Braided Brake lines

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D-Max2012

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Quick question..
When you start looking to replace your old brake lines to braided ones..
Are you looking to replace just the front wheel? or, does the clutch line and rear need to be addresses also?
 
If I replaced the front brake line, I'd do the clutch line at the same time just because.
 
Each part can be done on it's own though many do all of the lines as part of an upgrade as well as a cosmetic benefit. I have a few used lines as well as new stuff.
 
Sean.. I didn't forget about this.
Trying to get some finances in order over here 1st..
 
No problem at all. Get what you can when you can. Each system is indivudally run so you don't have to buy multiple positions if you don't want to (or need to spread it out).
 
I did mine like Tim, Front brakes and clutch and then the rear brake when I did a major upgrade.
For the front brakes I went with 2 lines from the caliper to the master cylinder foregoing the two line to the factory junction under the headlight and then the one from the junction to the master cylinder; less places a leak could happen or air to get into the system was my thinking.
 
I did mine the same way. 2 long lines directly to calipers from master. Used one of those big floor mounted vacuum bleeders and did the job in an hour..
 
Ive always been told that the 2 lines are easier to bleed, and the 1 line that splits, like the factory line, can be a B*tch to bleed some times.
 
Anyone have pics of their setup? Id like to see the differences.
 
Are you guys talking about something like this, that bypasses the stock housing under the headlight??
https://www.powersportsplace.com/pa...king-systems&gclid=CMis96Kq580CFQ9ZhgodeiALDg
That appears to be a 3 line setup similar to OEM. 1 line from the master to the splitter. 2 lines from the splitter down to calipers.

Theses guys are talking about a 2 line setup. You have 2 lines that attach direct from the caliper to the master cylinder.

I've heard that us the most efficient setup.

As Fred mentioned, I prefer a setup that jumps over the front fender. Many sport bikes have it. 1 line from the master to the first caliper. Double banjo at the caliper and thr second line jumps over the fender. It looks cleaner up at the handlebars IMO.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Theses guys are talking about a 2 line setup. You have 2 lines that attach direct from the caliper to the master cylinder.

I've seen something like that on a non-vmax.. Wouldn't you need a longer mounting bolt to accommodate two couplings?
 
i have the front brake done,but is there any major benefit in doing the clutch or even the rear brake?
wont rear brake turn to sensitive and lock the wheel?
 
No major benefit. Unless your existing lines are getting old I'd save the money for something more useful.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
i have the front brake done,but is there any major benefit in doing the clutch or even the rear brake?
wont rear brake turn to sensitive and lock the wheel?

I did not find it more sensitive even when adding HH pads to the original brake setup with larger rotor(298mm). I now run a R1 dual piston caliper on a 282 mm rotor with HH pads on a braided line, but I have a 200 width radial on the back now. I've ever only locked it up when I was testing the limit of braking grip and I could push pretty hard before it locked up.
 
Just remember gang, depending on which clutch line kit you get, most of the kits have a super small adapter orifice that sits between the line and OEM pipe coming up from the master cylinder, this orifice is round and is used for a good seal between fittings. I could not find the orifice at 1st, its kinda small.
 
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