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motomick76

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Ponca City, OK
:bang head::bang head:

I have been adjusting the float levels and trying to get my carbs right for over a week now. I have had the carbs off close to a dozen times, and I am hitting the wall. Took bike for test run and sputters and spits from 2000 on up. I suspect the float levels. Friday I checked and 3 and 4 were at 16 mm. 1 and 2 were at 20mm. I readjusted 1 and 2 and it still was at 20mm yesterday. No change. Now I check 3 and 4, the fuel pump runs longer and I put the tube next to the carb and the fuel level doesnt even reach the bottom diaphram screw.

WHO can I call or IM to resolve this issue? I have been tinkering with bikes for 15 years and this one is beating me.

Sorry, I have to vent. :bang head::bang head:
 
Do I just need to buy parts, start spending money? I would like to fingdroot of problem before I spend money.
 
What gives with this forum? I PM Sean last night about some of my problems. I have spent all week and weekend working on this bike, in my garage. Is somebody gonna be able to help me, or do i need to find other sources? There is not much riding time in Minnesota, and it frustrates me to see it go to waste.

Just be honest.

motomick76
 
How do you know if the floats are moving freely with the covers on? Are you testing float level with an external tank? Carbs shouldn't even go back on the bike until floats are checked on the bench. Blow into each carb vent...shouldn't hold vacuum. Turn upside down and do the same.
 
Is there anybody I can call or IM? I have done the dry bench adjustment as indicated by this forum. I have a previous post of my experiences. Then I assemble and check wet as indicated with clear hose by this forum.
 
Sorry, I'm not the carb expert that others are on this forum. I followed the cleaning and adjusting threads on this forum by naughtyG and I had no problems.

But I would agree with Maleko89's question on anything sticking and looking closely.

Did you change the sizes of the jets? If so, when I jetted my carbs, I followed the tuning procedure on the Vmax Outlaw website and mine pulls great from any rpm.
 
prolly a stupid question but did you sync em up b4 yer test ride??
 
Motomick76,
Can you provide a little more info. How was the engine running prior to tearing into the carbs? Did you happen to inspect the needle value tips when they were out ?
 
K. I re-installed the vboost to sync the carbs because I do not have the magic Weber, but I have a set of four Honda vacuum gauges. I have been trying to get float levels right, but I cannot get 1 and 2. No matter where I adjust the float, when I do the wet test with clear tube, 1 and 2 end up at 20mm. 3 and 4 are perfect at 16mm. The bike is perfectly level as it is on hydraulic lift, and check with a bubble level.

I know my bike runs like crap because 1 and 2 are too lean. It pops and bangs from 2k on up as indicated by the Outlaw website. I have been spending all my time reading those articles too as well as the ones here.

My problem is why is my float level not changing (1 and 2) when I take it apart, adjust the tabs, reassemble, put on bike, and is 20mm? Why is the level not changing?

And yes, I warmed up the bike to operating temp and synced carbs. After each adjustment I blip throttle to make sure adjustments are right. I also pre-calibrate the gauges before I sync the carbs.
 
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Yes, I disassembled the slides and needles to insure the right amount of shims were installed on the needle valves as it is a stage 7 with K & N's.

The first time I disassembled a week ago there was a 190 jet in PJA1. I posted earlier as to see how sharp you guys were here. I changed it to the original 90. Why would someone want to change the PJA1 to 190? Are there other issues I am not seeing that was covered up by installing a 190 jet? The main is a 175, and the needle was at clip #4. Every time I assemble I check operation of slide diaphragms for smooth and quick operation and to insure no binding with needle jet.
 
OK, a 20 mm level indicates the gas level is too low in the bowl. Did you cycle the key on & off several times to make sure the fuel pump has filled ALL the bowls to the point where the float / needle valve has shut the flow of gas off and the fuel pump stops clicking? Check the fuel filter to see if it's plugged ??

Are you checking float levels with the engine running or off ?
 
Yes I cycled ignition, and bike is not running. I keep screw open and cycle ignition, sometimes several times. Get the same result.
 
I'm going to ask a dumb question, not to insult you but because I've made some silly mistakes myself in the past.

Are you sure you're adjusting the floats to carbs 1 & 2? And you have the carb in the right orientation when you make the adjustment?

When you made the initial setting you used the 1.125" height?
 
Pulled fuel filter apart, and feels 'heavy' for a filter. I have a Napa Gold 3011 fuel filter laying around, or does i need a special one since it is a pressurized system?
 
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If you feel that the floats are a problem quit wasting time by putting the carbs back together till you know they are right.

If you have two that are not changing no matter what you do, why not open up a carb that seems right and start swapping parts one at a time and keep checking wet levels on the bench to see if you can get it right. Rig up an external fuel source and dont put the carb halves together, leave the rack split. It will save time in this process.

I cant think of anything that would keep the bowl from filling up? A bad needle, seat, or leaky floats are going to give too much fuel. Maybe an internal blockage or the rubber lines that feed the carbs. If it was a filter issue i would think all four would be affected, not just two. Are you getting proper flow from the fuel inlet to the bowl? Are the vent lines clear on the offending carbs? Kinda hard for the fuel to go into the bowl if the bowl doesnt vent. You can teat this without pulling the rack, just pull the hoses while doing a wet check.
 

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