Cleaning and Synch'ing Carbs

[zippo6]

Ok, so my Carbtune Pro has arrived and I've finally got time to go at the carbs....

I'll preface with the following statement: I've never done this before and know nothing more that what I have researched on this forum and on the net. However I feel confident enough that I'm not 'afraid' to try.

Here is my thought process:
I've never used a carbtune before, but it seems simple enough. So rather than remove the carbs and clean them THEN sync, I intend to sync them first. Besides, I want a baseline to see if the carbs are, in fact, the cause of my shitty performance when the bike is hot and at a low idle.

Once I get them synched I'll take her for a ride and see what improvements it has made. Since I have no faith in what maintence the PO did (aside from changing oil), I have no idea if the carbs have ever been cleaned or synched (it's an '02). Then I'll yank the carbs off and clean them following the shotgun method, order parts if neccesary, put 'em back on and synch again.

With any luck, this will resolve the @idle issue that seems to be getting worse.... or perhaps I'm riding the bike harder... who knows...

Anyway, it is THIS FORUM AND ALL YOU GUYS (special attention to Mark Milne for the How-To's!!!) that are making it possible for guys like me to take this stuff on! Otherwise, I'd be taking the bike to the stealership and we all know how that would end up.... :bang head:

 

[gamorg02]

Ok, so my Carbtune Pro has arrived and I've finally got time to go at the carbs....

I'll preface with the following statement: I've never done this before and know nothing more that what I have researched on this forum and on the net. However I feel confident enough that I'm not 'afraid' to try.

Here is my thought process:
I've never used a carbtune before, but it seems simple enough. So rather than remove the carbs and clean them THEN sync, I intend to sync them first. Besides, I want a baseline to see if the carbs are, in fact, the cause of my shitty performance when the bike is hot and at a low idle.

Once I get them synched I'll take her for a ride and see what improvements it has made. Since I have no faith in what maintence the PO did (aside from changing oil), I have no idea if the carbs have ever been cleaned or synched (it's an '02). Then I'll yank the carbs off and clean them following the shotgun method, order parts if neccesary, put 'em back on and synch again.

With any luck, this will resolve the @idle issue that seems to be getting worse.... or perhaps I'm riding the bike harder... who knows...

Anyway, it is THIS FORUM AND ALL YOU GUYS (special attention to Mark Milne for the How-To's!!!) that are making it possible for guys like me to take this stuff on! Otherwise, I'd be taking the bike to the stealership and we all know how that would end up.... :bang head:

i assume you've 'seafoamed' and yes i just turned that into a verb.

 

[zippo6]

i assume you've 'seafoamed' and yes i just turned that into a verb.

LMAO! Gotta love the English language!
I've got one can through her now and have not seen any improvement. Now, the Engine Ice does seem to have lowered my operating temp!!

 

[[email protected]]

Ya might be able to get away with just doing the shotgun. You don't need to remove the carbs for that. You might want to buy some screws for the diaphragm covers prior to starting. The stock ones have a tendency to be a PIA. 5mm x .8 x 14mm (12 works too, just a few threads short).

If you do remove the carbs and break em open to clean the jet blocks you might want to do the same for the fuel bowl screws. 5mm x .8mm x 12mm. Pay attention to the throttle junction block and put it back together the same way. Don't put grease or oil in there either.

 

[zippo6]

Ya might be able to get away with just doing the shotgun. You don't need to remove the carbs for that. You might want to buy some screws for the diaphragm covers prior to starting. The stock ones have a tendency to be a PIA. 5mm x .8 x 14mm (12 works too, just a few threads short).

If you do remove the carbs and break em open to clean the jet blocks you might want to do the same for the fuel bowl screws. 5mm x .8mm x 12mm. Pay attention to the throttle junction block and put it back together the same way. Don't put grease or oil in there either.

Good point! I'll try that first before actually removing them. I do suspect that I've got some partially clogged jets.
Thanks for the tip on the screws too, I would have forgot about those!

 

[zippo6]

Ok, so I'm done for now and do notice am improvement, so that's good.
(oh, and I forgot to snap an 'After' picture.... sorry)

- The first picture is the Carbtune on choke @ 2K RPM
- The second is once the bike was warmed up and idling @ 1K RPM (I increased it to about 1.2K to tune) As you can see, carbs 1&2 are close and 3&4 are close, so I really only had to tune the 2 banks to one another.... but I played anyway :biglaugh:
- The third picture is of the carb for cylinder #1. It is the only one that looks 'wet'. I looked inside the breather box and I think it's actually filter oil, should I be concerned? Before tuning I tightened all the boots to make sure, they all tightened some, connection from carb 2 to air box the most.

My outcome? Bike seems to be running smoother and the symptoms of a crappy idle when hot appear to be reduced. I also installed the 'Y' for the top of the breather box that Sean Morley was kind enough to send me, and then took the bike out for a run. I noticed that at about 4K RPM when I cracked on it, it hesitated, then went. It's never done this before so I removed the 'Y' and went out again. No hesitation this time, so the 'Y' is staying off :clapping: (It was off when I tuned the carbs)

All feedback welcome!!

 

[gamorg02]

hey shane,

your jetting may have changed for the Y being removed. if it runs better w/out it, keep it that way

the oil can come up from the puke hose. keep your oil level below the 2nd line on the eye glass. that will help

 

[zippo6]

hey shane,

your jetting may have changed for the Y being removed. if it runs better w/out it, keep it that way

the oil can come up from the puke hose. keep your oil level below the 2nd line on the eye glass. that will help

There are lines on the site glass? lol
*goes to look*

 

[gamorg02]

There are lines on the site glass? lol
*goes to look*

well they're not on the glass, they're to the right of the glass on the oil pan. you'll see 'em.

i've been filling up to the top line. 3.4 quarts. always. i burn a little bit of oil and once my oil light starts coming on not under like 90% throttle or above i change the oil. usually 1200 - 1500 miles