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gamorg02

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Ok, so strangely enough i've never actually done a coolant flush on any vehicle i've owned. I want to do one on my 03 max b/c i think its never been done (5/6 years)...

When i first got the bike, it seems like it never really got 'warm' enough (i know, a very odd complaint) and the thermostat gauge never really got close to the middle, usually well below it. So i figured i'd do the coolant. Also could be that i got it in october and hadn't riden it above probably 50 degrees out.


so my question is this. what coolant do I use on the bike? I have the haynes manual and it looks pretty easy as a read thru. drain it, flush it, fill it back up.

also with what coolant, what mixture do you use? suggested on the bottle for that coolant? or always 50/50 or...?

Thanks in advance guys...
 
I use 50/50 of distilled water and Toyota Factory Red.
 
I use 50/50 of distilled water and Toyota Factory Red.

cool thanks for the info. where do u get it? toyota stealership?

also, is it anything like synthenic vs normal oil? like you can't switch back and forth between certain kinds easily?
 
Yep, dealership. No worries on mixing old versus new. ONce I drain the old stuff I pour some distilled down the coolant manifold to clean the system up. This stuff is made for aluminum engines and even when changing looks almost new.
 
Doh!, so the prestone green I just put in needs to be flushed and replaced.
 
Also make sure you keep the coolant concentration as low as you can (considering your lowest temperature), as the most efficient coolant liquid is actually water.

What I mean is, if your lowest temperature is going to be about 25F, you'll have better cooling by keeping the water/coolant ratio to what protects you down to 25F, for example 70/30.
Making it 50/50 could protect you against freeze down to -30F, but there would be no point and your system would not cool as efficiently in hot weather.
 
I couldn't find anywhere that stated Prestone is silicate free so I went with the Honda. It was about twice the cost but worth the peace of mind.
 
I couldn't find anywhere that stated Prestone is silicate free so I went with the Honda. It was about twice the cost but worth the peace of mind.

This is from thier site: http://www.prestone.com/carcare/faq.php

Q. Does Prestone? Antifreeze/Coolant contain phosphates?
A. Some European automobile manufacturers request that a phosphate-free antifreeze be used in their vehicles. This issue is related to the extremely high mineral content of the water in Europe. If you were to mix an antifreeze that contained phosphates with the type of water they have in Europe, it may produce deposits that can settle in the cooling system and promote corrosion. However, in North America we do not have this type of water problem. Typical North American coolants have contained phosphates (which is part of the corrosion inhibitor package) for many years. Therefore, the question of phosphates is a non-issue here in North America. Prestone? Antifreeze/Coolant is completely safe for use in both foreign and domestic vehicles.

For those consumers who would feel more comfortable using a phosphate-free antifreeze, our Prestone? Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant is phosphate, silicate, and borate free. This coolant uses a special chemistry and technology that extends the life of the corrosion inhibitor package so that it lasts for five years or 150,000 miles (whichever comes first), and is safe for all cars and light trucks (old or new).

Prestone? Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant has been approved by General Motors under their DEX-COOL? specifications and is compatible with other DEX-COOL? approved coolants.

* DEX-COOL? is a registered trademark of General Motors Corporation.
 
Yes, I read this also but it does not talk about silicates or borates in the regular Prestone. The Extended Life was similar in price to the Honda or Toyota. So I went with an anti-freeze designed for aluminum high rpm engines rather than a multi-use. But that's just me. Use what you're comfortable with. I do use Prestone in my truck & car.
 
Yes, I read this also but it does not talk about silicates or borates in the regular Prestone. The Extended Life was similar in price to the Honda or Toyota. So I went with an anti-freeze designed for aluminum high rpm engines rather than a multi-use. But that's just me. Use what you're comfortable with. I do use Prestone in my truck & car.

No worries, our temps up here run in the 90's during summer and -60's in the winter. Haven't had any problems with it. My fault for not specifying the particular prestone.
 
readin my haynes and its talking about the cylinder jacket drain plug and those need to come off to do this..

it also says to replace them when doing this.. is that reallynecessary? my max only has like 2k mile son it but its been sitting for a while so i want to do it and have all fresh fluids..

they're like $4-$5 apiece and i want to do it this weekend so can't really wait for shipping...

thanks guys
 
readin my haynes and its talking about the cylinder jacket drain plug and those need to come off to do this..

it also says to replace them when doing this.. is that reallynecessary? my max only has like 2k mile son it but its been sitting for a while so i want to do it and have all fresh fluids..

they're like $4-$5 apiece and i want to do it this weekend so can't really wait for shipping...

thanks guys
I drained the coolant out without replacing the plugs, just feel them, if the rubber is still 'live' you're good to go. If for some reason you did develop a leak it should be easy to pop the old one out, replace with new and only lose a couple tablespoons of coolant in the process. Motor cold....of course.
 
I drained the coolant out without replacing the plugs, just feel them, if the rubber is still 'live' you're good to go. If for some reason you did develop a leak it should be easy to pop the old one out, replace with new and only lose a couple tablespoons of coolant in the process. Motor cold....of course.


thanks danny... good to know... and yea i did read that, u wanna do it all w/the engine cool.. scalding water doesn't sound fun
 
I've always ran plain jane antifreeze in everything I own. After tearing apart my CR5 water pump and finding that the pump shaft was severely worn where it contacts the seals and that the outermost seal was leaking fluid in toward the engine (but not getting in thanks to a relief port and double seal design) I am wondering if the silicates in my traditional antifreeze may have played a role in this issue.

I am no chemist and I don't really know the differences between all the different coolants, but I hear silicates are bad for aluminum. I also hear that it is good to have HOAT in the formula. Whatever the hell that means:ummm:

I don't want to pay $20 for toyota coolant, or honda, or yamaha. So, I did a little research and found this: http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/zerex/antifreeze/105

And some discussion on it here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1586489

So, I figured it can't hurt to try to it out if I can find it. Turns out that the local NAPA has it in stock and its cheap! $9.99 a gallon.
 

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