Well, finally I was able to test the Max without avail. Still having the same problem, the engine starts ok, idles ok while warming up and getting up to running condition. Onces it gets there and the temperature begins to rise, the engine begins to run rough until revs get below 1,000 and finally dies. This happens before the fan kicks in.
Checked the voltage while running ok and it is at 14.7 volts. Once the engine begins to get rough, voltage needle begins to flicker. When the fan kicks in, voltage drops to 13.6 volts but flickering until the engine dies.
I really thought idle would fix with the "shotgun cleaning". Any more ideas? Tomorrow I will re-check all connectors that I had to disconnect when replacing the battery, I doubt any bad connection but will check. I don't ride the bike much, will a full throttle ride on the highway help ?
Things done during the past 2 months, before this problem:
Changed battery
Changed throttle cables (push & pull)
Installed trickle charger cables and charger
Changed clutch and brake masters & levers to Kawi ZX14
Reinstalled clutch & brake master switches (working ok)
Bleeding front brake lines
Bleeding clutch line
Just reviewed this entire thread. My thoughts -
- Can't imagine that any of your "things done" could be responsible for your current problem.
- The voltage when warmed up, 13.6, should be more than enough to keep the bike running at idle.
- I would re-visit that Shotgun cleaning procedure, this time making sure to remove the idle screws, thereby allowing complete cleaning of the orifices and needle seats, washers and o-rings. To remove the screws, if they won't come out with spray, try this(worked for me) - using a tight fitting piece of rubber tube inserted in the top idle port, blow
using lung power to dislodge the screw, making sure it doesn't fly out completely, using your finger over the side port or a helper with a rag.
Another method, if the above fails, is to use a drinking straw (or equivalent piece of hose), inserted in the side port and over the head of the screw, to hopefully help it release, as you blow from the top. Lung power may not even be needed, if the straw or hose is a tight fit, and you are able to turn it c.c.w. while pulling slightly. The straw method was first mentioned by a late forum member,
Roy Carter - R.I.P.
- Did you change the fuel filter yet? Or drained each carb bowl to check for debris in the gasoline? Also, if this is a fuel starvation issue, caused by a poor performing pump (when hot), you could try this - with the bike "cold" (or as cold as it gets in Panama) turn the ignition on, listen for the clicks as the pump fills the bowls. Don't start the bike. Then drain each bowl into a measured cup, noting the volumes of each. This should also be a very rough check of proper float setting. Then close each drain, start the bike, let it get to the point where it stumbles and dies. Then check each bowl for gas content, of course
without first turning on the ignition.
- Probably also wouldn't hurt to clean and re-gap each spark plug.
Cheers!
