close to the center line as possible. If I am faster, I ll scrub some et and mph off by moving outside my line. I may chop my throttle for a nanosecond, of if I am really blowing by, I ll tap my brake. A lot of this will depend on where you are and how fast or close we are in dial in times. If we are close, I may or may not choose the outer line. If you are faster and the outer line has been hooking up for me, I ll choose that. I choose my lines dependent on many variables. But the faster people then me, I want you farther away from me. Its harder to tell where someone is at the farther they are from you. Now this can be a problem when your sandbagging or the other guy is sandbagging. Some tracks will DQ you if you sand bag as well. So its good to know the track and what they will and wont let go.
A quick note on RT ( reaction times ). If your running too fast, honestly, eat something heavy, go grab that cheese burger or chilli dog. If your slow, grab a sugar filled candy. It will bring you up and down slightly. I ve used this many many times for years and sometimes it helps and sometimes my nerves and mental state just weren't there enough to try and "fix" my reaction time.
Now alot of this is advanced tricks and tips. These are assuming this isn't your first time down the track and that your not just out trying to get the best et out of your bike to see how "fast" it is. These mostly apply to people who are bracket racing.
Maybe we should do a quick primer on how to take your bike to the track for the first time?
If so I ll do a quick write up on that if you guys are interested. And I am sure there are alot of guys here that have more experience then me on a Vmax at the track that can give some better shift , engine etc techniques and numbers to look at.
Todd
But I am curious to know what combinations of parts and riding you have?
I am running all stock save for supertrapp slip ons and have run 11.50's. Hot almost 100 degree day, humid and a slight wind. I've watched my video quite a few times and can say the clutches definitely where slipping, not the tire.
Coming out of the whole around 4000-4500 rpm, 3/4 throttle through first gear and full throttle once 2nd gear and one. Power shift through all gears and shifting around 10,000-10,500. Trying to keep my r's up for the next gear. I haven't really short shifted yet to see if it changes in any of the gears. But it was definitely faster at 10k to 10500 then it was shifting at 9500.
I document my runs pretty decently, but not as good as I did when I really raced before.
My burnouts are usually 8 seconds ( I do an 8 count with the crappy dunlop original tire ). That might change with the new Shinko. I sway it side to side to get more heat into the tire. I also do a quick spin in the water to get the entire tire wet before I start my routine. I know alot of people frown on this saying it will splash water up, but I don't go into the depth of the water, just where it start to get wet and then back a half revolution of the tire. Do a quick blip and roll out a couple feet and do my burnout. I do my burn outs in second gear. First gear spins the motor to easily and is easy to get out of control spin. Second gear gives the tire more revolutions and thus more heat at less expense to the engine having to spin higher.
Once the tire is warm, I usually don't do a dry hop. That is really hard on drive line parts. So lets back up a second back to the burn out. I pull the clutch in and roll to the line. DO NOT come out of the burn out with the clutch engaged. When it catches traction, you shock the drive line and will most likely break something or severely weaken it if you keep your clutch engaged and roll out spinning the tire. It may look cool and you may pull the front wheel and get a cool picture, but its not worth the damage and stress it puts on the driveline. So do you burnout and then disengage the clutch and roll out to the starting line.
SO back to the tire being warm and rolling up to the line. I don't have much experience bracket racing my Vmax. But I have raced many cars and depending on traction limitations, round or other driver, I may or may not screw with you at the line. You also need to know how long they will give you from the time you start you burnout to the time you have to light the first bulb. Also from the first to the second bulb, you need to know that time as well. If I am messing with you, I'll figure out my engine temp, tire temp and I ll coordinate my entry into the first bulb. Usually I will "stall" a little and let you do a burn out first, heat your engine and temp up and then I will do my burnout etc. I may hold back a little and let your engine temp climb and your tire temp drop. I may roll into the first bulb and then roll out and reline myself up again to kill more time. These are all games you play when you start to get serious into bracket racing. Because if I can raise your engine temp 10-20 degrees and drop your tire temp down, you'll be slower and off your dial. Not to mention its a mental game. You start looking at your gauges and waiting looking back for me to come up etc.
So once we get the first bulb lit, I usually as a courtesy will let you light the next bulb if you haven't already done so. From there depending on what line I have picked to run down, I will watch my distance from you , usually as close to the center line as possible. If I am faster, I ll scrub some et and mph off by moving outside my line. I may chop my throttle for a nanosecond, of if I am really blowing by, I ll tap my brake. A lot of this will depend on where you are and how fast or close we are in dial in times. If we are close, I may or may not choose the outer line. If you are faster and the outer line has been hooking up for me, I ll choose that. I choose my lines dependent on many variables. But the faster people then me, I want you farther away from me. Its harder to tell where someone is at the farther they are from you. Now this can be a problem when your sandbagging or the other guy is sandbagging. Some tracks will DQ you if you sand bag as well. So its good to know the track and what they will and wont let go.
A quick note on RT ( reaction times ). If your running too fast, honestly, eat something heavy, go grab that cheese burger or chilli dog. If your slow, grab a sugar filled candy. It will bring you up and down slightly. I ve used this many many times for years and sometimes it helps and sometimes my nerves and mental state just weren't there enough to try and "fix" my reaction time.
Now alot of this is advanced tricks and tips. These are assuming this isn't your first time down the track and that your not just out trying to get the best et out of your bike to see how "fast" it is. These mostly apply to people who are bracket racing.
Maybe we should do a quick primer on how to take your bike to the track for the first time?
If so I ll do a quick write up on that if you guys are interested. And I am sure there are alot of guys here that have more experience then me on a Vmax at the track that can give some better shift , engine etc techniques and numbers to look at.
Todd
